Hello All,
I recently purchased a 2002 X-type 3.0. I think that I am going to get to like it. Being a Beamerhead for the past 25 years, I thought I would try a Jag.
However, the car had several problems, this is the story 1 of 2;

I went to AUTOZONE and rented the DTC reader for a few days
1. It had the dtc of p0171, p0174, check engine light on and cruise not available

I searched around the forums for solutions. (You guys are sharp!)

I then broke out my can of starting fluid, started the engine and begin to spray. I sprayed the IMTs, the pipe to the brake booster, the other hose that comes off top of the throttle body (TB) and the PVC hose, to no avail.

So I removed the TB to take a look around and WALLA! There laying on the rear valve cover was a SMASHED PIPE (repaired by inserting both ends into a section of gas line). The TB was not properly installed, instead of being secured to the lower mount (on the side of the valve cover) it was all the way down, pinning the pipe between itself and the valve cover. After reassembly, I cleared the codes, drive it for a few days with no problem.

I then returned the DTC reader back to Autozone. While there I figured I would get a can of Seabreeeze to clean my injectors. I filled the car up with premium gas and added the Seabreeze.

Later that evening, I had to fly out of town and it’s approximately 50 mile trip to the airport, so off I went. During the trip the check engine light came on. I noticed no difference in the car’s performance.

Upon my return home, I went to Autozone to have the codes read and there were p0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0305, p0420, p0430 and p1316.
With this combination of codes indicating a misfire and NO p0304, I figured that this was caused by the Seabreeze (injector cleaning). Is my logic sound?
The car runs smooth
Because of a lawsuit Autozone can’t reset or rent the DTC Reader tool. The person that rented me the tool before was reprimanded.
Anyway, MY PROBLEM IS – HOW DO YOU CLEAR THE DTC CODES AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WITHOUT A TOOL?
I have:
1.tried removing the negative battery terminal for more than an hour
2.tried removing F32 from the fuse box under the hood
3.tried the reset / trip reset button (never got the timing right)
4.have cold started the car more than 10 times

Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike L.

 

Mike, if the problem is still present, if you clear the code, it will cause the light to light the next time you start the car. So, you did the right thing by disconnecting the battery, but sounds like you have the issue still.

Did you add the whole can of Seafoam (what I think you mean by seabreeze)? If so, you added way too much. You are only supposed to add like 4 ounces to a whole tank, not the full 16 ounces.

As for your codes, I am attributing all of them to the fact that there is too much seafoam in the gas. Unfortunately, you will need to run through all of the tank before you can really clear up the issue unless you drain out what is left in the tank and dispose of the gas later (adding 2-3 gallons at a time after running the tank most of the way empty).

Wish you luck.

 

Thermo,
Thanks for the assistance. I will follow thru on getting all of the 'seabreeze' out of the system and let you know.
Mike L.

 

My day started out the same as yours, Mike. Started the Jag and the check engine light stayed on. When I tried to accelerate a little hard it sort of stuttered a little I went on to the post office and when I left there it was running smooth and acceleration was OK. The message board flashed occasionally Cruise Control Not Available also. I went ahead and did some chores then on the way home stopped at Auto Zone and had them pull the codes, didn't need to rent the tool, they came out to the car and hooked it up then went back inside and fed info into the computer and printed out the codes P1111, P0171 & P0174. They told me their program doesn't cover Jaguar. I haven't looked for any vacuum leaks yet it too damned cold right now. It's running smooth so I'll just wait til it gets warmer.

At least it waited til we were back home from out 3600 mile flawless trip to start messing up. The remote door locks are screwed up too, that started Tuesday after I washed the car. I think that problem is cause by one of the sensors indicating somethings not latched.

 

Green Machine,
Check the underside of the PVC hose first. The IMTs, the pipe to the brake booster, the other hose that comes off top of the throttle body (TB) should also be checked for a split/crack. Use some starter fluid to spray in these areas and when you noticed a change in performance, you've hit the spot....
Mike L.

 

i have a write up om this problem with pics (my x-type projects and installs)...i think its page 8 or 9 on my thread

 

well, i just experienced the check engine light & cruise control off warning combo and am bracing for the worst, but am pretty encouraged by the possibility of easy fixes. today it was about 22 degrees F, and i am not sure if the cold played any part, but i plan on pulling codes and taking a look for leaks tomorrow when its warmer. the car runs like normal, i haven't noticed any decrease in performance (although I havent went over 45 since this happened). I will be back to get opinions on what i find, since you guys are the best.

