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got the bushings pressed into the radius arm today, and one unfortunately cracked. so welding it up tonight will post pictures of the finished product tomorrow
Ran all the fuel lines, really happy with how they turned out, ran the brake lines using mechanics wire to test first and bought the lines today, for those who redid the brakes what diameter tubing was used?
made the exhaust sit up much higher, did not like the droopiness of it. Unfortunately I will have to run the car with only one center muffler and no cats. no time at the moment to sort out a proper exhaust but it will sound really good.
Summit racing is really getting on my nerves. Ordered parts on monday, they didnt process till thursday and no shipping info was given... The package better come before friday or im screwed.
tomorrow i run the brake lines and then start on some wiring for the brakes and other things
maybe not manual brakes any more, i went to bleed the system and i couldn't get any pedal pressure. I bench bled the master about 3 times and still nothing every time. so im guessing the seals in the master went bad cant think of anything else that would cause this problem. Im looking into do a wilwood dual master setup now but am unsure of what size master for the front and rear brakes. Because they will be independent i can size them accordingly. just what Im wondering now would be what size for the fronts and what for the rears? 3/4? 7/8? 1? 1 1/16?
Back to the Zerk! Nit pick comment. If the cross of the Ujoint is not drilled, the Zerk lubes only the one bearing? Does the cross have a tapped hole for the Zerk? Some do, others not.
As to the Wilwood install. Why not check with their tech's ?
Back to the Zerk! Nit pick comment. If the cross of the Ujoint is not drilled, the Zerk lubes only the one bearing? Does the cross have a tapped hole for the Zerk? Some do, others not.
As to the Wilwood install. Why not check with their tech's ?
Carl
the cross is drilled out so the fitting lubes all the bearings, and i will send them an email and find out, just was wondering if anyone had done this similar set up before and had some knowledge to pass along my way
my experience is that most castings (the cross) are hollow all the way through, BUT have burrs that block the lube flow. So you always end up drilling them to be sure.
Chip, why not go with a hydroboost install? They're on most anything GM, even my old '99 astro work van has it. The vette guys retrofit the older vettes with them all the time. Already have a ps pump on there, just need the HB and make up a couple hoses. Use an 05 corvette/cadillac master, they're aluminum and common to lots of gm cars too.
On the u-joints, most all the vette guys advise staying away from ujoints with zerks. Many accounts of them breaking even from non stressful loads. All Spicer solids on my vette.
Chip, why not go with a hydroboost install? They're on most anything GM, even my old '99 astro work van has it. The vette guys retrofit the older vettes with them all the time. Already have a ps pump on there, just need the HB and make up a couple hoses. Use an 05 corvette/cadillac master, they're aluminum and common to lots of gm cars too.
On the u-joints, most all the vette guys advise staying away from ujoints with zerks. Many accounts of them breaking even from non stressful loads. All Spicer solids on my vette.
Ive looked into it but im trying to keep weight down, ill probably do away with the power steering as well, run a manual rack and manual brakes. id like the car to be a lot lighter than when it was stock and with the weight savings from the engine swap, body work, and stripped interior, I'm being very particular about what does and doesnt go into the car. And I told the trans axle shop that made the driveshaft that the car will have anywhere from 300-600 hp so i dont want to have another one made down the line. plus it has warranty too, so if i brakes theyll get to see my angry face hehe
Im currently emailing will wilwood and figuring out the best setup for the car, hopefully have a response by the end of today and will pass it along here as well
anything i try to fit will have to be custom and mostlikey have to use rack offset spacers to get the angle right, not to mention notch the oil pan or fab one up to clear. For now ive filled the rack with fluid and looped the lines so its a mildly sloppy manual rack.
I looped the lines with a tee and used a funnel filled with fluid while i turned the wheel side to side a bunch so that the system is 100 % full. It feels pretty good to be honest
In a non car related post, i started to clean the garage after the whirlwind of trying to make it to the car show a couple weeks ago... made some progress with new shelves for storage and a new table to organize my sockets and jack stands. A lot more cleaning and tiding needs to happen but there are only so many hours in a day. Also started making a little memorabilia wall that i wanted clear of shelving but didnt want to leave bare
