What did you do to your X308 Today?
Veteran Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,878
Likes: 1,424
From: Sunny Southport UK
Yet another night where I thought I might have made progress towards the eventual fixing of all the little things, and all I did was go backwards...
I decided I needed to finally replace the O2 sensor to rid myself of the P1646 code I was getting, as the only two codes I had were a P1000, and P1646 after my last. I managed to replace it, and thought that was well.
I also noticed that I had the connector to the brake fluid reservoir unplugged. Maybe I forgot to plug that back in when I replaced the booster, maybe that's why I've been getting the Low Brake Fluid message? Ok, plug that in, maybe that fixes that.
Also while at it, decided to spray and brush out any dirt from the TPPS on the TB to see if maybe, MAYBE I can get lucky and that will stave off the 1121 common issue that is sure to creep up on me more as the weather stays hotter, at least until I can get a rebuild. Zip-tied the ends of the vacuum line that went to the... bypass valve, the one that comes off the supercharger and down to a near the underside of the TB on the passenger side. Anyway that hose had broken and I had replaced it but noticed it had popped off the end. So I tied those up, and figured that solves THAT issue too.
All in all, sounded like progress, right?
Start the car, figure ok, going to clear the codes right off, and then see...
P1000, P1646, P0340, P0341 all light up instantly. Now, I haven't done a hard reset (a lot in the trunk right now), and I did this all with a semi-warm engine which hasn't gone through any cycles. But to say disheartened, would be an accurate statement. Now, the O2 sensor I bought, was following a prior post about someone who had used one from an X-Type and worked fine - so it's possible that they got lucky, and it just really doesn't work that well, and my attempt at saving a couple bucks to see if I got lucky also, just failed.
I'm also a little annoyed at the P0340 and P0341 codes. I can only assume it's related to the half-melted plug that I had posted a picture of in another thread, and was told that it shouldn't matter for my engine either way. Color me skeptical now, since that's the only thing I can see that a) is even in the region I was working on and b) certainly looks like it is in horrible shape. And since I believe the passenger side on a US XJR is considered Bank A, and seems like it would be in an appropriate location for a camshaft sensor... maybe? In either case, I taped the wires up, keeping them separate so they can't touch or cross, and.. well to be honest at that point, I just closed the hood and came inside.
I decided I needed to finally replace the O2 sensor to rid myself of the P1646 code I was getting, as the only two codes I had were a P1000, and P1646 after my last. I managed to replace it, and thought that was well.
I also noticed that I had the connector to the brake fluid reservoir unplugged. Maybe I forgot to plug that back in when I replaced the booster, maybe that's why I've been getting the Low Brake Fluid message? Ok, plug that in, maybe that fixes that.
Also while at it, decided to spray and brush out any dirt from the TPPS on the TB to see if maybe, MAYBE I can get lucky and that will stave off the 1121 common issue that is sure to creep up on me more as the weather stays hotter, at least until I can get a rebuild. Zip-tied the ends of the vacuum line that went to the... bypass valve, the one that comes off the supercharger and down to a near the underside of the TB on the passenger side. Anyway that hose had broken and I had replaced it but noticed it had popped off the end. So I tied those up, and figured that solves THAT issue too.
All in all, sounded like progress, right?
Start the car, figure ok, going to clear the codes right off, and then see...
P1000, P1646, P0340, P0341 all light up instantly. Now, I haven't done a hard reset (a lot in the trunk right now), and I did this all with a semi-warm engine which hasn't gone through any cycles. But to say disheartened, would be an accurate statement. Now, the O2 sensor I bought, was following a prior post about someone who had used one from an X-Type and worked fine - so it's possible that they got lucky, and it just really doesn't work that well, and my attempt at saving a couple bucks to see if I got lucky also, just failed.
I'm also a little annoyed at the P0340 and P0341 codes. I can only assume it's related to the half-melted plug that I had posted a picture of in another thread, and was told that it shouldn't matter for my engine either way. Color me skeptical now, since that's the only thing I can see that a) is even in the region I was working on and b) certainly looks like it is in horrible shape. And since I believe the passenger side on a US XJR is considered Bank A, and seems like it would be in an appropriate location for a camshaft sensor... maybe? In either case, I taped the wires up, keeping them separate so they can't touch or cross, and.. well to be honest at that point, I just closed the hood and came inside.
With the CMPS - see if you can locate another connector and replace the fragged one, I haven't seen the picture of yours but it sounds like the fault is that with no signal.
I've replaced the MAF already, and cleaned both it, and my old one before hand. The CMPS codes have cleared now that I've sorted that connector out, but I will be replacing it at some point. Unfortunately for me, the yards around here rarely have any X308s anywhere, so it's a matter of finding one somewhere online that isn't outrageous.
As for the 1646 O2 sensor code, my guess is that it's just a matter of it being a pretty cheap X-type sensor I purchased, it very well could be just incorrect, so I'll be ordering a new, actual ZJR unit asap. Still have to track down the Low Brake Fluid light cause, but that's been more an annoyance than anything, since the brakes do work, even though I think I'm in great need of another bleeding session.
