does anyone know where i can find a diagram for a 2004 x type..

also i have a few problems..

1st right side low beam light is out might be the fuse which i dont knwo which fuse to check ..

2nd the heated seats wont work along with the 4 ways.. could that be a fuse too?

 

unboxed9, send me your e-mail in a PM and I will send you the fuse box diagram. Also, do you have an estate (stationwagon) X or a standard sedan X? Might make a slight difference. Also, did you get an early production 2004 model or a later one? If you look in the door jam, it will state the month and year your car was built. There was a mid year model upgrade that occurred.

As for your headlight issue, take a look at fuse #F30 in the engine bay fuse box. That is for the headlight in question. As for your second problem, unless you have lost the GEM module (which should affect items like your power windows, wipers, etc) the two are not connected. If your turn signals work normally but not with the hazzards, then you are most likely looking at a bad hazzard switch as it feeds directly into the GEM module as does the turn signal switch. So, any problem other than the hazzard switch would affect both normal turn signal use and hazzard light use.

Hopefully this gets your kitty back towards 100%

 

i have a sedan built in 10/2003

i checked that fuse and yes it is blown ill change it out later today

yeah its just the hazzards .. all my signals work and power windows and wipers

but thanks for the help

 

unboxed, if you still need the fuse diagram, let me know. It shouldn't be that hard to get to you. Worst case, I will send you the whole file with all the electrical stuff in it. You might find it of use.

 

yeah you can email me it at Jaguarlvr9@gmail.com

thanks for all the help ..

 

Hello Thermal, I was advised to come to this site and look for your help in locating the fuse box diagrams for my 1988 XJ6...particularly the driver's side panel, with the 20-fuse layout (other fuse box diagrams are also needed for the rest of the fuse boxes on the car).

Any help you could provide would be appreciated! I've ordered the Haines repair manual for this car but it hasn't arrived yet.

 

Hey Anderton , you're in wrong forum you better check in XJ40 Forums and take a look at FAQs

 

Anderton, I don't have diagrams back quite that far for your car. I would be more than willing to help you out as much as I can, but my hands are kinda tied at the moment without more information about what you are looking for.

 

Thero,

I have a very similar problem to unboxed9 who posted on 12-11-2009, 12:06 PM. I have a jaguar x type, 2004 sedan with production date January 2004 date. Head lights are taking a lot of joy out of owning the car. On dim the two inner lights function and the inner bulb in outer drivers side light functions.(outer passenger does not work at all). When on High the passenger side inner gets bright, the drivers side inner stays dim. The outer side drivers stays dim. Far light on passenger does not work on dim or bright. I would all so love a fuse box diagram for the fuse box under the dash and under the hood. ( I have checked the bulbs by the way) thanks so very much!

 

I think this thread should be changed to the ask Thermo.

 

ravinell, first off, welcome to the forums. As you will find out, there is lots of good information here, so, don't be a stranger and leave us after getting your headlights corrected. We try to have a lot of fun around here and share our highs and lows together. We also ask that you properly introduce yourself in the "New Member" section. Helps us get to know you and you also get to meet some of the members too.

Now, on to your headlight issue. The inner lights have 2 bulbs inside of them. If you look, you have a small 5 watt bulb (194 bulb) and then you have a standard headlight bulb (halogen). The standard headlight bulb will only turn on when you have the brights on. In your case, first check fuses F85 and F86 to make sure they are good. Next, when reinstalling the fuses, switch their places (put the fuse that was originally in spot F85 into the F86 spot and vice versa). Now, attempt the high beams (or as the brits call it, main beams). Did the problem reside on the same side or did it switch sides? If it switched sides, then you have a bad fuse. The fuse for the passenger side is F85. Get a new 7.5 amp fuse for in that spot and it should fix your problem. if it doesn't, then follow the rest of what I have written here. If swapping the fuses did not cause the problem to shift side to side, what I want you to do is to carefully remove this bulb from both the left and right sides (high beam only) of the car and swap the bulbs side to side. Attempt the high beams again. Did the problem switch sides? If yes, you have a bad bulb, get a new bulb. If the problem remains on the driver's side, you have a wiring issue. If you think you can fix this based on your ability with wiring, let me know. I will give you step by step instructions on what will need to be done.

Now, for the low beams (or as the brits call them, dip beams). First, check fuses F16 and F17 to make sure they are good. When re-installing them switch their locations (the fuse you pulled out of F16, put in the F17 spot and vice versa). Did the side with the bad low beam switch? If yes, replace the fuse that is currently in F17 (passenger side low beam) and recheck the low beams. If you still have an issue, follow the rest of the directions. If the low beam remains out on the same side (driver's side), then carefully switch the low beam bulbs from side to side. Check the low beams again. Did the problem move side to side? If yes, bad bulb, replace the bulb (just a warning, there are halogen bulbs and HID bulbs for our cars, so, make sure you get the correct bulbs as they are not interchangeable, see below for more info about this). If switching the bulbs does not correct things, then you have either a wiring issue or if you have the HID setup, you may have a bad ballast. Write me back and we'll take it from there.

Ok, if you noticed, I was very specific about being careful with the removal of the headlight bulbs. A weakness of our cars is the supports for the headlights. A little too much force and you can break these supports which can lead to an expensive fix. Should you live in fear of breaking them. NO!!!!! But you also can't be a bull in a china shop either. I recommend removing both covers on each side and sticking both hands in at the same time (if you can). That way you can use one hand to hold the internals, the other to access the bulb. Worst case, you will have to remove the bumper cover which takes about 30 minutes to remove. It isn't that difficult, but will require the use of a T25 torx bit and a 10mm wrench/socket.

