My stomach is still in knots after the news i got today. I made a thread a little while back about a tick/knock sound coming from the bellhousing. Took it to 3 shops and they all leaned towards the flex plate. Had plans to have a shop fix it today but over the weekend, FRIDAY, to be exact when i was on my way home from work i had the radio blasting as usual. Then i kinda felt the car learch a little and instantly caught my attention so i turned the radio off. The sound was SO wickedly bad i had to pull over. Sounded as if i was dragging something and the oil light started flickering. Shut her down and decided whether or not i should push it into traffic and just let it get demolished!!! ANYWHO....i had it towed home and then monday had it towed to the shop where i figured the flex plate must have shattered. No big deal. Same price and BS. WRONG!!!!!!!! He calls me back and says sorry to be the bearer of bad news but its your engine!!! You have all sorts of metal shavings and flakes in your oil!!!! He said it must have been a rod on that side that was sound traveling to the bellhousing and finally broke!!!!!

WTF do i do now guys? I dont have a lot of money as im payin my way thru Law Enforcement school with no loans. And have little money to work with. I guess what im askin you guys, anyone with a sense of engine building. Whoever has replaced the engine or rebuilt it, what route would you go? I do have an engine guy that would rebuild it. Im pretty auto savvy and could pull it myself with a little help from the Forum.

Please guys, let me know your input or what you think i should do. Ive seen a few threads made on pullin the engine and rebuilding it. But i just want you guys to chime in and tell me what you would do.


Thanks a million guys,
Dave

 

Another thing i was wondering is, what year engine was the best if i decide to get used? Is there even a better year? I know the 3.0 was from 02-08 or something. Should i look for a newer one like 06-08? Or does it even matter.

 

Rebuilding an engine in this day and age is very difficult and pricey (unless it is a big lump or boat anchor like a chevy 350 or Ford 351 that there are zillions of aftermarket parts available for keeping the cost down. I would rather suggest picking up a used engine from a place like www.car-part.com and then resealing it and replace the water pump before putting it in. I've always been one to stick with the year you take it out of just because of the subtle changes that might have happened on engine mapping, sensors etc.

 

First of al, I would like to say sorry to hear that man, I Know it sucks having a broken car, especially when going to school and paying for yourself through it.

I have a few different recommendations. You could do a few things here, I hear to ford 3.0 are the same block as ours, ours is just a heavely modified form of it. So, there fore you could start with the block, if yours is done or now, and just salvage the engine parts that havnt been damaged by the shavings.

A complete replacement engine- which i think is around 5-8 grand

try to find something else that fits, or cut your losses...

 

Yea ive been skimming through the FAQ of pullin the engine and seein the rebuild end of it. I think ill go the used ingine route. As far as stickin with the same year, its possible, but may not be able to. Ive come across a few on ebay and will also look at the site you listed benebob. Disco your right about the block but like i said i think it may just be easier to drop her out and attach another used one to it and plug it back in. Obviously not as easy as it sounds but just the direction im lookin.

 

I 3, I say get a rebuilt one and go from there. Should be able to get the motor swapped for around $2000 (1000 for the motor, 1000 for install assuming you friend will give you a cut in the price). Sorry to hear the bad news. maybe you can break down the old engine and get some of your money back out by selling the heads and whatnot. Just a thought.

 

Thanks THERMO,

What would you think a shop would charge to take it out and install another one? Just curious, as im goin to have knee surgery soon. I have my eye on a 2005 3.0 with 27000 miles on it for 1100 bucks. How hard is it realisticly to swap motors? Ive worked on mustangs, mainly fox bodies for a long time and i know thats easy compared to the Jag. LOL. But just using some info from the forum am i lookin at a weeks worth or a month? Id say im an average mechanic maybe slightly higher. Most say im pretty good with a wrench but im no book smart guy. LOL

 

That would be another question too, when i get another engine, what would be a good idea to replace while its out? Benebob says waterpump. Any other things that should be tended too? Figure i would check the oil pan gasket and hoses wiring and what not. Any known sensors that go bad?

Just want some heads up on it while im bustin my *** doin the swap as i obviously do not wish to work on it after its done. LOL.

 

Sorry to hear that. I just replaced my engine about a month ago. I got an used engine from an 05. It cost me $ 4k installed with 12 month warranty.

 

Damn dude ;( Well so far ive seen a few engines from 1200 to 1800. Reall y got my eye on an 05 with 27000 miles on it. Goin to call tomorrow. If i get that one and go over everything, doubt to much would need replacing, i will try and install it. But i am curious how much a shop would charge.

