Pendiss - I would but at the moment I can't even get the car out of the garage to test as we have 12" of snow and an auto with summer tyres is not good in the snow.
Did you have issues with the carbs? Mine is also a '66 MK 10 which hasn't been used much over the last 10 years.

 

I rebuilt all three carbs. The jets were cracked, filters clogged and the bodies were filthy. Also added oil to the dampers. I then had my mechanic set the three carbs properly. Run well once its been running for 15 minutes. Rough idle (around 600) when cold.

 

Pendliss - I'm coming to the same conclusion, that I'll have to rebuild. I've cleaned all I can without removing as they're so difficult to remove due to lack of access. Also with my rusty tanks who knows what crud could be inside.

As you've already rebuilt yours:
1 - Did you get the rebuild kits from Burlen fuels and if si which kits did you use?
2 - Do any parts need to be pressed in? I don't have access to a press or reamer

How does your auxillary carb function....well?

Assuming you have an auto box how does the car/engine react when you select drive? Does it want to stall?

 

I did not get a kit - just got the parts I needed from SNG Barrett. No parts needed to be pressed in. Getting the intake manifold off was a pain but it then gave me the opportunity to polish the aluminum while I was rebuilding the carbs. The aux carb worked fine - stays on until the engine reaches 35C. On a cold day (below 50F here) it may take three attempts to start a cold engine before it runs without dying out. Then I let it idle until the aux carb goes off before I put it into gear. There is still a chance the engine will stutter until I've been driving for another five minutes and then it runs smoothly. I do have some piston slap which I believe contributes to the rough cold running but it dissipates when the engine reaches full operating temp.

 

Pendliss - Did you take the inlet menifold off so you could polish it or is it easier to remove the carbs and manifold in one unit? It looks like you need the fingers of a small child to get to some of the nuts.

 

Condition of the engine when I got the car


After polishing

I took the air intake assembly off to have easier access to the carbs and fuel line which needed top be replaced and because I needed to have it polished. I did not remove the intake manifold at that time. It took quite a bit of time as the nuts are in such a tight location, you can only spin them a tiny amount before needing to reposition the wrench.

 

Pendliss - Wow those are good before & after photos, I'm not going for that level of finish. I can see you've done a lot of other work as well. I they'll have to come off, that's the only way I'll know they're not full of rusty bits or damaged.