Hi Paul
OK, the air filter is 2 months old
The MAF is 2 months old
Yes the crankshaft sensor is adjustable, I painted the old one and set the new one to the same height.
The check engine light has now come on and the onboard computer error codes are now as follows;
D200
9381
D900
9601
9213
9205
9202

Forgive me my friends, I didn't read it clearly and did't know it was diesel, so it must have the turbo. I don't have diesel engine, but had another car with turbo that had the same symtom, after few headach with missfire codes, fianally found the rubber hose connect the turbo pipe to the intercooler at the radiator was came off,so turbo didn't blow all the air in the engine, the engine can not shuck enough air through intercooler by itself, after reinstalled the hose and tighten it up the engine start right up and run strongly since.

Harry,
I have had a quick look at the hex codes, could not get very far with them.
You need to get a diagnostic code reader, I use the icarsoft i930, it does ecu, abs and srs codes as well as reset.


Thang, no problem, these puma based diesels are unusual little beasties !


Paul.

The Jaguar X Type instrument clusterEngineers Test Mode (ETM) will indicate Many of the vehicle DTCs however it will only show faults detected during continuous operation and not self test faults. Because of this it should not be considered as a replacement for an OBDII code reader required to read the standard DTCs.

The codes are presented in hexadecimal format, the Most Significant Bit will be a number or letter 1,9,A,D or E, followed by 3 Decimal digits.

The first hex digit corresponds directly to the DTC code identifying the system related to the trouble code.


1XXX relates to Enhanced (manufacturer specific) codes P1
9XXX relates to Body Enhanced (manufacturer specific) codes B1
AXXX relates to Body Enhanced (manufacturer specific) codes B2
DXXX relates to Undefined (manufacturer specific) codes U1
EXXX relates to Undefined (manufacturer specific) codes U2



The last 3 digits are in Decimal and relate directly to the DTC code. i.e D900 = U1900 which is a CAN bus fault.
The numbers can relate to a number of different problems (like the example above) so should only be used as a guide. The use of a DTC code reader is the best way to recover diagnosis codes and information

Hi, we we seem to be up and running again thanks to help and advice on this forum.

SO basically the EGR valve was stuck open, which was causing the engine to die immediately on start up. As this dd not show up on the diagnostic, I mistakenly replaced the fuel filter, the cam sensor and the crank sensor. The forum advice from "Man on the Hill" was to block off the EGR, which I did by slackening the bolts and putting a piece of tin lid in to block the intake, caused the engine to fire up straight away. Indicating the EGR was stuck open. The secondary fault which was the misfiring around 2000 revs turned out to be incorrect Crank shaft sensor setting. I pushed it further in and the misfire disappeared.

So I am now dismantling the EGR and then disabling it permanently.

I removed the EGR and inspected it, sure enough there was a huge piece of gooey crud holding the valve open.

So I have now disabled the EGR, the way I have done this is to remove the EGR and clean it, then remove the cover to the electric motor. there are three cogs, remove the last cog and there are two metal pins on it, remove those metal pins and the motor carries on working as normal but it doesn't drive the EGR valve, so the valve stays permanently shut but the car thinks it is still operating.

After a few cycles the Engine warning light has gone off, so Happy Days

:icon_woot:

Good to hear you are all back up and running.
At some point I expect you will get the eml back on for insufficient egr flow.


A side effect of egr blanking is slightly more diesel knock when up to temperature and on light cruising throttle, Shell v power works wonders for reducing that !


Btw in May this year stricter mot regs come in to force, with automatic failure for eml showing, as well as non standard exhausts etc.

Well guys, heres an update, the problem with starting and immediately stopping was a 'stuck open' EGR valve. I have now cleaned out the EGR and reinstalled it and fitted an EGR simulator. I have done about 500 miles without the engine light coming on again. When a friend connected his diagnostic computer the read outs were normal for a perfectly working EGR even though it was totally disconnected.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...72b780f935.jpg

So this is the EGR emulator, which I have used for about 500 miles now. the EGR is completely disconnected, but according to the Diagnostic computer, the EGR is working perfectly normally.

Harry,
With the egr simulator fitted have you noticed any difference with light throttle cruising speed control accuracy ?
Does it make the static throttle slightly less defined in this situation, so requiring more throttle corrections when holding a constant speed on level roads ?


Paul.

Hello Man on the hill, I have noticed that the engine is far more responsive in all situations. Accelleration is far more WOW, and cruising is as gentle as you like, on a flat level road everything is as sweet and gentle as you would like it to be. The fact is that according to the diagnostic computer the EGR is working normally even though it is disconnected.