Jaguar x type 2.0D wont start
#1
Jaguar x type 2.0D wont start
Hello gents,
I was trying to find information but i hit the wall. The problem with jag started when it cut out while driving. And now it is not starting any more. I have change fuel filter clean egr valve. diesel comes to the rail I have checked this when remove pipe to injector. Error reader is reading between 4000psi - 5000psi when cranking engine.There is no error codes or other flashing coil lights. Any advice?.
Regards
I was trying to find information but i hit the wall. The problem with jag started when it cut out while driving. And now it is not starting any more. I have change fuel filter clean egr valve. diesel comes to the rail I have checked this when remove pipe to injector. Error reader is reading between 4000psi - 5000psi when cranking engine.There is no error codes or other flashing coil lights. Any advice?.
Regards
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#3
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,215
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes
on
3,144 Posts
Aurimas, just to ask a silly question, but when you get into the car and roll the key to the RUN position (NOT START!!!!!!!), does the check engine light come on? If yes, then we know that you have power to the ECU/ECM. The next thing that I would tell you to try is spraying a little bit of starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine will catch that way. If it does, then you have an issue with the ECM most likely not firing the fuel injectors. This could be caused by loss of the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor is needed to tell the engine where in the rotation it is so it knows when to admit fuel. This would also explain why the car could have cut off while running.
Just by chance, did you happen to hit a bump right about the time the car cut off? If so, have you checked the inertia switch down in the foot well area? That could have tripped, shutting the engine off (removes power to a portion of the ECM).
I would lastly check fuse F21 in the engine bay fuse box. It is possible that has blown and that is killing power to the ECM.
Just by chance, did you happen to hit a bump right about the time the car cut off? If so, have you checked the inertia switch down in the foot well area? That could have tripped, shutting the engine off (removes power to a portion of the ECM).
I would lastly check fuse F21 in the engine bay fuse box. It is possible that has blown and that is killing power to the ECM.
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#4
Hello,
Thanks for your replay. Yes light is coming up, i did check inertia switch and try reset made no difference. I did try to use spray engine is fire up only while spraying spray . But if cam sensor fail I think shold be error stored and i should be able to see whit error reader but there is no errors... Strange I'm feeling like i hit the wall
Thanks for your replay. Yes light is coming up, i did check inertia switch and try reset made no difference. I did try to use spray engine is fire up only while spraying spray . But if cam sensor fail I think shold be error stored and i should be able to see whit error reader but there is no errors... Strange I'm feeling like i hit the wall
#5
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#6
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,215
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes
on
3,144 Posts
Dell, it may not be of too much help since he has the 2.0L diesel, not the petrol engine. Granted, I am sure the sensor is near the same spot. NOt to many places that you can put that sensor.
Aurimas, since we now know that it is a fuel issue, I am thinking the next question is whether you are smelling diesel fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe when you are attempting to start the car or not. I have a feeling that you are not going to smell anything. If you are, then that would tell me that you have a major issue since the starter would be turning the flywheel, but either you have a bad crankshaft sensor or you have busted crankshaft (I think you would be hearing some sort of clanking noise coming from the car and a simple check for this would be to see if the alternator/AC compressor/etc are turning when starting the car).
Another check that you can try is putting a multimeter across an injector to see if you are getting some voltage. The pulses are going to be really quick, but when rolling the engine over, you should see the multimeter go from a zero volt condition to say a 1 VDC condition with the voltage moving around a little bit. The big thing is seeing it go from a solid 0 VDC condition to something above 0 and moving around. If you are getting 0 VDC when cranking the car over, then you may have an internal fault inside the ECM.
Something just hit me, if you have a scan tool that can look at the parameters of the car, you might be able to roll the engine and see the engine RPM indication. That should tell you if your crankshaft sensor is good or not.
Aurimas, since we now know that it is a fuel issue, I am thinking the next question is whether you are smelling diesel fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe when you are attempting to start the car or not. I have a feeling that you are not going to smell anything. If you are, then that would tell me that you have a major issue since the starter would be turning the flywheel, but either you have a bad crankshaft sensor or you have busted crankshaft (I think you would be hearing some sort of clanking noise coming from the car and a simple check for this would be to see if the alternator/AC compressor/etc are turning when starting the car).
Another check that you can try is putting a multimeter across an injector to see if you are getting some voltage. The pulses are going to be really quick, but when rolling the engine over, you should see the multimeter go from a zero volt condition to say a 1 VDC condition with the voltage moving around a little bit. The big thing is seeing it go from a solid 0 VDC condition to something above 0 and moving around. If you are getting 0 VDC when cranking the car over, then you may have an internal fault inside the ECM.
Something just hit me, if you have a scan tool that can look at the parameters of the car, you might be able to roll the engine and see the engine RPM indication. That should tell you if your crankshaft sensor is good or not.
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,215
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes
on
3,144 Posts
If you are seeing RPM, then the crankshaft sensor is good. So, this pushes things back to either a fuel injector issue (while possible, not very likely), a fuel rail issue (blockage possibly?), or an ECM issue. Because the car shut off rather abruptly, his tends to point to the ECM failing.
#9
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#10
Hi again ,
I'm still have the same issue but I manage to read some code with different reader. So I have P0251, P0191, P2291, P0340, P0190, P1211... HORRIBLE. But I have fuel up to injectors, I have try to do leak off test while cranking but no fuel come back from injectors. According the reader i have about 3900-5000 psi of fuel pressure. i have check IMV it has 5.3 ohms which is ok. Can anyone help? Why I do have fuel but injectors are not opening and no fuel is coming back? Also I check injectors all of them is around 0.3 ohm.
I'm still have the same issue but I manage to read some code with different reader. So I have P0251, P0191, P2291, P0340, P0190, P1211... HORRIBLE. But I have fuel up to injectors, I have try to do leak off test while cranking but no fuel come back from injectors. According the reader i have about 3900-5000 psi of fuel pressure. i have check IMV it has 5.3 ohms which is ok. Can anyone help? Why I do have fuel but injectors are not opening and no fuel is coming back? Also I check injectors all of them is around 0.3 ohm.
The following users liked this post:
JagDiemech (06-25-2022)
#11
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,574
Received 2,579 Likes
on
1,784 Posts
#12
#15
The cam sensor has 3 wires, which are ground, 12v supply, and pulsed signal out.
The old type sensor is black in colour, and these are known to fail.
The upgraded/ later version is grey in colour.
The various engine sensors supply comes from relay r7, then through fuse f2 (15a) then on to the ecm.
If you have no 12v supply on the cam sensor, check the relay and fuse as above.
Additionally the engine wiring loom has known issues of chaffing on the front subframe area, as well as a few other places.
Paul.
The old type sensor is black in colour, and these are known to fail.
The upgraded/ later version is grey in colour.
The various engine sensors supply comes from relay r7, then through fuse f2 (15a) then on to the ecm.
If you have no 12v supply on the cam sensor, check the relay and fuse as above.
Additionally the engine wiring loom has known issues of chaffing on the front subframe area, as well as a few other places.
Paul.
Last edited by Man on the hill; 06-06-2018 at 12:57 PM.
#16