Hi i have a 2001 x308 vanden plas that i bought about 4 months ago from an older fellow who used it as a daily but stopped running then sat for 3 years, its in pretty good condition all around no rust or major problems from when he owned it, i bought it so that i could learn and get it running to use as a daily. Well when i first got it, i tried to get it to crank with new plugs and coil packs, it would sputter then die, maybe sometimes it would run for 3 seconds then die, then after like 10 to 20 tries over a span of two weeks it started showing restricted performance and misfires on 3 and 6, i replaced the maf sensor, and replaced the crank position sensor and that got rid of the misfire and restricted perfomance, it would not sputter and not turn over at all, i finally decided to replace the fuel pump and filter and after that still the same, ive checked all fuses almost 20 times now and the only one ever tripped was the fuel pump which was replaced early into when i bought the car, the cams and timing looks good new fresh oil and filter of course and after all of that still nothing, if anyone has some ideas or tips for a first time jaguar owner i would oved to hear what anyone has to say please. ps. i bought it as my first car because i wanted a true saloon.



this is the car

 

Hello, firstly congratulations on your new purpose. I actually own the exact same year, make and model in Carnival Red. Owning a Jaguar can be a bitter SWEET relationship with your vehicle, especially if it's older and previous issues haven't been resolved yet. 3 of the MOST KNOWN causes of a Jag xj308 not purring (running) are timing chain ptensioners ( need to be replaced) and can kill an engine, leaking coolant from hoses ( low coolant warning) will cause OVERHEATING and Engine stalling. And needing to have the thermostat housing replaced with a metal one. My car had a similar response to replacing spark plugs and ignition coils. It would sputtering and shut off. I finally realized the engine had ceased, even though I didn't want to accept it at first..
To remedy this problem of a dead engine, Bought a new, used AJ engine off ebay and replace my old one. It costed some money to get ALL the work done, but the SWEET part is when you can actually ENJOY your Jag. Then maintenance and CAREFULLY or PROFESSIONALLY getting your fuel pump replaced will be typically the. Potentially routine maintenance.
A BEATER car may be a valid option while the car is inoperable, or you may want to try an engine rebuild if you feel its those 2 faulty valves on the engine, but to me I think the car may have run hot too many times and caused major internal damage. That's my opinion.

 

It's not clear from your message, but when you got it 4 months ago until now has it ever turned over and ran?

 

Firstly check the cylinder compression to see if you stand any chance or the engine is toast.
Then you said you have checked all the fuses but have you check the relays?
Good luck, they are wonderful cars when working!

 

Try pouring some gasoline into the throttle body and see if it will run. (You will need to have the air intake attached once the gas goes in. the car will not run if it's removed) If it does, you probably do not have fuel getting to the fuel rail.
Before you try to start it, turn the ignition to the run position, (before the starter engages), wait about 15-20 seconds, then push the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold it for 15-20 seconds, let it up and wait a few seconds before turning the key to start.
You might have a problem with the throttle body. Perhaps remove the connectors and spray contact cleaner in them. That pedal position connector seems especially problematic; at least on my cars it was.
Do you have an OBD checker? See what the codes are, (I take a picture of them), then clear the code before you try to start the car. If after you've poured gas into the throttle body, and it starts, sort of pump the pedal a bit and see if it continues to run. Best of luck! These cars can be a bit finnicky but relatively easy to work on.

 

In the beginning the fuel pump will run for 3 seconds then off , it will come back on by the crankshaft position sensor seeing engine rotation , safety design

The 3 second run will trap a fuel charge in the fuel lines until eaten up by injector pulses , this is not a cylinder priming

David's suggestion is the ECU knows to cut off fuel and will re establish the oil film on cylinder walls if they were placed in a bore wash condition

Relax pedal and start , after Davids step

The # 1 fuel pump can be directly powered between socket 3 to 5 of the fuel pump relay , use blade type jumper wire ends , this will drain battery with keys in pocket

 

have you seen this? It cranked, then fired, sputtered, and stopped, ne?

If not not an electrical problem, then fuel pump or clogged filter, except you changed those, ne?

Then compression: blown head gasket or broken valve or failed timing chain/tensioner. If you pull the plugs, will the engine turn; if it turns, it is not seized; While you have then plugs out; check the timing (see any thread on secondary tensioners); fresh battery charge, does it still crank over?

A final thought , you may have bore wash; while the plugs are out squirt some oil in the cylinders