Since the weather has changed to cooler conditions, my 2002 x-type does not want to run. Feels like it is missing on all cylinders and the brake pedal is stiff. ABS and engine lights are on. I took it to a local shop to read the codes and after reading misfires on cylinders 1-6, they said it was the Brake Booster Vacuum check valve. Vacuum leak somewhere. They can't get one.
First, does that sound right and second, where can I purchase one. How much $ ? I live in Ohio.
Thanks in advance.

 

Brake booster vacuum line
You can get one line for $63.00 +s&h ( parts Geek) or the dealer, either way there spendy, some have coated them with epoxy to seal the check valve that seams to deteriorate. If you remove it from the intake be careful there is a small O ring and a locking mechanism that will break if pulled on.,They say to push down on the outer ring and pull on the pipe(didn't work for me). I would buy this too, it;s called Chinese handcuffs by some but the dealer calls it a vacuum adapter.After you remove the line the O Ring will leak and there about $15.00. DO NOT use the brass part that's in the kit just the O Ring and locker. Did they mention the PVC hose that cracks on the bottom, that is always suspect with vacuum type codesHope this give you a starting point!

 

Thanks Billbjork.
I just ordered the part. Hope it arrives tomorrow. I will update you when installed.
Anything else I need to know about the installation? I will be changing the hose as well.
Thanks again.

 

Just replaced the brake booster vacuum check valve. When I pulled the hose off the brake booster, I heard a lot of air. Did that mean there was a good vacuum? Anyway, after replacing the part I still had issues. The car started then stalled. Now it is acting like it is starving for fuel. Any suggestions...please. Is there another possible vacuum leak somewhere? Help. Thanks

 

This is what I just replaced.

 

7cookies, try this: Get into the car and turn the key to the RUN position (do not take it to the START position). Wait a few seconds and then roll it to the START position. Did this help the car start easier and seem to make the stuttering go away? If so, then that would confirm a fuel pump issue. If not, I would be looking at the PCV valve hose for a likely failure.

 

7
I would have the codes cleared( autozone for free) or do it yourself if you got a scan tool. Then I would run it and see what codes come back. If any PO174s or any lean codes come up you still have a vacuum leak. Have you replaced the two tuning port O Rings(facing engine,two black round plastic units on the plentum left side with connections on them), they both CAN be removed WITHOUT dismantling any other part, the lower one has to be turned just right but they come out. another thing you can do is with the engine idling spray some carb clean around any vacuum connection or hose and see if the RPM changes keeping it away from the exhaust manifold.You can use WD40 also but it's messier but has a higher flash point.

 

Thanks Thermo. No change in starting when I rolled the key to start. That was when the air temp and car was cold. 4 hours later and now 50 degrees outside the car started fine. It acts like it is starving for gas. Could it be a vacuum issue at a fuel rail?

 

Thanks.
I will check these 2 o rings out tomorrow. If you have a picture, that might help me locate them. Thanks for all the steps. In cold weather it seems to be starving for gas. When the outside temp went up to 50 the car started and ran fine. ???? mystery for me.

 

7cookies, check out "Jaguar Parts" - Jaguar parts and accessories catalog. They are a Jag dealership out of Cleveland. They can get you the parts you need for a decent price. Granted, you can also check out JPLV (Guadin Jaguar in Las Vegas) and they have good prices too and will get you what you need quickly.

 

THESE are the two tuning ports

 

Changed my O rings last night. The outside temp was 63 degrees. Car started fine and ran fine until about a half mile into my drive, I decided to push the gas pedal down. It started to stall and then down shift. I let off the gas and it was fine. Drove around for another 1-2 miles and then let it sit. After about an hour I drove it again. It ran great. Punched it and it took off, no stalling. 45 degrees outside this morning and it sputtered once then ran fine. I don't know if I fixed it or not? ABS and engine lights are on. No cruise available light came on then off, twice. Ideas ?

 

If you still have stuttering issues and engine lights on it is not fixed. Best thing would be to have the codes read and post the code numbers here and I bet it could be diagnosed right away for you. Does it hesitate when it gets over 3K RPMs where it is going into limp mode?

 

I am having the same problem when starting in cold weather (55-60 degrees), but in addition, it's acting as if I have no vacuum assist on braking. Once warmed up, all problems subside. Also, when very cold (40-50 degrees), really, really rough. Would this narrow it down to the vacuum assist check valve.

 

jjjyuma
I had the same issue here is what I did. I replaced brake booster line and O ring on the plentum, replaced tuning port O rings, upper intake O rings and still had an issue, replaced the LOWER intake O rings and the problem disappeared, as long as it was apart the valve cover gaskets and O rings were replaced too because there was oil around the spark plugs. I have a lazy O2 sensor that causes some issues but other than that she purrs, brakes are solid.

 

jjjyuma
Also my mileage jumped from 24.5 highway to 30.5 freeway trips of 140 miles or less

 

Alfadude,
I will run and post the codes tomorrow. The problem starts in the cold weather, and between 2-3K RPM. I can be at 30-40MPH and kick it down and when it is cold, it stutters, down shifts and I let up. When above 50 degrees, purrs and run great. ??? I'll get the codes tomorrow. Thanks

 

OK,
I had the codes cleared and then ran the car for a couple of days. No issues but it has been mild temps outside (above 50). Engine and ABS lights are on.
Codes are: C1155, P0171, P0174.
What do I check now? MAF sensor, O2 sensor, still vacuum leak???
Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks. I tinker a lot with small engines (lawnmowers, carbs, etc.). I'm sure I can handle this thing, but where would I find the lower intake O-rings. Is that the thing I found identified as (2) IMT O-rings. Is there a technical name?
Thanks again.
By the Way. that's about what I get, 25. Really be nice to jump to 30 mpg.

 

Yuma, what you are after is the lower plenum o-rings. The local auto parts store will have them if you ask for the parts for a Lincoln LS 3.0L. It is the same part, just not with the Jaguar name on it. A set is like $25. You can also ask for the upper plenum (possibly called intake manifold) o-rings. Again, you will need to ask for the parts from the Lincoln.

That should take care of you. Getting to them is not that difficult, just have to be ready to remove a fair amount of stuff to get down far enough. BUt, things come off in fairly large chunks. You can leave the fuel injectors installed on the lower plate.