As for the 1646 O2 sensor code, my guess is that it's just a matter of it being a pretty cheap X-type sensor I purchased, it very well could be just incorrect, so I'll be ordering a new, actual ZJR unit asap. Still have to track down the Low Brake Fluid light cause, but that's been more an annoyance than anything, since the brakes do work, even though I think I'm in great need of another bleeding session.
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 370
From: Virginia
I replaced the upstream O2 sensors in my XJR with these in 2016.
The Amazon link won't work! The address is correct but it links through the Jaguarforums site and then goes to Walmart with a more expensive item. Let me try to figure out why...
It will not work, sorry. Even though the address clearly says amazon.com it goes to a Jaguarforums page and then defaults to Walmart. Has jaguarforums banned links to Amazon?
Search on Amazon using "Bosch 15627 Oxygen Sensor, OE Fitment (Jaguar)". They are about $86 each with free shipping (with prime).
The Amazon link won't work! The address is correct but it links through the Jaguarforums site and then goes to Walmart with a more expensive item. Let me try to figure out why...
It will not work, sorry. Even though the address clearly says amazon.com it goes to a Jaguarforums page and then defaults to Walmart. Has jaguarforums banned links to Amazon?
Search on Amazon using "Bosch 15627 Oxygen Sensor, OE Fitment (Jaguar)". They are about $86 each with free shipping (with prime).
Last edited by harvest14; Jun 1, 2018 at 09:59 AM.
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 1,018
From: Redding CA
That's actually the exact one I ordered just after I posted my last. Looking forward to seeing what ELSE breaks after I fix that lol
Just had a guy "great car , is it for sale ?!" now if he would've asked me this last week ?! As I say thanks & feel proud closing the door, the overhead console falls down , go figure lol.
lol I know the feeling. Hopefully in your neck of the woods, you have a better market. I've received many compliments on the car itself, but the only couple times someone asked if I'd sell it, were people looking to score a nice car for next to nothing - they weren't nearly ready to offer an actual value. Not even close to the minimal book value they already have.
And today's failure:
Halfshaft outer u-joint is bad. Seeing as I don't have a press handy, and considering I could buy a used shaft complete for the same price as a ball joint press, I figured I'd just replace the whole thing. Then I could press new joints into the one I remove, to swap the other side. I mean, how hard can it be? Four nuts on the diff side, pull it out.
They. Don't. Budge.
One of the four, I could get an angle with my impact and extensions. Never so much as wiggled. The others, forget it. No amount of angle, wrench, socket, extension, bar combination would even get anything close. And how lucky for me in my confidence that I had already removed the hub nut and brakes (and couldn't get the rotor off either). Which means now, I have to go buy a press and new u-joints anyway, the used shaft I have on my floor is worthless to me, and I'm just getting farther behind. Or, I spend hundreds of dollars at whatever shop I can even find that I would remotely trust, all so they can replace a 20 dollar part.
Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe my feelings about this car right now... Oh, and I did verify that the Upstream X-Type O2 sensor I bought, wasn't what was delivered. Explains why that didn't fix anything. Yes, right now is a bad time for me to know that this thing is fully insured, complete with gap coverage...
Halfshaft outer u-joint is bad. Seeing as I don't have a press handy, and considering I could buy a used shaft complete for the same price as a ball joint press, I figured I'd just replace the whole thing. Then I could press new joints into the one I remove, to swap the other side. I mean, how hard can it be? Four nuts on the diff side, pull it out.
They. Don't. Budge.
One of the four, I could get an angle with my impact and extensions. Never so much as wiggled. The others, forget it. No amount of angle, wrench, socket, extension, bar combination would even get anything close. And how lucky for me in my confidence that I had already removed the hub nut and brakes (and couldn't get the rotor off either). Which means now, I have to go buy a press and new u-joints anyway, the used shaft I have on my floor is worthless to me, and I'm just getting farther behind. Or, I spend hundreds of dollars at whatever shop I can even find that I would remotely trust, all so they can replace a 20 dollar part.
Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe my feelings about this car right now... Oh, and I did verify that the Upstream X-Type O2 sensor I bought, wasn't what was delivered. Explains why that didn't fix anything. Yes, right now is a bad time for me to know that this thing is fully insured, complete with gap coverage...
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 117
Likes: 7
From: Los Angeles
check this .. seal at end of brake booster vacuum line
Many of us owning Jag x308 series cars should check for leaks at brake booster vacuum line connection into throttle body adapter.
This large vacuum line frequently will have leaks, especially if your car has high mileage or has had cooling system problems. Not easily noticed. Vacuum line is large and connects beneath throttle body. This vacuum line is only held pressed to a rubber "o" ring within the throttle body adapter to intake manifold. Hot engine = loss of flexibility in rubber seal at tube end.
if you have a leak... only available part is shown in s-type & x-type parts catalogs (x200 & X400). C2S15816 vacuum line conector kit, consists of 2 pieces & 3 parts. "o" ring is principal part needed. However, "o" ring necessary is found within press-on brass bushing. Good luck.
