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Desperate need of help!!! Ignition...

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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 04:32 PM
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Default Desperate need of help!!! Ignition...

I have a 2002 xtype 3.0 automatic. It has been down for four months. I have tried everything. It is going into limp and showing ignition codes. Here's the list
P0352, 354, 356
P1386
Here's the list of what I've done
Replaced battery, all coils, plugs, knock sensor, cam sensors, crank sensor, oil pressure and temp sensors, coolant temp sensor, the cat on bank 2.
I have redone every ground in the engine bay, and soldiered in new wires to everything ignition related.
Also, I have sent the ecm out twice for remanufacture and both times it came back as they could find nothing wrong.
I'm at a loss. It goes into limp after around ten minutes. Never fails. I can clear the codes and it will straighten up for a few seconds then goes right back. Then I let it cool down for a few hours and it will repeat this process.
I did remove all the seats prior to this happening to refinish. But, the timeline isn't dead on to that. Are there any other systems that report for ignition? If it's not the ecm, what does the gauge cluster do b-sides being gauges?
Please please please help.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 07:12 AM
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Wgmay1, from what you are describing, your problem appears to be a ground wire issue between the ECM and the coils. So, specifically, you are looking at the yellow/green wire coming off of pin 4 of the coils. If you start at the coils, you will see where each coil has its own yellow/green wire and they will all form into 1 wire. Between that point and the ECM you most likely have either a broken wire (not suspecting that because the engine is still running) or that wire has a high resistance point in the middle of the wire (most likely where you spliced the wiring together or where the wiring got soldered to the plug.

All of the codes indicate that there is either a problem with the power going to the ECM (not likely as cylinders 1/3/5 are working normally based on codes), the power wire going to the coils is shorted to ground (car shouldn't start as it would only be running on 3 cylinders), you have 3 bad coils (not likely to have that many bad all at the same time, especially on the same side of the engine), or the ground wire between the coils and the ECM is open.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Wgmay1, from what you are describing, your problem appears to be a ground wire issue between the ECM and the coils. So, specifically, you are looking at the yellow/green wire coming off of pin 4 of the coils. If you start at the coils, you will see where each coil has its own yellow/green wire and they will all form into 1 wire. Between that point and the ECM you most likely have either a broken wire (not suspecting that because the engine is still running) or that wire has a high resistance point in the middle of the wire (most likely where you spliced the wiring together or where the wiring got soldered to the plug.

All of the codes indicate that there is either a problem with the power going to the ECM (not likely as cylinders 1/3/5 are working normally based on codes), the power wire going to the coils is shorted to ground (car shouldn't start as it would only be running on 3 cylinders), you have 3 bad coils (not likely to have that many bad all at the same time, especially on the same side of the engine), or the ground wire between the coils and the ECM is open.
I had replaced EVERY wire in the harness related to ignition, from ecm to each coil, there was no change in its behavior. Do you think I should just replace the while harness?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 05:23 PM
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Wgmay1, it is possible that your ecm is toast. That is a possible faulty function. This is where a professional with a dealership level computer should be able to hook up to the car and be able to tell if the ECM is bad or not.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Wgmay1, it is possible that your ecm is toast. That is a possible faulty function. This is where a professional with a dealership level computer should be able to hook up to the car and be able to tell if the ECM is bad or not.
Ya I sent it twice for remanufacturing. The first time it came back as nothing was wrong. So, replaced all the wiring and had no change. I sent it back out and they put it through the paces for a weekend using the heat gun and couldn't reproduce the issue.
I did some thinking and I didn't replace the wires all the way to the connectors on the coils. I replaced them from the inches from the ecm connector to the pcv valve. So, I suppose it's possible there is a defect in one of the outputs close to the coil.
I'm going to see about replacing the connectors tomorrow. They do test fine though.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Wgmay1, from what you are describing, your problem appears to be a ground wire issue between the ECM and the coils. So, specifically, you are looking at the yellow/green wire coming off of pin 4 of the coils. If you start at the coils, you will see where each coil has its own yellow/green wire and they will all form into 1 wire. Between that point and the ECM you most likely have either a broken wire (not suspecting that because the engine is still running) or that wire has a high resistance point in the middle of the wire (most likely where you spliced the wiring together or where the wiring got soldered to the plug.

All of the codes indicate that there is either a problem with the power going to the ECM (not likely as cylinders 1/3/5 are working normally based on codes), the power wire going to the coils is shorted to ground (car shouldn't start as it would only be running on 3 cylinders), you have 3 bad coils (not likely to have that many bad all at the same time, especially on the same side of the engine), or the ground wire between the coils and the ECM is open.
I replaced the engine harness and the ecm and am still having the same issue. What else could it possibly be?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 07:58 AM
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Have you checked the 1 inch dia pipe from the front cambox to the inlet manifold for splits, especially in its underside? Plus, of course, any other vacuum leaks in, eg, brake servo, purge valve, manifold flap valves?
 
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