When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just an FYI the 5.0L engine (don't know about the 4.2) is designed with an oil extraction tube under the oil fill cap. It was designed to end at the lowest point in the pan and they even have a Jaguar vacuum pump unit to extract the oil . I saw the dealer using it and it's a slick setup. Same with the fill process they just pump in less then 8 quarts and start it up and after system is checked top off. I uses a manual 9 quart vacuum extractor which I just stick a tube down the dipstick tube on my other vehicles.
Thanks - I always wondered what that thing under the fill cap was!
I, too, use a chain store: Pep Boys stocks Castrol Edge. I bring in a filter; they charge me for the oil plus $30 to do the change. Could DIY cheaper but not worth the hassle for me these days (and they let you come into the bay and watch, if you want).
Two questions:
- I always buy a Beck-Arnley filter because I've heard they're who has the contract to manufacture the original filters Jag actually uses. Has anyone heard this?
- after doing some research, I'm using: Castrol Edge Extended Life, 0W-20. Yes? No?
A single advantage to the dealership, is if you have a mechanic familiar with your car, they can spot things while under there that an oil change guy will miss.
The last time I was under my 944, for something else, I noticed the bolt and nut holding the pivot for the clutch fork had backed out, allowing the pivot rod to start slipping out of the clutch housing. A quick hit with a blunt object, and re-tighten of the bolt, then the nut, saved being stranded later. (What does puzzle me is why this came loose in the first place, I'll have to keep an eye on it.)
Your service department will vary, my local dealer has NO ONE that understands older Porsches, I do not recommend bringing anything pre 1999 there.
I agree with you. I only bring my Jag to the dealer precisely because I want a more experienced set of eyes looking at my car. Definitely worth my time and money to go there.
I'd like to change the oil and filter myself. I'll be happy to purchase a fluid extractor. Can anyone tell me what to do about resetting the service mode so the service is up to date? The car currently has 10,500 miles on it, and I assume it will be telling me to provide service when I reach 15,000. One dealer quoted $549.95 for first oil change another quoted me $ 350.00.
I'd like to change the oil and filter myself. I'll be happy to purchase a fluid extractor. Can anyone tell me what to do about resetting the service mode so the service is up to date? The car currently has 10,500 miles on it, and I assume it will be telling me to provide service when I reach 15,000. One dealer quoted $549.95 for first oil change another quoted me $ 350.00.
Go look on line as there are many oil extractors. Some are hand pump vacuum type and others are electric pumps. Make sure you get one that holds at least 8-9 quarts of oil. As for your dealer I assume he was wearing a mask when he told you the price. Anyone on this form hasn't paid more then $200 for the service so I would challenge them about their price. Most have seen between $125-$200 for the change. Also if you bought the car new and this is your 1st oil change I was under the impression that it would be done under the warranty .
I haven't read this entire thread, but I had my oil on my 2010 XK changed a few months ago after 2 years sitting in my garage with maybe 2000 miles driven. I had a coupon for $50 so the total was $100 out the door. Any kind of Jaguar service is usually taking you over the coals. I still have 3 years of warranty left. So far my glove box door damper was fixed after paying $3600 for the warranty.. Who is ahead? I'll leave it for you to guess??
2,4,6 just an FYI the 5.0L engine (don't know about the 4.2) is designed with an oil extraction tube under the oil fill cap. It was designed to end at the lowest point in the pan and they even have a Jaguar vacuum pump unit to extract the oil . I saw the dealer using it and it's a slick setup. Same with the fill process they just pump in less then 8 quarts and start it up and after system is checked top off. I uses a manual 9 quart vacuum extractor which I just stick a tube down the dipstick tube on my other vehicles.
In Britain, most Jaguar dealers no longer use the suction tube, but drain oil properly via the sump plug.
There have been instances of oil not being fully extracted by the suction method, causing an overfill which can have disastrous consequences.
In Britain, most Jaguar dealers no longer use the suction tube, but drain oil properly via the sump plug.
There have been instances of oil not being fully extracted by the suction method, causing an overfill which can have disastrous consequences.
If a tech. doesn't preform the process correctly then I would have a problem with the dealer. Also using the extraction method provides better results in removal of all of the oil as it is measured during the process. I usually watch them as they do it and the whole process is pretty slick. I have a manual vacuum extractor that I use on my other 3 vehicles and don't think I will ever remove a drain plug again.
Just an FYI on oil, and the Castrol Professional E w/FST, the only other oil out there with the titanium package that Castrol uses, is Phillips and is used in the Kendall GT-1 w/Liquid Titanium. (semi and full synthetic stocks)
If a tech. doesn't preform the process correctly then I would have a problem with the dealer. Also using the extraction method provides better results in removal of all of the oil as it is measured during the process. I usually watch them as they do it and the whole process is pretty slick. I have a manual vacuum extractor that I use on my other 3 vehicles and don't think I will ever remove a drain plug again.
