Quick question on the piston head are they completely flat? Or have little spots for valve clearance? Cause I used my bore scope to look at the cylinder walls to see if the cross hatching is still there and it is on the 4 I looked at. But here’s a picture of the piston head.

 

Couldn’t get a good picture of the cross hatching but from what I saw it’s still there but I won’t know for sure till I remove the engine. Also I removed the breather hose from the intake when it was running and I could see exhaust fumes and oil mist coming from it. I’ll probably start removing the engine on Friday or the weekend if timing permits.

 

I also did something really stupid. You know the crank pully and the bolt on it well I used it to turn the engine with a 1/2” ratchet with a 15/16” socket on it. Well I forgot it when I put everything back together. When I started the car I thought the timing chains jumped or broke or something I heard a wap wap wap then nothing just a smooth engine. So I turned it off and thankfully it didn’t break anything. So all’s good.

 

So another update I checked all coils and coil wires those are good. I also checked all spark plugs and swapped 1 and 7 plugs with new ones still the same thing. I’m getting plenty of fuel. I don’t know the pressure since I don’t have a fuel tester. But the shrater valve does have pressure. The p0300 on my code reader before just said random misfire. Now it says to check for burnt valves ect I’ll post the picture. But when I pulled the car out of the garage and to it’s spot I had to go back to get my flash light there was a bigger oil puddle than usual and I don’t know where it’s coming from it’s to late and it’s night so I’ll look at it tomorrow but I’ll post the pictures of the dtc’s

 

 

Hi Belmon,

Pay no attention to the code definitions from your scanner - those are generic definitions. Instead, look up the definitions in the Jaguar DTC Summaries guide I linked to in post #6.

Your Bank 1 fuel trims are high positive, indicating the ECM is attempting to correct for a lean running condition by enriching the fueling. One of the most common causes of lean running is a leak in the air intake between the MAFS and the intake manifold gasket, but typically you will also have a lean DTC in addition to the misfire DTCs. I've got to get to bed, but hopefully these clues will help track down the issue - see the possible causes of your cylinder 1 and 7 misfire codes in the DTC Summaries guide.

Cheers,

Don

 

Just finished a compression test when I got home this is when the engine is warm because I drove it in my garage I don’t want it to wash out the bores. The misfiring cylinders 1 has 20 psi number 7 is 36 psi the non misfiring ones are #2 120 #3 122 #4 127 #5 115 #6 136 #8 135. I put a little oil in #1 and 7 to see if the rings would seal a little better but no luck only got a extra 10 psi on both. So I’m looking at rings or weak/broken valve springs. And if I’m taking the heads off the engine is coming out. And sense some of the other cylinders are low I’ll do those rings also along with all of the engine seals/oil pump. I’ll document the removal and teardown in a new thread and link it on here. Also any recommendations to do during the removal process and what to change or inspect other than the engine sense the engine will be removed? Just want to get a idea on what else to lookout for?