that is excellent work iramphal. Maybe you should write the mod for Series 2 XJ6.
if you can make it work with LEDs, let me know.5

 

I'll look up the numbers tomorrow and post them. The ones I got are really bright and stick up into the plastic lens so you can see them from every direction. BTW, while you are at it, order a pair of the LED bulbs for the dash turn signal indicators. They are so much brighter so you can see them in bright daylight. Took about 10 minutes to install all six bulbs.

 

Hey Yellow, what are the part numbers for the bulbs? Also, do they work with the bulb failure system?
Mine (the warning light) is always on no matter what I do - equal bulbs each side etc.

 

you must have a failed bulb failure sensor. Mine work normally with the mod.

 

Jose, Where are the failure sensors? Are they repairable?

 

Here are the numbers for the LED bulbs. I ordered themfrom LEDlight.com. They were very easy to deal with and I got them in 2 days.

4 side marker lights: #26489 They are 2.5 watts and size is called BA9S. $4.06 each
2 dash indicator lights: #45687 They are 1 watt and called size T10 wedge. $2.80 each

I am going to try and post a photo of the side marker lights taken in the garage during the daytime. You can see they are easily visable from any angle.
Jeff

 

iramphal,
the bulb failure sensors or whatever they are called, are located in the trunk, to the left of the ECU, in Series 3 cars. They look like small voltage regulators, here's a picture of two Series 2 ones, but the Series 3 are similar.

they are grouped together, 3 or 4 of them.

The are "openable", but I have never had one go bad, so I've never tried to repair one.

 

Since we're on the subject of bulb failure units.....

These little critters are not very smart. They don't know if you have the correct bulbs, or equal bulbs on either side. All they recognize is xx-amount of heat.

Inside there's a little bi-metal switch that responds to heat. If there are xx-number of bulbs on circuit they'll draw xx-current which creates xx-amount of heat.

When cold the switch is closed and allows voltage to pass to the dashboard light. When the lights are turned on the bulbs draw current and heat is created. After 15-20 seconds of heating the switch opens and thus breaks the circuit to the dashboard light, extinguishing it.

If a bulb burns out less current is drawn and less heat is created. This lack of heat closes the bi-metal switch, completing the circuit to the dashboard warning light.

Some LED replacements don't draw enough current to generate the heat needed to open the switch....thus the dashboard warning light is always on. Many LED replacements, though, have a built-in resistor to replicate a regular bulb...thus creating the heat needed to keep the bulb failure system working.

Cheers
DD