Hi Guys, not been on here for a while. I'm looking for some guidance if anybody knows which is the fuse and relay for the front fog lights for a 2006 2.2D Xtype. I've seen articles that say its F2 under the bonnet and others that say its F86 in the passenger compartment, but nothing on the relay. Can you help?

 

Hex Type, where the confusion comes in is that there are 2 different fuse boxes for the X-TYpe. One that came with the early X-Types (built on/before March 2004) and then a second fuse box that came on the later ones. F2 is the one for the later fuse boxes.

Let me check my diagrams and I will confirm which fuse is for the fog lights.

 

Thanks Thermo, Sorry for the delay in coming back to you, my laptop crashed and I've only just managed to get a back up working... if it is fuse F2, that's fine, so its ether a fault in the switch, wiring or relay, I'm not sure what relay it is, again I have heard its the same that runs the main beam, but there working fine. I've checked the fog light bulbs, and they are ok, so it can only be ether the switch, relay or wiring (unusual but given faults with previously experienced boot lock wouldn't surprise me). Any help in diagrams or info on which relay I need to check would be greatly received.

 

Hex, we can help you out from here. The first step is to remove the headlight switch from the dash. You should see a plug on the back of the headlight switch that has like 11 wires coming out of it. Two of them should be green wires with white stripes (connected to pins 15 and 11 in the plug). Take a short piece of wire and plug it into the plug to short pins 11 and 15 together. Did the fog lights come on? If yes, then this confirms that your headlight switch is bad. If no, with the wire still attached, use a multimeter to measure where the wire goes into pin 15 to chassis ground for 12 VDC. Do you get over 11.0 VDC? If yes, then this confirms a wiring problem between the headlight switch and the fog lights (or 2 bad bulbs). If no, reconnect the headlight switch, leave it in the OFF position, and continue.

Now, open the bonnet of your car. Locate the fuse box and find relay R1. Remove the relay. Look for the pin numbers to the holes (may be written on the fuse box, may be written on the back side of the relay which you will then need to transfer to the holes that the relay gets installed in). Using the jumper piece of wire from earlier, insert the wire between pins 3 and 4. With wire making good connection, turn on the fog lights using the headlight switch. Do they come on now? If yes, then this confirms a bad relay R1. If no, measure for 12 VDC at the jumper wire. If you are getting over 11 VDC, then this would confirm a bad wire between the fuse box and the headlight switch. If no, then you have a bad connection inside the fuse box and you will need a new fuse box.

This should take you down to a faulty component. Let me know which one and I can give more guidance from there.

 

Hi Thermo


Makes sense, good advice and thanks for the guidance. Ill follow the steps over the next couple of days and let you know what results I get.


I have a feeling it might be the switch as its got some damage around the facia as if somebody has been looking at it previously.


The bulbs are fine as I've buzzed them out when looking at it the other day, there was no power coming through to the connections on the bulbs so its a prior fault down the line. The above checks should allow me to narrow it down, ill update you shortly.

 

Hi Thermo.

Finally managed to get chance to look at the lights again. Here's the results from the tests.

Bridged pin 11 & 15 nothing, didn't get any current across the bridge ether.

Carried on with further tests, as you can imagine similar results
Bridged pin 3 & 4 on relay main beam came on fine, no front fogs.


Went back to the pin 11 on switch bridged direct to live on the battery fogs came on fine.

Looks like no power going into pin 15, fuse F2 is fine. There must be a break in wire between where ever the live pick up is and pin 15.
I've no idea how to replace a wire in a loom would you have any thoughts as to my next approach, would it be simpler to just splice a live from another circuit etc?

 

Hex, before we start replacing wiring, one final check. What I want you to do is to open up the hood/bonnet and access the fuse box there in the engine bay. Locate fuse F2. Using a multimeter, I want you to put the black lead on any bare metal spot on the engine and then place the red lead on the little silver tabs on the top of fuse F2 (either side works for the moment) as you are measuring for 12 VDC. Measure for 12 VDC on the other silver tab. Did you get 12 VDC on both tabs? If yes, then this confirms a bad wire between the fuse box and the head light switch. If you got 0 VDC on both tabs, then this tells me that relay R1 is toast and you need to replace the relay. If you are suspecting that R1 is bad, swap R1 and R2 and see if your fog lights work now. If they do, then you need to replace the relay that is now in the R2 position (R2 controls the horn). If you got 12 VDC on 1 side and 0 VDC on the other, then this is telling me that you have a bad fuse. replace the fuse.

 

Hi Thermo


IMPORTANT (I'm not questioning your expertise in these questions, merely clarifying my understanding, and very much appreciate your input). ;-)


The relay and fuse seem to be working fine, when a live bridge is plugged into pin 11 on the switch moulding the fog lights came on, would this not denote there is no power getting to the switch in the first place to trigger the circuit?


I did check the fuse box Sunday when performing the other checks as it seemed a logical continuation of the tests you were describing. I didn't get any power across ether the fuse or relay, until the switch was bridged direct from the battery then it kicked in fine as expected and the fog lights came on.


