Please help.. I had to replace my motor to my jag 2003 X-Type awd. I have help with some one pumping the brakes but I'm not getting any where.. I'm bleeding them as I always have with releasing valve and filling cylinder but I'm not getting no where. Still filled with air. I have no leaks and I'm 99% sure cylinder is in perfect condition. Does anyone have any suggestions please.. I had to do everything myself and I'm so tired. Only car I have payments on and it's been 5 months working on it. Runs great but absolutely no brakes.. Thanks all..

 

Welcome to the forum Lori,

I've moved your question from X350 to X-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

I think I replied to your question in the overheating thread..

AnyWay..On my X I bleed the brakes several times, nothing tricky to it at all.....I will assume that you bleed the system correctly by starting at the right rear wheel, then to the left rear, then to the right front, and last the left front...Did you close off the bleed nipple before the brake pedal was released after each pump of the pedal? (very important, even with a hose on the nipple, air will get sucked back in from around the nipple threads.)

Last thing, it could be is your Master Cylinder is bad.

 

Hi Lori


I agree with DPK, start with the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder, Ideally its a 2 man job, one to pump the peddle each time and one to open and close the bleed nipple. You can use a tight fitting rubber tube and jam jar if you haven't got a bleed setup, put one end of the tube on the nipple on the calliper and the other end in the jar of brake fluid, ensure the end of the tube in the jar is submerged in fluid constantly. The bleed has to be done in coordination push the brake peddle to the floor with the calliper bleed nipple opened and hold it there until the nipple has been closed, then let the brake peddle up.
continue to do this until all the air has been removed from that part of the line / calliper then move to the next furthest brake from the master cylinder and do it again, until you have gone right round the car. Make sure every 2 or 3 pumps of the peddle you top the master cylinder up again as you will let air in the system again if not.
This should do the trick for you

 

On some cars that I have done it is important to release the break pedal slowly. This is because air can get sucked in around the seal on the master cylinder. Letting the pedal up too fast on that car (not my X-type which I have never done) caused a vacuum in the system which drew in the air. Another way that I bleed the system is by pushing the slave cylinders in with a C clamp. On the X-type this will work on the front wheel calipers but not the rear wheel cylinders because of the emergency break mechanism. Pete.

 

I use a Mighty-vac to bleed my brakes; you place the adapter on the nipple, pump up the vacuum, then crack the bleeder. It makes short work of the job!


There os another option, but pricey for what it is; you can replace the bleeder nipple with a one-way valve; when the pedal is pumped, the air and fluid will come out, but the air can't get back in. They are about $10 apiece, though.

 

I bleed the brake by myself; Use a bar clam, push the brake peddle down by the fix jaw, extend the movable jaws out against the front edge of the seat, it will hold the brake peddle down, then go to the brake close the bleeding nipple, work every times.