Changing transfer case bearing without removal of TC
#1
Changing transfer case bearing without removal of TC
I have a leaky and noisy transfer case. Recently, I found a thread where the poster had removed and replaced the bearing without pulling the transfer case from the car. He claimed that the noise problem was solved. And, if I remember correctly, that the bearings did not need new shims, he re-used the old ones, without problems.
Since my transfer case has 100K miles on it and it did run a bit low on fluid (before I owned the car), I either need to replace the entire transfer case or I need to repair it.
I thought the thread was on this forum, but I can't find it. I've been searching without results.
Any thoughts on if the rear bearing is the common noise maker? Can it actually be replaced in situ?
Thanks,
Chris
Since my transfer case has 100K miles on it and it did run a bit low on fluid (before I owned the car), I either need to replace the entire transfer case or I need to repair it.
I thought the thread was on this forum, but I can't find it. I've been searching without results.
Any thoughts on if the rear bearing is the common noise maker? Can it actually be replaced in situ?
Thanks,
Chris
#3
OK, thanks for the input. I am a qualified mechanic and if the job can be done, I can probably do it. However, part of doing the job right is knowing what to do.
Can you shed some light on where you got the bearings, what was required to do the job and and special procedures you used.
Thanks very much.
Can you shed some light on where you got the bearings, what was required to do the job and and special procedures you used.
Thanks very much.
#4
I ordered the bearings at a bearing store in toronto, the part numbers are on the old bearings.. i dont have the numbers, but someone here has them.
need a new oil seal also.
arbour press was used to press the races out and in .
the splines on the shaft that the output flange bolts onto need to be sealed or else oil will seep out an into the driveshaft.
Tightening the large nut in the flange, will set the bearing pre-load, and that in turn will affect how the gears mesh together, which then required the correct shim thickness. If you are meticulous, you can get it back to where it was with the old bearings and should be good to go. Make sure that you dont over or under - tighten this... There is a procedure somewhere.
need a new oil seal also.
arbour press was used to press the races out and in .
the splines on the shaft that the output flange bolts onto need to be sealed or else oil will seep out an into the driveshaft.
Tightening the large nut in the flange, will set the bearing pre-load, and that in turn will affect how the gears mesh together, which then required the correct shim thickness. If you are meticulous, you can get it back to where it was with the old bearings and should be good to go. Make sure that you dont over or under - tighten this... There is a procedure somewhere.
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