I ran an ohm meter across the fuse and its reading fine. Assuming (which I don't like to do), that pin 15 delivers the power to the switch then sends the signal through pin 11 to switch the relay has ether a break in it or is not connected to its source is there any way it could be a break in the circuit between the switch and the fuse box?


Is it more likely there is a fault at the pickup to the switch?
Are there any more fuses between the pickup and the switch?

 

Hex, you are correct in that Pin 11 is the output of the headlight switch to the fog lights and Pin 15 is the input to this switch.

As for power, it is an interesting loop. To power the fog lights, the power goes from relay R1 (high beam/fog light relay) Pin 4 to fuse F2 (engine bay fuse box). From there, it goes to pin 15 of the headlight switch, through the switch and out Pin 11. From there, it run directly to the fog lights.

With all this being said, the check at fuse F2 is to simply eliminate the wiring between the fuse box and the headlight switch. If there is no power at Fuse F2, then we know the problem is upstream of fuse F2. The thought being that once you install wiring and you don't mess with it, it will normally be fully functional forever. It is when you start getting in there and messing with the wiring that you start introducing problems. There are always exceptions to this rule, but it is the unusual situation. The more likely parts to fail are the ones that move or the weak links (ie, the bulb filaments).

If you measure the top of fuse F2 at both of those silver tabs when you attempt to turn on the fog lights, are you getting 12 VDC? By having power at these 2 tabs, that is telling me that the relay is fully functional and not the source of the problem. This also confirms that the fuse F2 is good (eliminating possible problems). By not having 12 VDC at either post on fuse F2, then this points back to the relay as being bad. if you have 12 VDC on 1 post and not the other of fuse F2, while the fuse may look good, it is actually bad and that is where your problem is.

Assuming you have 12 VDC on both tabs of fuse F2, if you then measure Pin 15 on the headlight switch and you have 12 VDC there, then this would confirm that the wiring between the fuse box and the headlight switch is good and therefore your headlight switch is the problem. If you don't have 12 VDC there, then this confirms a bad wire between the fuse box and the headlight switch.

If you need a set of diagrams, let me know (I think I already sent you a set). This makes understanding what the checks are doing a bit more understandable.

As for questioning my expertise, do not feel like I am taking it personal. I am by no means doing that. Sometimes I need the good slap up side the head to keep it on straight. It also makes me go back and rethink what I am doing to make sure that I am going down the right path.

Another thing that you try is doing this: with the diagrams, print out out the page that shows the fog light diagram. You can then use a green marker to highlight the wiring between pin 11 of the headlight switch and the fog lights since we know that is good. You can then write in the values that you are getting when you measure the various points. In short, you should have 12 VDC at every point in the fog light loop. The problem lies between the last point that has 12 VDC and the first spot that has 0 VDC.

The big thing with older cars is to do the checks with as much still connected as possible and in an operating condition. Sometimes they will develop some interesting faults ( say a high resistance connection) that when you remove plug, it will test good, but when you connect it, things will not work properly. This comes from the fact that the current pull of the circuit is what is causing the problem to fester. By installing a high resistance multimeter in series to the circuit, the current doesn't let the problem show itself and therefore things will appear good when they really aren't. I have beat my head against a few walls in my life trying to figure out why things are not making sense.

 

That was great help and made total sense, I swapped the relay and it WORKED..!!!!
The horn relay interestingly enough had 5 pins on it and the lights only had 4 I'm wondering if its been swapped before, as I said it looks as if somebody has been fumbling round in there as the facia on the switch was damaged.


Question now is what additional circuits may be affected by the horn relay, horn still works and I'm wondering if I need to bother replacing the relay or leave in situ with just the 4 pins working the horn. Could it be that somebody had them out previously and put them back the wrong way round?
What I don't want to do is find out down the line, say in the middle of winter the heated window screen doesn't work or something.


Do you know what other circuits are on the horn relay, or likely effected by changing to a 4 pin relay?

 

Hex, you have me stumped now. Granted, not knowing what someone else did to the car, the only thing that could explain why the horn still works is that someone has gotten under the hood and done some re-wiring. What they could have done, who knows. Short of them adding a new relay (say under the dash) and running a new wire out to the horns, there is no way to just move a single wire to bypass the horn relay. The GEM module controls the horns. That wire grounds when you push on the center of the steering wheel. the wire grounding actuates the relay. This would not have enough capability to power the horns if they rewired things. so, the use of another relay is required. You wouldn't happen to have a relay just randomly laying about in the engine bay or under the dash that you have no idea what it goes to? All the relays for the X-Type are tucked neatly into the fuse boxes. So, if you are seeing a relay somewhere else, this may be your suspect.

As for what relays are 4 pin units and which are 5, here is a quick summation:
Engine bay:
R1 - 5 pin
R2 - 4 pin
R3 - 4 pin
R4 - 5 pin
R5 - 4 pin
R6 - 4 pin
R7 - 4 pin
R8 - 4 pin
R9 - not used
R10 - 4 pin
R11 - 4 pin
R12-15 are PCB relays (fancy transistor based relays, cannot be changed)

Passenger fuse box:
R1 - 4 pin (? - not shown on the drawings as to what it is, but based on its operation, should only be a 4 pin relay)
R2 - 4 pin
R3 - 5 pin
R4 - 4 pin
R5 - 4 pin
R6 - 4 pin
R7-R10 are PCB relays (non-replaceable relays)

 

Ha ha, got you stumped....oh ****, I've no chance.....!!!


