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2004 Jaguar X-type ABS Warning Light

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Old 04-30-2011, 11:12 AM
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Default 2004 Jaguar X-type ABS Warning Light

Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone out there could help me troubleshoot the source of my warning lights on my 04 Jaguar X-type (Sport Pack). About a week ago the ABS warning light along with the skid control light came on in my dash after applying the brakes. I went home and shut the car down for the night and the next morning when I came out and started my car only my check engine light was on, however after driving the car and after multiple times applying the brakes the ABS and skid control light came back on (as well as check engine light). This seems to be the typical pattern. I have read other posts on the forum about a possible sensor going bad in the wheel well. I was wondering if anyone had a detailed troubleshooting technique to find the exact sensor (resistance readings etc?). Another symptom is now my cruise control does not work. I am an electrical engineer by trade and know how to use a DMM and I am pretty good at troubleshooting. I would greatly appreciate any info. Thanks!
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:26 PM
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jrock, the sensors are a hall effect sensor. So, a simple resistance check isn't going to tell you anything. But, if you want to check them, you can pull the sensor out, connect a multimeter (on a 2 VDC scale) to the 2 pins and then while holding the sensor near the edge of the table, pass a screw driver near the tip of the sensor (1/4" or less, closer is better). If you see the multimeter jump, then the sensor is good.

Odds are, what your problem is centering around is one of the sensor gears in the rear end is bad (they tend to rust and break into pieces). You can remove the sensors on the rear wheels and look down the hole with a flash light. If you can see a toothed gear, that one is good. If you can't see a gear, then you need a new hub assembly.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
jrock, the sensors are a hall effect sensor. So, a simple resistance check isn't going to tell you anything. But, if you want to check them, you can pull the sensor out, connect a multimeter (on a 2 VDC scale) to the 2 pins and then while holding the sensor near the edge of the table, pass a screw driver near the tip of the sensor (1/4" or less, closer is better). If you see the multimeter jump, then the sensor is good.

Odds are, what your problem is centering around is one of the sensor gears in the rear end is bad (they tend to rust and break into pieces). You can remove the sensors on the rear wheels and look down the hole with a flash light. If you can see a toothed gear, that one is good. If you can't see a gear, then you need a new hub assembly.

Hope this helps.
Do you happen to have a guide on how to remove these sensors from the rear wheels and possibly a part number?
 
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:01 AM
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Removing the sensor is no more than removing a 6mm bolt (as I recall) and then pulling the sensor straight out. As for a part number, give Nalley Jaguar (sponsor here) a call and they will be able to get your the part you need at a good price.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:31 PM
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Alright guys, here is an update to my problem and I hope someone can help me fix this issue. I went and got the codes pulled at the local Autozone with the ABS, DSC and CE lights on. The code pulled was C1165 (RR wheel speed sensor). The Autozone employee tried to clear the faults but he said it wouldn't let him?. However when he disconnected the OBDII scanner the check engine light was off and the ABS and DSC light came imediately on before moving the car. I then drove two miles down the road to advanced auto and had them pull the code which was P1165 (pending RR wheel speed sensor error). I then went home and while driving the check engine light came on. I was fed up so I went in for the night.

The next day I went down and removed the right rear wheel and checked the ring on the outer CV joint and everything looked intact and good. I removed the wheel speed sensor from the wheel well and their were tiny bits of rusted steel on the sensor that I removed (might have been interfering with the signal?). I then replaced everything and turned on the car. The only thing on was my check engine light. I then drove a couple miles down the road and the ABS and DSC lights came back on. I gave up and called it a day.

The next day I came out to my car and turned it on (not moving it) and abs and dsc light was off but CE light still on. I removed my rear seat cushion and found the wheel speed sensor connectors for both left and right rear. I used 4 push needles from my wife's sewing kit to access the pins while the connectors were still inline with the ABS module. Using my digital multimeter I then figured out that the white wire was power (14V) and the black wire was the pulsed square wave. I drove around a little bit with the DMM hooked to the rear speed sensor and then the ABS and DSC lights came on and the ABS module shut power off to the RR wheel speed sensor (no more troubleshooting for that day).

I then came out the next day and decided to monitor both signal lines for the wheel speed sensors. Luckily over night the ABS and DSC lights extinguished which provided power back to the RR wheel speed sensor. Utilizing my dual channel oscilloscope, I confirmed that both left and right sensors were receiving ~14V from the abs module (white wire) and sending back a pulse square wave (black wire) at a frequency dependent on wheel speed (32 pulses per revolution). Driving around showed that both wheel speed sensors were providing the exact same frequency. I drove all the way to work (~8 miles) with no ABS or DSC warning lights (just check engine). I then came out from work ~8 hours later and as soon as I turned the car on the ABS and DSC lights turned back on and the power was shut off to the RR wheel speed sensor (had not moved at all). I drove home and went in for the night.

The next morning (today) the exact same thing happened. I turned on the car and had no ABS or DSC warning lights and power was provided to the RR wheel speed sensor and the signal looked great. I drove 8 miles to work and shut my car off. I came back out 8 hours later and turned on my car only to see the ABS and DSC warning lights pop back on before even driving the car.

Now as you can see I have done some in depth troubleshooting. I hope a jaguar tech can help me in finding the solution to the problem. I know that the wheel speed sensor and ABS sensor ring on the cv joint is good because I get a valid signal when power is applied to the sensor, so I can rule that out. The only thing that I can think of is if there is a problem in the wiring from the connector where I am probing up to the ABS module computer? Or am I not driving long enough with a valid RR wheel speed sensor signal for the computer to reset itself? Any insight is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:57 PM
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jrock, well, based on what you are describing, you have 1 of 2 issues. I would recommend reperforming the checks at the ABS computer and seeing what the signals look like there. If you have bad signals there, then you know your problem is in the wiring between the rear connectors and the computer. If you are getting good signals at the computer, then you have a bad ABS computer.

You have a leg up on most people having the O-scope. HOpefully it is something easy to fix and not too expensive.
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:51 PM
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When I pulled the code on Monday afternoon after work I got a P1000 and and a C1165. The P1000 is: System OBD check not clear since last memory clear. Is it possible that in the morning the system has reset and is trying to perform an OBDII drive cycle and since I am only driving highway for 8 miles it does not complete the drive cycle (system checks)? Therefore when I come out of work and turn on the key it instantly turns off power to that sensor since it did not get to testing it? Is this crazy or does it make sense?

Does anyone have the proper OBDII drive cycle for the Jaguar X-type to remove the P1000 code?
 
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:47 PM
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jrock, it is possible that you are loosing the battery power connection (maintains the stored information when the car is off) and because that line is grounded, it is causing the ABS computer to act funky. That is about all that I could come up with. That can be verified by simple DMM checks. I would tell you which wire to hook up to on the ABS module, but I am on travel at the moment and don't have my JTIS info with me. BUt, anyone else with a JTIS should be able to help you out with that.

As for clearing the P1000 code, pretty much by driving the car about 10-15 miles, that will clear the P1000 code. The computer needs to see a finite number of stops and starts along with a number of engine revolutions (10,000 pops into my head). Again, if you are loosing the battery power to the ECU (different computer from the ABS unit), it would be perpetually giving you the P1000 codes. But then, by clearing the codes from the computer, you are also resetting the P1111 codes, which will default you back to P1000.
 
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