 

Hi there, sorry to hear bout your issues

Dunno if you've checked but there are some definitive engine rebuild threads on the X type as done by Jfenley and also by 310......These threads have absolutely every bit of info you could hope for

 

I was lookin over those threads actually. Basically to see how to pull it. Im not sure if i wanna go the route of a rebuild. I wonder how much everything cost after it was all said and done? I have a guy buddy that will rebuild it. But after finding metal shavings and stuff im sure ill need block work. Guess it all depends. My mind is a wreck right now. Id honestly like to find the guy that sold it to me and beat his face in. But he was smart and changed his number and we made the deal elsewhere. I didnt hear the noise when i bought it. But noticed it after an oil change cuz i didnt believe he did one when he said. And the oil looked pretty heavy. Didnt think much of it. Just remembered thinkin it. AAAhhhh anyway...just a pain in the ***

 

I 3, as for what to do before sticking the used engine in, I would probably do the oil pan gasket just because. It is one of those things that it can go yesterday, it can go in 5 years. You never know. But, it would more than likely save you a lot of money in the long run due to being able to access the pan at that point vice the major disassembly later.

As for time, you are probably looking at about 16 hours of labor. To remove the engine, essentially you are having to drop the engine out the bottom of the car (it doesn't come out the top). With how a lot of the modern day motors are done, the big thing is getting all the stuff off from underneath. From the top, you simply undo a few plugs, disconnect a few things (intake, fuel lines, few vacuum lines) and down the motor goes. The big thing is pulling the half shafts and disconnecting the exhaust. But, depending on the mechanic, he may just leave the halfshafts installed in the transfer case to save on time later. Just makes moving the transfer case around a bit more difficult.

 

Thermo, yea you answered some of the questions i was hopin for. So its not a total nightmare. And yes, once i get the new engine ill replace the oil pan gasket and check the VVT rings and whatnot.

Im also assuming a rebuild is just way to much. Kinda lookin at some of the prices from the the guys that have done rebuilds on here and it doesnt look cheap. Compared to the older cars.

So as it sits, ill call tomorrow and see about that low mileage engine and maybe call a few shops to see what they would charge. Mainly for motivation as im sure it wont be cheap. LOL. Helps me through the process as i wanna punch something while doin the job but then think hey, im savin 1200+

Still tryin to come to grips, and i will still keep my name as I <3 X-types. LOL. Just wanna get her back on the road. Miss it already.

 

I 3, I'd go for that 27k motor or a rebuilt one. Trying to fix your current one means you'll have to identify what's wrong with it to cause the meltdown. Might be easy, then again it might not be so clear cut. In any case, it's an unknown until you're inside it and can look it over real well.

Incidently, are you here in the Detroit area?



Wonder if that explains why my oil pan is dripping with oil all the time. Hm-m ...

 

Hey 49er...yes i grew up in Warren but livin in St Clair Shores now. Your not to far. And yes you have a valid point on tryin to figure out where it all went wrong. Sometimes its noticable and sometimes its not. Either way i would have to redo everything to be sure. Pretty costly. Im goin for the 27000 engine just because it comes with a 6 month warranty. The ONLY downside is they said they noticed a small crack in the timing cover and intake. Came from a salvage car obviously and doesnt scare me to much as i would def go through it all prior. I have a guy that builds these type of engines that would go over it with a fine tooth comb when i get it. Simply use my timing cover and intake. Sounds pretty good to me. Im also goin to pull the oil pan to change the gasket and kinda poke around in it also. I want to feel confident when it goes back in.

If all goes well ill have my cat back on the road looking sweet and purrin like she should
If it goes wrong, well its under warranty and will prolly drown myself in alcohol a few nights and tackle it again. Im determined to keep this car.

Thanks everyone for the help. You guys rock.


Dave

 

I 3, the problem with the newer engines is that a lot of the tolerances are very tight (normally within say 0.002"). So, even normal wear in the cylinders involves you boring the cylinders out say 0.010", which then requires oversized pistons........ You can see where this one is going. This is one of the downsides to the higher tech engines. Not to mention you have some interesting metal combinations to get the proper sealing during warm-ups. I'm not saying it can't be done as people have done it. But, you need to make sure you rebuild the engine with very exacting parts.

Personally, I would get the used engine in there and then take the old motor and make it a science project. Tear it apart, see what makes it tick. If it isn't too bad, then you can rebuild it and either sell it for a nice chunk of money or stick it into your car and then sell off the used engine to someone else. Then you can do a few things to the rebuilt engine to make it a bit more friendly with the mileage (porting/polishing the intake/heads/throttlebody, etc).

 

Valid point as always THERMO

Thats my plan now as im currently tryin to get the 27000 mile engine. Once i get that one im pretty sure ill stick that one in and then tear down the broken one and more than likely sell off the parts. To be quite honest i will make it a point to keep it and use it to help out fellow members of the forum if they need parts from it. Granted the engine im gettin will not come with extras like starter and that damn THROTTLE BODY!!! LOL. But who knows what someone may need.

 

Good move. Much better to get the used engine than rebuilt your original. More cost effective and less troubleshooting.

I'm kind of surprised yours went out, typically the engines in these cars are very stout and reliable. So sorry to hear of your troubles.

I agree with Thermo 100% on the oil pan gasket, you definitely want to put a new one in before it is installed. Also check the exhaust downpipe, it's in the way of the oil pan anyway (if it is still on your new used motor that is). If your old motor has high miles, I'd also grab the cats from the newer motor as well. 27,000 miles that thing is like brand new.

