Hello.
Well happened that when I went to smog the car I noticed a cooling fluid leak
from the hose nut that goes from the engine to the heating unit.
So I stopped the engine and after it cooled down I tightened the hose nut that you can see in the picture. it did not look loose apparently but I rotated clockwise slightly applying quite a bit of force. I did not want to apply to much force on it.
I did 300mi without any other leaking problems.
Do you think the hose/nut may need a replacement ?
thank you

 

I *think* we're looking at one of the air conditioning hoses that goes to the fuel cooler. There's an o-ring under the nut that seals the connection. Keep an eye on it.

An air conditioning shop can use a leak detector to verify that is is/isn't leaking.

Does your air conditioning blow cold?

Cheers
DD

 

hi Dough, AC is not working at all for different reasons.
The first of all is that the guy in the following pictures is stuck in the "winter mode".
I tried to put it manually to "summer mode" but it does not stay in place. I need to force it with some tool to stay in place.

 

That's the heater valve. When vacuum is applied the valve closes. When vacuum is removed the valve opens.

Until other issues are sorted you can run the vacuum hose to a convenient vacuum source on the engine to close it

Cheers
DD

 

I do not know how to do it... I think there is something missing that is not attached to the heater valve... It is not working. On the center console the lever is on the "cold" setting but hot air is blowing out...
How this heater valve should look like ?
You mean the hose that right now is attached to the heater valve is not attached to a vacuum source in the other end ? so this is why it does not close ?

 

It does look like part of the lever is broken off but the valve should still open and close....unless it is broken inside


The horizontal slide control is just a trim adjustment for upper-vs-lower vents. The main temp control is the left rotary knob with the temperature markings. Set it to the coldest setting and see what happens


The hose might be broken off or disconnected. Or the valves and controls inside the cabin that control the vacuum are not functioning. It's a complex system.

Cheers
DD

 

Yup, unless the hose atop the dome is attached to a vacuum source, you get heat in the cabin. Not welcome as of now.


The hose clamp in the picture is not original. In itself not an issue. But, an indicator that it's been messed with and perhaps busted.


In gaining familiarity with this great find, it is research time. Search the archives here for a vacuum hose schematic. Check out the hoses and connections. It is a complex, yet interesting use of vacuum.


Carl

 

there are some really good threads on here with diagnostic steps to follow. In the meantime, based on 2 months experience, the handle of a thick screwdriver will wedge nicely under the coolant hose with the shaft resting on the two prongs sticking out to push the valve closed for the summer.

 

Yes I did this but the valve does not stay pushed up. I was thinking to put
a metal wire to hold the position in place.

if I rotate the left rotary knob all the way to chilly temp, still blows hot air.
There may be more than one issue here probably.

 

No doubt about it. The dryer is a long black cylinder across the top of the radiator. Some cars have a sight glass. Run the engine. Look for fluid moving. I suspect the system is empty. Fixing the AC is a world to itself.


Swapping out valve for a generic plastic unit is doable. Just make sure it's logic matches. Check out the Rock Auto catalog on line. A good guide as well as a source. And/or David Boger at everydayxj. Good guy and a great source of good used and NOS parts.


Search and down load Dr. Gregory's Jagcare. Excellent place to get acquainted with your car.


Carl

 

Thanks for the info Carl

 

That AC compressor adjustment bolt looks to be loose! And crooked. And that may be oil from higher up making its way down to that AC fitting.

 

I do not know how can you say they are loose ?
I don't understand sorry.

 

Not the adjuster bolt itself, it looks OK with its lock-nuts either side, but the nut securing the adjuster housing. Look at the top nut and its washers that secure the adjuster in your last photo.

 

oh I See. I'll give it a look