So I recently posted a thread on here searching for repair advice on my front door lock actuators. In this pursuit I reset the GECM and I noticed afterwards that my dome lights, courtesy lights, and all functionality on these lights have ceased. When unlocking the car they should turn on, they don't. Their buttons are useless as well for operation. All at once, including the door courtesy lights. All exterior lights work still fine, as do the console lights and dash. I'm guessing the GECM reset did something for sure, any ideas?

 

Georgio, let me know what year car you have (if a 2004, give me the build month/year as this affects what wiring harness you have, this info is in the driver's door jam). I will look up on the diagrams that I have to give you a list of potential problems and we can then narrow things down from there.

On a side note, if a set of diagrams would be something you are interested in, send me a PM with your e-mail addy and I will send you a copy of the diagrams.

 

So my car is a 2002 x type, 2.5 litre. I also noticed today out of the blue my AC unit has gone out. It's the one with the electronic screen and auto mode, not dials and not touchscreen. So that system, turning on and appearing to work isn't actually blowing anything. Along with the dome lights not turning on inside, or my courtesy lights. I'm thinking fuse blown when I reset the GECM. everything else is working fine, it definitely all started after I reset it because it all worked before. Do I need to reprogram these things or something? Or is it a fuse etc? Help please!

 

Georgio, first things first. Check fuse F99 under the dash to make sure that the fuse is still good. It should be a 10 amp fuse. Next, look on top of fuse F99. You should see 2 small silver tabs there recessed slightly below the top of the fuse. Using a multimeter, put the black lead on any metal part of the car and the red lead on each of the silver tabs while monitoring for 12 VDC. Did you get 12 VDC on both tabs? If you got 12 VDC on only one, then the fuse is bad. If you got it on both, then the problem is related to the GEM module and the power cycle hurt it some how. If you are getting 0 VDC on both tabs, I want you to swap relays R21 and R17 in the dash fuse box. Do your lights come back now? If yes, the relay that is now in the R17 position is bad and you will need to get a replacement. If no, then your problem is related to the GEM module not activating the Battery Saver relay (Relay R21).

Just to do a little problem expansion and trying to see what all may be affected, I want you to try 2 things for me. The first thing is simply trying to lock and unlock the doors. Does this work fine? If yes, then this helps to bring the problem back to having a bad relay. If no, then this is again pointing back to the GEM module. The second thing is to turn on the car and roll down 1 or more windows. Turn the car off and get out. Using the key, insert it into the driver's door and turn the key to the lock position and hold it there. Do the windows roll up after having the key turned for about 2-3 seconds? If yes, this again proves that the GEM module is more than likely not the problem. If the windows do not roll up, this points back to the GEM module.

 

okay those diagrams would indeed be super helpful, I'll go through these steps and let you know what happens.

 

My locks actually work fine with the exception of the front front ones who both have broken actuators, this was occurring before the issues with the lights and AC. In fact I reset the GECM in hopes of possibly fixing my locks on the off chance it worked. Windows and sunroof also work well, I'll the key rolling up the window along with the other instructions you provided today.

 

Jaguar Gods be praised, T'Challah almighty. It was a simple blown fuse as I suspected F99 had gone out and a quick fuse change corrected that. Thanks so much for your help kind sir. @Thermo

 

Good to hear that it was a simple fix. PM me your e-mail addy and when I get home from work, I will send the drawings your way.

 

Hi!

I have similar problem, but only with door courtesy lights.
They are not working.
All other interior lightning is working just fine.
I've got +12V on both tabs, both doors.

Any advice would be helpful...

 

Sobrus, I don't have the diagrams in front of me at the moment, but all the interior lights are powered off of a common power wire. So, if you only have a few lights not working (especially if they are separated like you have since you have 2 door lights that are not working), this would most likely be either a bad bulb or a bad bulb base. Since you mention that you have 12 VDC on the tabs for both doors, this would lead me to believe that you have bad bulb bases. I would first try taking a small screw driver and gently prying the metal tabs out slightly to guarantee a good electrical connection between the bulb base and the bulb itself. Next, with a good bulb installed in a base, measure the voltage on both tabs again. If you have 12 VDC on both tabs, then you have a bad ground wire. If you have 0 VDC on both, then the power wire feeding both bulbs is bad. If you have 12 VDC on one and 0 VDC on the other, then you have a bad bulb or a bad bulb base.

