F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Group Buy: (4) Motorsport Tech hubcentric adapters/spacers

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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 01:19 PM
  #21  
Burt Gummer's Avatar
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Bolts were not anodized but you can see them, not needed. I definitely would not paint them. Two metal surfaces pressed tightly together, heat, alum, and steel. Hmm, paint or even powdercoat not a good idea.
 

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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 02:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Burt Gummer
Bolts were not anodized but you can see them, not needed. I definitely would not paint them. Two metal surfaces pressed tightly together, heat, alum, and steel. Hmm, paint or even powdercoat not a good idea.
+1. The bolts can’t be seen. Besides, they are steel which can’t be anodized.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mlebofsky
I'm missing the distinction. The footprint is wider but not larger?
Yup... so by adding a wider tire you haven’t made the footprint (or contact patch) area any larger. You’ve just changed it’s shape. There’s more tire width on the road, but the tire length touching the road is shorter. Most people think adding a wider tire gives them more contact patch and thus more traction but that’s actually not the case. It’s much more complex than that.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 03:24 PM
  #24  
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Chester are you in?

unhingd and others can you comment on 10mm hubcentric spacers with longer lug nuts and no stud modifications? I wonder if the cost is about the same considering the cost of the longer lugs. You may be eliminated the effort to trim studs (which is a good thing) but at what cost (looks? Safety? Other?)


1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17, 15) - should confirm if trimming needed with 17mm
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 03:35 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Burt Gummer
Bolts were not anodized but you can see them, not needed. I definitely would not paint them. Two metal surfaces pressed tightly together, heat, alum, and steel. Hmm, paint or even powdercoat not a good idea.
I put spacers on all 3 of my Jags and I've only ever painted the edges and the outside part of the front face, ie the bits you can see, avoiding anywhere that would otherwise be a metal to metal contact area, and I've never had a problem. Yes, it's a bit fiddly compared to just slathering paint all over the front face, but not that difficult to achieve.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 05:45 PM
  #26  
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sorry posted in wrong place - ignore
 

Last edited by shahuk; Jan 5, 2018 at 05:47 PM. Reason: Sorry posted in wrong place - ignore
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 06:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by watson6505
Chester are you in?

unhingd and others can you comment on 10mm hubcentric spacers with longer lug nuts and no stud modifications? I wonder if the cost is about the same considering the cost of the longer lugs. You may be eliminated the effort to trim studs (which is a good thing) but at what cost (looks? Safety? Other?).
By my calculation, I personally wouldn't do more than a 6mm spacer without pressing longer studs into the hubs (expensive process) or lug nuts with a longer neck (the price of the lug nuts). That said, if you ever plan on putting a 305 tire on the rear, you shouldn't be using a spacer (or adapter) greater than 10mm.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 07:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
By my calculation, I personally wouldn't do more than a 6mm spacer without pressing longer studs into the hubs (expensive process) or lug nuts with a longer neck (the price of the lug nuts). That said, if you ever plan on putting a 305 tire on the rear, you shouldn't be using a spacer (or adapter) greater than 10mm.
AGREED. 10mm spacer , longer neck lug nuts, and the 305 rear was just right for me .....
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 07:30 PM
  #29  
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Anyone on the fence regarding this mod - hop over!

Best appearance mod for the money you can do. If you need proof just watch the car in front of you on the road. Almost all cars look like they are on stilts. Tires way inside the fenders. Ugly.

Sorry the factory F-type although not terrible also has that look and it sucks.

If you do no other mod, do this one. Ferrari and others did this right.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 07:40 PM
  #30  
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so help me understand the longer neck lug nuts benefit. Lets say I have 10mm of stud protruding from my wheel (just picked a round number). A standard lug nut gets 6 full rotations before its 'tight' how does a longer neck lug get the wheel any tighter on the hub? How does a longer neck lug get any more turns before its 'tight'? Wouldnt the longer neck lug just have more internal hollow space? Unless you are saying that the longer neck actually goes further inside the wheel openings, allowing more turns since there is more available hollow space in the longer lug. Is that the benefit?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 07:51 PM
  #31  
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YES. The longer neck actually goes further inside the wheel openings, allowing more turns since there is more available hollow space in the longer lug. The spacers they made for me actually allow the extended lug nut neck to extend a few mm beyond the wheel and into the spacer (not actually touching the spacer).
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 07:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by watson6505
Unless you are saying that the longer neck actually goes further inside the wheel openings, allowing more turns since there is more available hollow space in the longer lug. Is that the benefit?
This. See photo below for a better understanding:


 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 08:11 PM
  #33  
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Thanks stohlen

1. You have any rear shots of your stance with the 10mm spaces? Maybe a before/after?
2. Do they sell a locking version of those extended necks?
3. Can you provide a link of where you got those so I can get the specs for what I need?
4. What did you have to tell Lenny to allow for the longer neck to recess into the spacer some amount (did he shave the openings in the spacers a little to have them recess? "Countersink" a couple mm for lack of a better term)

I would certainly consider the 10mm noting the KISS approach. I just want to make sure the 10mm is noticeable.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:13 PM
  #34  
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Lots of different set-ups available depending on your willingness to push the envelope.
I'm running MPSS on all 4 corners.
Wider 305/30 ZR20's on the rear with 15mm Spacers.
Stock 255/35 ZR20's on the front with 17mm Spacers.