Going from the relay list looks like relay 1 & 2 have been put in back to front, as relay 1 only had 4 pins and relay 2 had 5 when I swapped them it all seemed to work. When I bought the car there was electrical tape under the hood, but I id get it for a for a steal, so expect a few minor hiccups along the way....


Like I said everything seemed to work, but that was last night, Ill find out when I go out in it today... Jag for sale..!!!


Fingers crossed it is as simple as the relays being connected in the wrong places.


Thanks for your help so far, Ill buy you a beer if we ever meet, all you have to do is fly me out to the US...

 

I may fly you to the US, but warning, you will have to deal with Washington DC. Is it really worth it? LMAO. Granted, I am trying to convince the better half that we need to go to England for a week or so. I miss my time that I was in London for the Feel XE event.

 

POLITICS --- Not sure who's got the biggest crack pots at the moment US or UK.... I'm about 250 miles from London, but have lots of friends down there. If you do come over let me know Ill certainly meet up with you, and might be able to help you find digs.
Exchange rate is good for you at the moment too...


Not found any other faults with the car, think it might have been as simple as somebody putting the relays in the wrong way round ......


If you fancy doing a house swap for a jolly PM me, lol


Have a good one mate

 

Reading this series of posts because my fog lights also do not work now. However, I first checked the fuse and it was blown. Replaced the fuse, checked to see of the lights now worked and they didn't. Went back and pulled out the new fuse to find it had also blown.

Would like some help to figure out what to do now. I figure something is shorting, but not sure where to look or how to test. This is now my daughter's car. Still drives like new as I have kept up with maintenance and replaced most of the suspension (including front axles) with help on this forum.

Many thanks to everyone on here.

 

Hi inde4ever,

Sorry to see you are having a problem.
First thing to clarify is whether you are blowing the fuse to the front fog lights or the rear ones? I see in the title you mentioned front fogs but I have given info for front and rear just in case.

The front fog lights are supplied through a 15 amp fuse (F2 in the power distribution fuse box). If you inadvertently fit an under-rated fuse then it will likely fail quickly once you energize the fog lamps.
The rear fog lamps are supplied via F29 a 7.5 amp fuse in the passenger fuse box.

Both front and rear fog light circuits are pretty straight forward Their supply voltages comes via the respective protection fuse (F2 Front lights, F29 Rear lights) through the headlight selector switch which has a single wire for each output to the front or back fog light pairing. There is also a signal wire branch take off for each up to the instrument cluster to provide the fog light indication in dash (not likely the cause of the problem so we will work on the assumption it is the primary wiring or lamps for initial testing).

To save you having to do voltage and resistance measurements, if you have a few spare fuses on hand we might just start isolating things and testing with a good fuse as you start adding things back onto the circuit.
This initial testing may only take only about 30 minutes to try and isolate the problem.

If it is the fuse for the front lights blowing, I would suggest locating the two wire plugs that feed each front fog lamp and simply disconnect both plugs so you can then see if the fuse still fails when you select the fog lamps in the light switch.
If the fuse fails, then you likely have a wiring loom short somewhere as technically there should be no load on the circuit with the lamps disconnected. If the fuse doesn't blow, then refit one front fog lamp plug and see if the fuse continues to hold fast, then swap for the other to see if you can pinpoint which fog lamp assembly might be problematic.
You might find you have just one lamp that causes the fault, which might be a crimped lead to the lamp assembly, or a failed bulb insert that has had the filament drop across the internal terminals within the lamp.

If it is the rear fog lamps fuse that is failing, then the process will be similar apart from the fog lamps in the rear are integrated in the cluster so are fed through the 7 way plugs in the trunk that supply each rear light cluster. Again you would unplug both, see if the fuse holds. If not then you are looking for a pinched cable the main wiring loom to or in the trunk. If the fuse holds, then refit one 7 way plug at a time to see if you can define which side is problematic. Again if the wiring up to the light cluster is good, then the respective lamp itself could be the issue.

Hope this gives you a quick process to follow.
Let us know what results you get and if needed we can go into more detail regarding wire colours and specific plugs if we need to chase the wiring in more detail.

 

Ahh yes. I remembered that I noticed the back fog lights are ALSO not working. I did not check the fuse for that because I had already blown the replacement F2 fuse for the front fog lights. But I should have mentioned that in the first message, but it was late and I was concentrating on what I noticed first. I will have to wait until the car comes back from work today and go through your suggestions. Thank you so much for the detailed response! I have plenty of fuses to go through and check, so this method is not a problem.

 

I'm still waiting for the Jag to come home so I can fix it.

 

All good, just let us know how you get on.

 

Ok. Jaguar came back. Unplugged lights, put in new fuse, turned on lights, checked fuse. It was fine. Put in new lights and they worked. Thanks!
Now for the rear fog lights. I suspect they are just bulb replacements as well.