any1 have any idea Wat this noise can be? it only happens like this when motor is cold. and hear a ticking in cab after a while
ty for any help

 

sounds like the bendex bearing hanging up, they get gunked up and worn and make that noise until the engine heat lets them run free. Not worth cleaning, it;ll just cone back, a rebuilt starter will solve it for good as long as you got it off.

 

You know I can get you a new starter unit from Bosch for like 190 bucks + shipping if you are interested

This link: Bosch Starter unit

 

If you have a Autozone close by there $116.00 + tax, Duralast reman, had good luck with them.

 

kool ty for the help guys. umm would that possibly cause a little ticking noise as well?

 

Ticking could be a number of things but if it's just at cold start it COULD be the Bendix hasn't withdrawn completly because it's binding because of,grime, broken/weak return spring ect. and is JUST BARELY touching on a tooth of the ring gear.vibration Heat, will let it retract after a while so the noise stops.

If it stays until the motor is almost up to temp. and changes with rpm it COULD be a exhaust leak eg. gasket,cracked exhaust manifold,EGR valve, but I haven't heard of this on Jag v6s yet so my money is on the starter Bendix.
I have heard (if yours is a manual)that the pressure plate cracks and makes a snapping sound but usually is all the time even when warm but again not on a Jag.My suggestion is start cheap(er) and eliminate what you can.

 

I agree but when it comes to ticking before going to crazy and thinking you should try different oils on your next oil change, sometimes a different oil filter.

You should never move away from Jaguar's recommended specs for the oil, for your car you can use according to alldata:

0W-30 / 5W-30 (preferred): Motul X-clean 5W30
0W-40 / 5W-40: Motul X-cess 5W40

If you are using 5W30 you could try 5W40 and see if it makes a difference. Also, I seen some low quality filters (Purolator, I had bad experiences with them) create a ticking on start-up because there is a valve inside the filter that goes bad and allows all the oil to drain down and leave the lines in the engine "dry". You try the simple stuff first, then you start thinking ticking valves, camshaft walk, etc.

 

Stay away from FRAM filters, I talked to a tech who when threw a seminar for ALL filters, he said fram uses inferior check valves and glues the end of the filters instead of crimping them, Bocsh, Wicks,Mobile 1, K&N, and any one made by Wicks are good. I tried a Fram ONCE and it leaked like a sieve, changed the next day to Bosch and never had a problem since.