I also noted that our cars have either HID or halogen bulbs. These are completely different technologies, and therefore can not be swapped 1 for 1. If you are not sure which bulb setup you have, open up the driver's door and look near the door hinge. If you see a large silver sticker there talking about HID bulbs, then you have the HID system. If you don't have a sticker there, then you have the halogen setup. I mention this as the HID setup has a ballast that can go bad and lead to the problems that you are seeing with the low beams. I will caution when deal with HID systems in that you don't want to have your hands near the bulb when you are turning on the low beams. The ballasts can output up to 23000 volts (yes, 23000). It only lasts for the first second or two, but that is more than enough time to rock your world. Again, is it something you have to live in fear of. NO!!!!!! Just be aware to not have someone else turn on the bulbs with you touching them.

If you reach a point and you want to go further into the problem, let me know. I don't know your electrical ability, hence why I am being a little wordy here and doing things that anyone can do. How is your ability to use a multimeter?

 

Sidewalkman, I have no problem with people putting my name in the topic. It wouldn't be the first nor the last time that it happens. The guys in my truck club do it all the time because of the electrical issues they get involved in. As you have seen, I'm more than willing to help people fix their electrical issues.

 

hey bud is it possible that u can send the diagram of the fuse box too. tx . my email add is teresfordjulien@gmail.com

 

tford, what year X-Type do you have? That way I make sure to get you the most accurate diagrams for your car.

 

Thermo,

There was not a fuse in the 40s on either the fuse box under the dash or under the hood. Removed all fuses and what lights I have stayed on. Check engine light did come on and I had to disconnect the batter to make go off. Ordered a shop manual on CD but have not been able to locate a fuse diagram their either. Could you email me a fuse diagram? rav@trading-earth.com

thanks

 

hey bud can u send me the diagram aswell. 02 xtype 3.0 tx bud.i also got a q 4 u. i balanced all my wheels but steering wheel shake any tips?

 

tford, I know this is going to sound silly, but get an alignment done on your car. It seems like every time my steering wheel shakes, the front end alignment is off just slightly (toe is off by under 0.5 degrees). That is enough to cause the tires to wear on the inside edge too. I would start there and see what you can find.

 

Erika, first off, welcome to the forums. I think you have already experience some of the offerings that this forum has to offer. So, grab some more joe, do some more looking around and I'm sure you will meet the rest of the gang and find us very willing to help out.

Where are you located? I'm down in Great Mills, which is about an hour south of DC. If you know where Hollywood or California cities are, I'm right there. If you go to the southern tip of MD, come back about 30 miles and that is where I am.

As for your problem, I am going to go out here on a limb and say that your catalytic converter is not your problem. We have experienced very few catalytic converters failing in the forums and normally, if it is an issue, it is the O2 sensors for the engine, not the cat itself. So, really, that leaves the throttlebody. From there, what I would ask you to do is to open the hood. Now, if you look in the center of the engine bay (maybe a little towards the front bumper, you will see a rectangular piece with the word "Jaguar" on it (pardon me if I am getting to simplistic here, just not sure of your mechanical abilities). This is your air box with the air filter in it. If you look in the upper right corner of that box, you will see a large black tube coming off of it running up the driver's side of the engine. This is your intake. Half way up, you will see a bulge in the intake with an electrical connector on it. This is your mass air flow sensor (MAF sensor, more on this in a moment). If you go a little more, you will see the black tube meet up with a metal piece, this is your throttle body. If you look on the right side of it, you will see an electrical plug, this controls the valve that is inside of the throttlebody. Using your hand and a flashlight, look this cable over really closely. What you are looking for is any signs of bare wiring or broken wiring (you will know this because the wiring will make a really sharp bend). I would venture to guess that is where your issue is.

If you don't mind a drive, I would have no problem taking a look at your car and seeing what I can figure out for you. I should have also asked this earlier, but is the car causing the "Check Engine" light to come on? If so, what codes is it giving? This will also be very helpful as this can eliminate stuff. If you haven't had the codes read, you can take the car to the local auto parts store and they will read the codes for you for free. Post the codes here and I will research them and see what I can do for you.

I mentioned the MAF sensor earlier. It is possible that your MAF sensor has gotten dirty and it is causing your issues. You can buy a $5 can of "Mass Air Flow Cleaner" (carb cleaner or anything else of the like is not the same stuff, so, don't buy it). Then, using a torx bit, you can remove the MAF sensor and spray the cleaner into the holes of the MAF sensor. The big trick is you don't want to spray straight down the hole, you want to make the liquid enter the hole and then bounce off of the sides shortly after entering. Give it a few good squirts, dump out the fluid that is left inside the sensor and then reinstall. You can also pick up a can of "throttlebody cleaner" (carb cleaner is not the same stuff, look for something that says throttlebody cleaner) You can use a pair of needle nose to remove the clamp that holds the black tube to the throttlebody, slide the black tube out of the way and then, using your finger and the can, squirt the throttlebody cleaner into the throttlebody, using your finger to open the metal disk that is inside. If you see brown, spray it with the cleaner. Make sure to get the edge of the disk too. Just a warning though, the car may not want to start after this (you have essentially flooded the car out). So, while it will take a few more cranks than normal, the engine will eventually start and you will need to play with the gas pedal to keep the engine running. Ironically, this will probably help the cat out some as you are going to be putting a bunch of fuel into the cat and help burn out some of the carbon that is built up in there.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this or don't have a significant other that can do this, let me know and we can arrange a time to get together. I can't promise miracles, but a lot of the problems are easy things to do. I even have the cleaners I mentioned already so you won't need to get them if you come down.