Last p.i.t.a. fix I hope. Had this code (one or the other) since buying the car whenever I sat at a stationary idle for several minutes. Think: bank drive up line, etc. It was intermittent, could clear and go weeks/months before it popped again. In between, no m.i.l. and all OBD readings "completed". Not a thing that influences running, driving, performance, so I lived with it. Past 3/4 months it was progressively more frequent & began throwing the code during driving times. Nothing that could be mapped (i.e. town driving, freeway driving, pulling a hill, etc.) So.....Utah has emissions for re-licensing and due now. Checked everything visible tank to firewall for obvious cracking, loose, "funny looking", but couldn't see the problem. YES, gas cap but as Brutal has said numerous times, it's NEVER that (because that's a big leak). Tried Thermo's suggestion of removing pipe from the firewall purge valve and shooting a bit of cleaner in it (which did work the first time) = nada! Could not get it to clear off this time, clear m.i.l, drive, test performs at whatever given parameters and bigo m.i.l.

So off to the ex Salt Lake City Jaguar tech (Import Auto) vet she went today. I suspect the purge valve, but after they do their tests and fix it, I'll post back what they find and fix. I didn't understand everything he said in passing but something to the effect that the "generic" p0442 & p0456 codes will be specific different codes with different prefixes on their Jaguar machine. Something like a O & (?) Something prefix and different extention number.

 

could be your fuel pump seal or cracke pump ring.....or hose on pump

 

Shop called today. Smoke test shows leaking from, the rubber pipe running up by the fuel filler neck.

Fk me, rubber pipe is $50 LABOR IS ~$800!!!! They have to drop the tank 6 hours labor, smfh!

 

Man, that sucks. Sorry for your pain. Hopefully, when you get it back and the dashboard is dark and not lit up you can quickly put it behind you.

 

Yeah, puked a little bit in my mouth at the price.

 

sorry to hear that Dell.

 

Is dropping fuel tank a problem for you? Do you need instructions? Just say so! First you need to buy a chain saw and a torch...

 

@Car5, You just can't help being a fkn troll. I've seen some aholes in my life and you rate right up in the top 3. Why the hell don't you just stfu.

 

so unnecessary dude, if you have nothing constructive to add then you're better off writing nothing at all. if you need to blow off steam go to a golf practice range or whatever don't take it out on others

 

Dell was harassing me for last month or so for no reason, trying to prove that he was a super mechanic and I didn't know anything about cars. I am not arguing about it. Dell, you are a super mechanic and I don't know anything about cars! (this is official statement!)
In your case dropping fuel tank is not hard because you will drive until it is empty.
Dell, I have XK with bad engine, I would trade engine repair for your tank problem.

 

The tank on a x meens drop drive shaft, exhaust and front of diff. Note if theyre dropping the tank they need to do preventative repairs. I would replace the seals and get plastic gas tank epoxy from the auto parts stores. I cannot count how many times i have fixed these tanks for small evap leaks because the top of the tank has a crack in the evap cap in the center top on the tank that you cannot see, clean well and apply libarally all over where it is bonded to tank and the valve itself. The crimp clamps on the 2 hoses coming out i clamp tighter. Or you can replace these hoses to but theyre thin walled fuel hose and not easy to find. Past that people would have to buy a tank no longer avail from jaguar. This is alot of labor and if that part leaks in the future youll be paying to drop again so be proactive.

 

Thanks Brutal. I actually told them to check all of that while out based on some of your past posts. Yeah, dropping the tank is not like on any other car I've worked on with having to drop the entire rear subframe, hence paying the $$'s. Not really so much can't as don't want too, lol. All for a freaking $50 piece of rubber.

 

you can do it without dropping the tank ...little fiddley but can be done
i read some where...ill see if i can find it

 

'looks like a b**ch of a job and definitely something I would NOT enjoy doing. The only plus is that the rear diff appears to be able to removed by itself (unlike a lot of the earlier Jag's).

This year when my wife asks me what I want for my birthday..




and to be 25-years younger!

Once it's out of warranty ANY vehicle can be handful to own when it comes to repair and maintenance. I think that our X-Types are worth spending the money to repair... up to the point that it can be replaced by another vehicle that gives more "bang for the buck" in pride of ownership and driving pleasure, and for that the X-Type is pretty hard to beat. 'sorry for the long post.. I'm well into Happy Hour..

 

Well picked it up today. @ Brutal they said they fully inspected the tank and no worn spots, micro cracks, etc. that they could find. I would really have liked your remedy to have been performed, but they wouldn't do it just as a c.y.a. without a clear problem.

They dropped the tank, replaced a rubber hose that connects from fill neck to the tank. It was leaking air (evap fail) & when tank pulled out they said it was slightly leaking fuel. Not enough to drip on the ground, but enough that when the tech started dropping the tank, he said he could smell fuel and there were signs of leaking. Another thing I started thinking about while waiting for repair. I don't recall any vacuum hiss sound coming from the gas cap on removal. Idk, if it even does that, anyone know if it does?

Smoke test, drop tank, replace hose, reinstall tank, another smoke test = $850. Now drive it until evap tests and passes (**fingers crossed**).

 

best of luck to ya Dell hope it holds up

 

tell how you make out

 

Evap reset after about 40 miles driving with no MIL (woo-hoo)! Ran it to station, passed emissions and got my licensing tag. Still has a "components" (1 still passes in Utah) on OBD and station test equipment lit which no one seems to be able to explain what it is or how to get it to clear.

 

I've had the Evap leak twice in the last 6 months.
Last week I KNOW I put the cap back on nice and tight.

I suspect its probably the same rubber hose as in this case.

Not thrilling = seeing the cost and complexity of replacing it.
I guess I'll replace the gas cap first (mechanic's recommendation) because at least that's cheap and I can do it myself.

 

It would be interesting to take a survey on how many people that were ever told that is was probably a faulty gas cap and it actually WAS the cause vs. how many times people bought a new gas gap and had nothing to show for it but an extra gas cap? Can't say that I ever remember anyone saying that it fixed an evap issue. On the other hand, it is cheap and simple to try.....................