 

My CEL just turned on today too. seems like theres a trend going on here. My autozone no longer loan/rent out the code reader. does anyone know of a place that i can loan or rent a reader from for free or for a fee (thats not $80 like the shops aroud my area charge). I was told Aamco do it for free, but not for our cars as theres some different connector they have to add (not sure if this is true of if someone was just trying to rip someone off as i dont get what difference the connector makes as they alreday have it, its not like they have to go and buy it especially for one job). Any help is appreciated. Hopefully the light is on as a christmas decoration and that nothing is really wrong haha...

 

buy the one in my pics at autozone i paid 39.99 for it

 

Thanks for the idea Dennis. Ill be sure to do that for next time. I just went to a small shop near me and they checked the codes for $20. the only code that showed up was one mentioned in the original post "P0174", said that the feul mixture was lean. Ill take a look at the suggestions posted above for a fix. Any other reccommendations appreciated too. Thanks in advance

 

The vacuum leaks show up especially when it gets cold.

 

well that is great news. Is it because the tubing tends to turn more brittle when its cold? seems like this trend has been popular here recently.

 

do not worry about 174...that usally with is a fluke code ...its a vac leek 100% just have them erase that code after you fix vac leek ...

 

I looked over the car today and didnt notice any leaks. I disconnected the battery and got the CEL to go away. Ill have to wait and see if it comes back. Does anyone think i should get it checked now rather than waiting for light to come back? I dont really know too much about it so just want to make sure it doesnt lead to something more serious

 

Thanks Mike. I'll do that when we get out of this deep freeze, probably some time around spring or so. Too darn cold to do this in an unheated space right now. We're not planning any more long trips this year and it's running OK now. I'll just have to put up with that CEL starring at me and the occasional Cruise Control Not Available message. I guess it might lower the gas mileage a little.
I think some evil grinch must have sent out a signal to all our X-types, since we've had so many come up with the same problem this winter and all within a week or so of each other.


*** On the note of code readers. Auto Zone here in Lincoln does this for free took maybe 5-10 minutes to get it done and have a print out. Although it is nice to have the tool in your box for when ever you need it.

 

Have any of you guys done this yet?
There is a lot of talk of running around to buy code readers which usually are great as long as you know what the codes mean eg the split pipr below can cause DTC codes for 02 sensors etc when the o2 sensors are fine.If it is the PCV hose the code reader wont directly point to the cause.
The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) hose is a common fault as its thin and poor quality from factory and can cause all sorts of problems as mentioned.It splits underneath over time where oil collects as it isnt very sturdy.The split allows unmetered air into the system which can cause the MIL to light, limp home mode sometimes, DTC codes which arent related to the cause due to the car fuelling wrongly to protect the engine,etc
It takes a minute to check and the dealer I got my replacement one (only a fiver from the dealer) from when mine went on my 3.0 said they sell loads.The new pipe is MUCH sturdier.
Here is a pic of the PCV hose...just remove the engine plastic cover and its parallel to the air intake pipe before the TB.

Similarly air leaks elsewhere on the intake side (many have mentioned gaskets) can cause these problems also
It takes no time to check the pipe and it could save you a lot of time and money wrongly diagnosing and replacing perfectly good sensors.

 

You dont have to put up with it
For the sake of a 2 min job including temp repair you can tape around the pipe until you can get to a dealer to get a replacement
I did this with mine and the fix was immediate and after a couple of cold-hot drive cycles the MIL went out.
The new sturdier pipe was then fitted when I had it delivered to my work from the dealer

 

I have just recently acquired the software that enables me to plug into a laptop and read or reset the codes myself.can you guys in the states not get hold of it? Ps i live in england.

 

Nick, I had a code reader like that a long time ago (10 years?). So, yes, we have access to it. Most people just don't think of using their laptops as a code reader.

 

ok well i checked the PCV hose and didnt see any splits there or anywhere else for that matter. Thinking its time to pull some codes but I don't wanna drive it afraid I will do more damage. I do hear a hissing sound like leaking air from the upper left area of the engine but I can't pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Any ideas?