 

A cracked intake and timing cover on the used engine that you are looking at.I would not touch this engine myself.Was it overheated?Why would the intake crack?Not a Jaguar person by choice,was given mine.So do not know the why this or that in Ford/Jaguar engines as of yet.But buying a used engine with bad parts on it that you can see.That would to me mean the internals are far worse.Pull the dip stick and see if it smells burnt or if it got so hot the oil end of the dip stick is stained/burnt looking.
If your original engine does not have a window aka hole, in the block from a rod coming loose,I myself would fix it.It you ever resale the car one day it is always nice to have the original parts in it unless it is some how a upgrade you have done.And even then you have limited your buying group that would be interested in the car.
Yes they may say that they will replace the used engine if this or that goes bad.First off good luck with that.Read just what they are saying that they will do??And not have them say that your existing troubles are why the replacement engine went bad.
Not to mention all the gaskets,new oil pump I would hope and parts needed to get the new used engine ready to install in your car.That you will be out and have to do over.You would need the same parts i am guessing and might need even more to fix your original engine.But would not be out the cost and the 50-50 chance that you get with a used engine.That no one knows the history of.A engine tear down gasket kit with new head gaskets and one factory rod with rod bearings and a new oil pump is a given.
I do not know your engine so do not know what gets oil from the oil pump first.But I would be wondering and check out your old oil pump and the used crapper oil pump that you end up with if you go used engine.
But if you only have a broken rod,the crank may still be good if turned?
All you do is once the engine is out put it on a stand and pull the oil pan and see what you see.If lots of metal in the oil you need to rebuild or replace the oil pump.Pending what it looks like.NEVER put a used oil pump on a engine that has had metal go through it,without going thought the oil pump first to be sure it is clean and still can maintain proper oil pressure.
When buying a used engine you almost need a engine test stand to put the beast on and run it and see what kind of oil pressure it has,cylinder compression,engine running temp and so on.Before you do all the work of installing a engine that you know NOTHING about.Sure they will replace it for free but you will be out bucks in gaskets and labor to r&r a engine again.
That is my 2 cents on it.You car your choice.I wish you the best.If you did not keep driving the car as soon as it happened,you can get real lucky!
I would 100% look at yours before you buy any parts or replacement engine.A used engine that has sat may have frozen rings to the cylinder walls.See if you can turn it over by hand with a long breaker bar before you buy also.Look at the spark plugs in the used engine and it will till you how the engine ran before it was parked.

I WOULD ONLY GO WITH A USED ENGINE IF I WAS TO DUMP THE CAR ON SOME ONE.And could even offer them the 6 month deal for a great selling point!

I reread what you said and the ticking sound was the rod bearing.You spun a rod bearing is my guess.So a crank kit would be needed.Also BIG POINT A LINE BORE WILL BE NEEDED ON THE BLOCK IF BEARING SPUN.Caps because it can be a big screw up if you just put new bearings in it thinking all will be ok,wrong!!Pull heads.take engine 100% apart.That is still the rout that I would go.I would also go with good head gaskets.Not the crappy set i would guess that they sell in a engine gasket tear down kit.May need to retoque the heads after engine warm up.This would be because of aluminum heads and a cast iron block.The 2 different metals heat up at a different rate.I do not know if it has aluminum heads and block with steel sleeves in it??.Know you engine.More fun I think.You said that you had a buddy that will help or do it all.If you have the time,go for it.
How do you know how many miles are on a used engine?Them guys are such rip offs that is why they offer the 6 month deal.Just to make you jump on the deal.If the new used engine blows.No sweat off them.They pay Jimmy or who ever to go out and pull another one for you.If it is in a car with the gauge cluster still, i would not trust it being the original gauge cluster to the car.Trust no one in life.It sucks but its true.Or I should say only trust a few,but then what few is it without leaning the hard way?Go with your gut.
But wanted to say that tick tick sound you heard at first was the rod bearing going out.Due to lack of oil or over revving the engine,dirty oil.Can be many reasons.I spun one in 78 in a new engine because the dumb dumb want to be engine builder was nothing but a parts changer.Measured nothing and the clearance for the rod bearing was to much.So of course as soon as I got on it the puppy spun.Going tick tick tick.But I shut the car down and pulled the engine before anything came apart or broke.Ended up needing a new crank.Block line bored because of the spun bearing.And had all the rods resized because the bearing had enlarged the one rod,they have to make them all match.
Cool as far as the engine comes out the bottom of the cars.That is how Mother Mother did things as well.Makes it a lot easier!
Also wanted to add that the engine oil light had come on because the oil could no longer maintain pressure through out the engine.A rod bearing having to much clearance.Oil bled out rather then push oil through the rest of the engines little tiny ports.I wonder if the oil light comes on when 0 oil pressure.I call them a idiot light.They are good for nothing.A real oil pressure gauge is a safe way of going if you run hard.