 

Hey thermo quick question, what bulbs are fitted into the low beams in our headlight assemblies? All the charts say H1, but it definitely isn't an H1, those are the main beams and high beams. The bulb I'm talking about is the inner bulb in the upper right on our headlight assemblies. Mine would be for a 2002 X-Type if that matters. It's a smaller looking bulb, i've heard it's maybe a 5w5 but i couldn't even get the damn thing out it felt like it was glued in there so I didn't want to break my headlight supports by pulling it out. Is there a trick to getting them out too? And what kind of bulb is it? Thanks Thermo in advance.

 

Thanks for quick reply. I've been looking at diagrams and the only difference I see between door lights and the rest of interior lightning is that doors are connected to GECM using cable number 1 (OG) and the rest using cable number 3 (BK) in CA86 connector.
On the relay side they're all connected to F99.

The bulbs are good, I've even tried to put new LED there (both polarities tested) but didn't help. I've disconnected plugs and tested connectors with multimeter and there's +12V on both tabs, so there's no way it can work.

The only idea that I have currently is that door lights are disabled in GECM.
Maybe connecting wire 1 (OG) to wire 3(BK) will do the trick and all lights will come up together ...

 

If I understand you correctly it is W5W bulb (5 watt).
And yes, you have to use force
to pull it out, but once you do it, they will go out much easier next time.

 

Georgio, to get the driving light (the small bulb on the inner headlight assembly) out, what you will need to do is to stick both hands into the headlight assembly or be really tricky with your one hand. What you will want to do is to gently push against the headlight lens with the same force you are using to pull on the bulb base. Gentle twisting of the small bulb will help work it out. A little bit of twisting will get the bulb out. LIke was mentioned, installing it the next time will be much easier, but you still don't want to put a lot of force on the headlight assembly.

As a side note, a W5W bulb is a 194 bulb. Different names, same part.

 

sobrus, you are correct. From what you are describing, it looks like the GEM Module is starting to fail. Granted, I would still recommend removing the bulb and connecting a multimeter between the orange/green wire and chassis ground while measuring resistance. What you should see is with the interior lights off, that should have a very high resistance (more than 2K). When you open a door and the lights come on, the resistance should drop to a very low value (under 10 ohms). Once you prove that the problem is ground related, you will need to remove the plug from the GEM module and do a continuity check of the orange/green wire. If that resistance is low (less than 10 ohm), this will confirm a bad GEM module. If it is high (greater than 2K), then you have an open orange/green wire. Either problem will cause the light to have the voltages that you are seeing if the bulb is installed.

 

Thanks, I will try to do it.
It is possible that this is disabled by software?
Or that my car has newer GECM module (after 2004 - when puddle lights were dropped)?

I have this car since 2014 and these lights have never worked for me (I thought they were just reflectors).

I see that I can buy another GECM for as low as $5... but probably it needs to be programmed at dealer (keys, ecu, immobiliser?)....am I right?

 

sobrus, getting a used car, it is hard to say what has and has not been done to it. This is where if you look on the GEM, you should see a part number. The beginning of it should state either "1X43" or "4X43". The 1X43 refers normally to the early production vehicles and the 4X43 refers to the post electrical upgrade cars.

As for disabling the puddle lights, that is beyond what I normally play with. If I had that capability, I would be a very dangerous man with a vehicle. Hence why I know where my line is and I try not to cross it (atleast not all that often, gotta have some fun some times).

 

Thanks Thermo.
Since everything was looking alright and circuit continuity (with bulb inserted) was good, I decided to hardwire CA86 connector wire 1 to 3.

Now, door lights are working exactly the same as the rest of interior lightning.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but at least simple and working.

My interior lightning incuding doors is LED so there should be less current on wire 3 than normally is.

 

sobrus, many ways to resolve the issue. Shame that you had to resort to that. I am curious where you made the change between wire 1 and 3 (at the GEM or at one of the lights).

 

At the CA86 connector wires, change is revertable.