While I have VAP springs on hand, I have yet to install them. Adding the spacers pushed the tires out such that they filled the wheel well to a point I continue to debate whether lowing is needed.

No rubbing whatsoever in front.
Very rare rubbing in the rear was completely eliminated by a slight adjustment to the lip of the rear fender.

Black Anodized spacers is the way to go.
Lenny at Motor Tech Sports is a pleasure to deal with, and stands behind his product.

BTW: Stohlen's pic above shows the incorrect style lug nut if you are running Jaguar brand wheels. The "Acorn" style seat is not ideal; can wear at the point the taper contacts the wheel; and then inadvertently work their way loose. Not Safe.

Jaguar brand wheels should be installed using a "Mag Style" lug nut.
Gorilla makes them in Chrome or Black.





 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:23 PM
  #35  
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Thanks Iron Mike for the clarification on the lugs and setup options.

One question I just thought of with the 10mm spacers and extended necks...if the lugs do not fit inside the spacer like they fit inside the wheel, how do you ensure that the lug isn't hitting the spacer before the wheel is tight enough? For example, you are torquing at 92 but thats the lug against the spacer and the wheel isnt getting the same torque?

Does my question make sense?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:37 PM
  #36  
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I am in, However, I would love to see some photos at angles... rear shots, etc.. Thanks Ted.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by watson6505
Thanks Iron Mike for the clarification on the lugs and setup options.

One question I just thought of with the 10mm spacers and extended necks...if the lugs do not fit inside the spacer like they fit inside the wheel, how do you ensure that the lug isn't hitting the spacer before the wheel is tight enough? For example, you are torquing at 92 but thats the lug against the spacer and the wheel isnt getting the same torque?

Does my question make sense?
Yes, your question makes sense and is a very valid question. Also a potentially disastrous problem if using extended neck lug nuts.

Reading mlebofsky's post, sounds like he had his spacers modified to include pockets around each stud, to prevent the longer neck from seating on the spacer before it seated/cinched against the wheel. One problem I see with this solution is that each stud itself is now seated in 10mm of spacer, minus the depth of the pocket, presumably 2 or 3mm. Having the studs secured into 7 or 8mm thick material seems a tad precarious to me.

IMHO, 10mm spacers are not ideal. 15 or 17mm adapters have been the choice of most F-Type owners with great success.
 

Last edited by IronMike; Jan 6, 2018 at 12:13 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:43 PM
  #38  
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updated list and Ted, do you have a size preference and are you flexible with 15mm or 17mm, anodized or not and if by any chance we decided to go 10mm (not saying we are, just asking the question). I posted a 15mm rear shot of unhingd ride from behind. I know there are a ton of others out there and a quick search for spacers may reveal some setups. I would love a single thread with all 15mm and 17mm photos.

1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17, 15) - should confirm if trimming needed with 17mm
4. Donzi38ZXXX
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:48 PM
  #39  
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I think to get the extended neck lugs to work properly with 10mm spacers, you would have to give the specs of the wheel thickness, neck length, and required pocket/recessing depth to Lenny to ensure it all jived together.

IF the stud lengths varies from stud to stud and wheel to wheel, you might not even get it to work with all the measurements provided above without making sure all studs are pre-measured to be the exact same length.

Seems like it could be more tricky that 15/17mm spacers and trimming studs
 
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 12:02 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by watson6505
I think to get the extended neck lugs to work properly with 10mm spacers, you would have to give the specs of the wheel thickness, neck length, and required pocket/recessing depth to Lenny to ensure it all jived together.

IF the stud lengths varies from stud to stud and wheel to wheel, you might not even get it to work with all the measurements provided above without making sure all studs are pre-measured to be the exact same length.

Seems like it could be more tricky that 15/17mm spacers and trimming studs
Agreed. What size rear tires are you running?
Besides, unless one makes a conscious decision to use the incorrect style lug nut, a safety issue itself, I have not seen a "Mag Style" nut with extended necks that fit Jaguar lugs or threads
 

Last edited by IronMike; Jan 6, 2018 at 12:06 AM.
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