This large vacuum line frequently will have leaks, especially if your car has high mileage or has had cooling system problems. Not easily noticed. Vacuum line is large and connects beneath throttle body. This vacuum line is only held pressed to a rubber "o" ring within the throttle body adapter to intake manifold. Hot engine = loss of flexibility in rubber seal at tube end.
if you have a leak... only available part is shown in s-type & x-type parts catalogs (x200 & X400). C2S15816 vacuum line conector kit, consists of 2 pieces & 3 parts. "o" ring is principal part needed. However, "o" ring necessary is found within press-on brass bushing. Good luck.
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 1,018
From: Redding CA
My front shocks/dampers arrived today, so I fitted them this afternoon. OEM Bilstein comfort shocks.
I ordered them as a full front/rear set for $451.00 on E-bay, but only the fronts have arrived so far.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Jaguar-...IAAOSw1XNZpTLP
Easy to fit, I thought I could get away without removing the upper shock mount plates, but it is much easier/essential that you remove them, then the damper units just drop out, etc.
I don't know the age of the old ones, I am assuming they are the originals, they look and tested just fine, but the new ones do seem to give a better ride...........or maybe it's just physiological,............... but at least I now know the front shocks are new!
The rear ones should arrive next week sometime, a bit more work than the fronts to install!
.
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 4,039
Likes: 1,397
From: Kansas City USA
Carnival Kid ,
Thanks for the video link on the shocks .
I had to steal your smiley GIF
If your have a open wheel design the have imitation Brembo painted caliper covers and can be seen on display at O'Reily's stores , someone on this forum added real bolt heads to look more authentic .
https://www.calipercovers.com/?gclid...SAAEgIUuvD_BwE
Thanks for the video link on the shocks .
I had to steal your smiley GIF
If your have a open wheel design the have imitation Brembo painted caliper covers and can be seen on display at O'Reily's stores , someone on this forum added real bolt heads to look more authentic .
https://www.calipercovers.com/?gclid...SAAEgIUuvD_BwE
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Jun 2, 2018 at 07:49 PM.
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 1,018
From: Redding CA
Absolutely, it was this video that impelled me to address the rear shocks, there was no way I would have gone for the rear axle removal method, but the "cheat" method looks very doable. So glad I found the video and could share it.
Steal away!
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Don't have an open wheel design. Had a 2003 Corvette and spent a lot of time/money on special chrome wheels/upgraded painted calipers. I like the "subtle" concealed wheel design of the X3008 VDP, a lot less hassle.
.
Steal away!
.
.
Veteran Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,878
Likes: 1,424
From: Sunny Southport UK
Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe my feelings about this car right now... Oh, and I did verify that the Upstream X-Type O2 sensor I bought, wasn't what was delivered. Explains why that didn't fix anything. Yes, right now is a bad time for me to know that this thing is fully insured, complete with gap coverage...
New alternator, front upper shock mounts, and full wheelset refurbish have just become priorities, hurrah!
The thing is once it's done we're back in cars that rock.
I dunno, at it's age and mileage, lately it feels like once it's done, it's something else that needs to be!
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 1,018
From: Redding CA
Just a follow-up to my earlier post where I fitted new front shocks yesterday. After a extended drive this morning it is very obvious that the new shocks have made a difference, the ride is "smoother" and has a somehow more "solid" feel. Can't wait to replace the rear shocks now.
.
.
Veteran Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 515
From: MD, USA
And today's failure:
Halfshaft outer u-joint is bad. Seeing as I don't have a press handy, and considering I could buy a used shaft complete for the same price as a ball joint press, I figured I'd just replace the whole thing. Then I could press new joints into the one I remove, to swap the other side. I mean, how hard can it be? Four nuts on the diff side, pull it out.
They. Don't. Budge.
One of the four, I could get an angle with my impact and extensions. Never so much as wiggled. The others, forget it. No amount of angle, wrench, socket, extension, bar combination would even get anything close. And how lucky for me in my confidence that I had already removed the hub nut and brakes (and couldn't get the rotor off either). Which means now, I have to go buy a press and new u-joints anyway, the used shaft I have on my floor is worthless to me, and I'm just getting farther behind. Or, I spend hundreds of dollars at whatever shop I can even find that I would remotely trust, all so they can replace a 20 dollar part.
Halfshaft outer u-joint is bad. Seeing as I don't have a press handy, and considering I could buy a used shaft complete for the same price as a ball joint press, I figured I'd just replace the whole thing. Then I could press new joints into the one I remove, to swap the other side. I mean, how hard can it be? Four nuts on the diff side, pull it out.
They. Don't. Budge.
One of the four, I could get an angle with my impact and extensions. Never so much as wiggled. The others, forget it. No amount of angle, wrench, socket, extension, bar combination would even get anything close. And how lucky for me in my confidence that I had already removed the hub nut and brakes (and couldn't get the rotor off either). Which means now, I have to go buy a press and new u-joints anyway, the used shaft I have on my floor is worthless to me, and I'm just getting farther behind. Or, I spend hundreds of dollars at whatever shop I can even find that I would remotely trust, all so they can replace a 20 dollar part.