Unfortunately, the vacuum extraction method does not remove the sludge which accumulates in an engine, especially with the current extended service intervals. It is far better to drain the hot oil via the sump plug, leaving a few minutes, while attending to other items, after the main flow has ceased, for the dregs to also drain. Why would measuring the oil drained, or extracted, be of any use? Oil loss or consumption would be noticed by the need to top up between changes, and the issue of diesels (which I understand are not popular in the U.S.) suffering rising oil levels owing to fuel contaminating the oil, would also be noticed via the dipstick, or OBC.
Unfortunately, the vacuum extraction method does not remove the sludge which accumulates in an engine, especially with the current extended service intervals. It is far better to drain the hot oil via the sump plug, leaving a few minutes, while attending to other items, after the main flow has ceased, for the dregs to also drain. Why would measuring the oil drained, or extracted, be of any use? Oil loss or consumption would be noticed by the need to top up between changes, and the issue of diesels (which I understand are not popular in the U.S.) suffering rising oil levels owing to fuel contaminating the oil, would also be noticed via the dipstick, or OBC.
Considering I do oil changes every 5000 miles and in the past have done comparisons of extraction vs. drain plug I see no difference . Whether you chose to drain vs extract seems to be a personal choice as there is not creditable data pitting one vs the other. If you want to verify if there is sludge then I suggest you extract the oil and then remove the oil pan and see what is left. You also never get all of the oil out of an engine during an oil change but the detergent of the new oil takes care of that. Measurement only verifies quantity of oil from last changed used.
- I always buy a Beck-Arnley filter because I've heard they're who has the contract to manufacture the original filters Jag actually uses. Has anyone heard this?
I can't confirm if B-A is Jags OEM, but Beck Arnley is at the top of my list so far. Compared to Wix and Hasting (Actually Hastings is identical to B-A only with cheaper packaging.)
Doubt I'll ever pay Jaguars price on an OEM for comparison, but any of you do it your-selfers that do buy OEM might take a quick comparison to this image for markings and such. Would be interesting to know...
I can't confirm if B-A is Jags OEM, but Beck Arnley is at the top of my list so far. Compared to Wix and Hasting (Actually Hastings is identical to B-A only with cheaper packaging.)
Doubt I'll ever pay Jaguars price on an OEM for comparison, but any of you do it your-selfers that do buy OEM might take a quick comparison to this image for markings and such. Would be interesting to know...
Vince
B-A does not make parts, they rebrand parts. Also notice the pleat count in your pic is greater in the Hastings. (more media) Mann and Mahle are the general providers for filters to Jaguar.
B-A does not make parts, they rebrand parts. Also notice the pleat count in your pic is greater in the Hastings. (more media) Mann and Mahle are the general providers for filters to Jaguar.
Good to know, thanks!
They will be my next 2500k mile purchase.
I plan to walk thorough each brand for comparisons. Kinda a poor mans evaluation, I know, but these things always have me curious. At present, I keep the "winner" (subjective of course) new in the box to compare to my next order. The looser goes on the car for 2500K miles, and I buy the next brand.
To reiterate, I am not equipped to do a scientific eval of products, but I like to view my options from a common sense point of view.
So far, I'm on to my third name brand, and havin' fun with taking a look at them.
Mann or Mahle are my next obvious choice, so again thanks!
Vince
Good to know, thanks!
They will be my next 2500k mile purchase.
I plan to walk thorough each brand for comparisons. Kinda a poor mans evaluation, I know, but these things always have me curious. At present, I keep the "winner" (subjective of course) new in the box to compare to my next order. The looser goes on the car for 2500K miles, and I buy the next brand.
To reiterate, I am not equipped to do a scientific eval of products, but I like to view my options from a common sense point of view.
So far, I'm on to my third name brand, and havin' fun with taking a look at them.
Mann or Mahle are my next obvious choice, so again thanks!
Vince
This may be a little off-topic, but the big thing to keep in mind when it comes to spin-on oil filters, is not just the filter media, but the bypass. Jaguar spec is 1 bar (14 psi) differential, and many cheaper filters can bypass oil with as little 6~8 psi differential. Many do not understand that if you use a filter with a poorly designed bypass, you can actually starve the engine for oil. This is why the trend has been to return to a cartridge style filter, with the bypass part of the housing itself. That way, the manufacturer can assure the proper design, and bypass flow.
Box.... The 5.0l filter is a top mount cylinder, no bypass built into the filter itself. Lack of media particulate testing is why I consider my comparisons subjective.
Box.... The 5.0l filter is a top mount cylinder, no bypass built into the filter itself. Lack of media particulate testing is why I consider my comparisons subjective.
V
I'm aware that the 5L is a cartridge style. Also be mindful though, some oil will bypass the filter media when the pressure differential is above 1 bar of pressure. It's just the way it works. As far as filtering capability, you won't find a cartridge that will trap particulates smaller than about 20 microns. Soot and ash as well as smaller dirt will certainly pass-through any filter.
For the 5L, change oil at regular intervals about half of the extended life interval, and use either the Castrol Pro E w/FST or the Kendall GT-1 w/Liquid Titanium, (both of these are proven to reduce wear and is the exact same additive package) or an additive like BG's MOA.
