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Just bought X type with 67K on it few questions about manifold

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Old 04-24-2014, 12:52 AM
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Default Just bought X type with 67K on it few questions about manifold

Hi everyone thanks for reading my post




I just bought an X type with 67K on it, 2004 it seems it is in excellent shape it looks like it came off the assembly line... I traded in my 1996 Nissan Maxima, that car was bulletproof full synthetic oil 300,000 KM and it didn't leak a drop of oil, ran like a swiss watch. I hope Karma doesn't bite me cause I sold a good car, I feel sad actually, The reason I decided to sell it, was just starting to accumulate lots of rust on the frame (the body was fine) It needed new tires new brakes, new shocks I thought it was time for something different I had that car for 12 years...


I've had the X type almost a week now, I had a few things I noticed though I wanted to ask others that have this car. The Manifold seems like it is touching the hood cover (that blanket snapped to the under of the hood) and it gets this black residue on it is this normal? I can post a photo on here of it, It seems like it is sagging a bit but not much it looks pretty low clearance. Is this typical? Maybe I can put some aluminum tape on it or something to stop that.


Also I had to replace the passenger light, the dealer that sold me said oh its just the light... 4 hours later after figuring out how to get the front bumper off so I could pull out the light for inspection, the adjusters were completely busted like not just one but all 3 adjusters, I thought I could take a glue gun and fix it the I realized it was futile, maybe someone last bulb change tried a little too aggressively to change the bulb? Zip ties to the rescue temporarily, I have another one on order from Ebay whew 200 bucks used, from the dealer they are like 500 new, the bulb I replaced was 100 bucks!! Welcome to Jaguar


Also I notice this burning oil smell I'm hoping its the crap the dealer put on the engine to wash it and make it look sparkly this happened on my Max 12 years ago I thought I got one with a blown head gasket it had a "sweet" smell but it went away as the engine got dirtier and that stuff burned off the used car dealers use on the engine to make them look new


I didn't get any warranty I figured I'd take my chances and not worry about arguing with them about what's covered and not covered and take that 1200 to spend towards whatever.


Anyways thanks for looking at my post!


So far I really love the car I couldn't beat the price I just have to see how it plays out if it is a good car as I get familiar with it.


Oh yeah another thing it seems like the AC switch sometimes it doesn't want to switch off, I find if I hit the auto switch then hit AC again it turns off... not sure if that is some bug in the software.




~Jeff
 
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:18 PM
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Hi Jeff,

Sounds like you got a sweet deal and a BIG welcome to the forum!

You need to go here:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

and introduce yourself, as we don't know what model spec or X~type you drive but it's all friendly, say hello and avail youirself to the other members, plus, you want to edit your signature to detail your model/petrol/deisel/ engoine size and year to your SIGNATURE, so everyone can equate and relate to your issue if you have one?

In a wee while, you won't miss the Nissan, trust me!

We want to see it too, some pics that is, so get moving if you want to show off your Babe! Cheers, Jeff, Stu
 

Last edited by Stuart Beattie; 04-25-2014 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:38 PM
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The hood blanket on my X-Type sags a bit, and there are some black marks on the high part of the intake plumbing. I don't worry about it.

The burning oil smell might be oil leaking through the engine oil pan gasket onto the exhaust plumbing. That's bad, but common. The smell is obnoxious and the repair is laborious.

AUTO demands AC, but AC does not demand AUTO.
 
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:29 PM
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Jeff, welcome to JF. I think you will like it here.

As for your questions. On my car, the hood blanket touches the manifold and it will rub. The clearances are pretty tight. So, I would not worry about it.

As for the oil, it may be that the dealer just did an oil change and some of the oil dripped onto the exhaust manifold. You will find with this car that unless you take a lot of precautions, when you change the oil filter, you will get a little bit of oil on the exhaust manifold. Do a quick look under the car and see what you can find. The hole for the oil filter is near the center of the car, a little to the left as you are looking at the car. You will see the exhaust manifold hanging right at the height of the plastic under tray. If it is the oil pan, that is known for leaking on our cars. You might be able to slow it down by simply tightening some of the bolts (the trick is to get them all the same tightness and not to get super aggressive with how tight they get). Otherwise, replacing the oil pan gasket will normally set you back about $1000 (lots of labor as you have to drop the transfer case unless you pick one of the alternate ways which each of them have their pros and cons).

If you have more questions, keep them coming. You will find that we will call things as to how they are. Most of the problems with the car are very easy to deal with and you will find that the car is a dream to drive.
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:15 AM
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Thanks for the messages! you guys post messages really quickly. It seems the oil smell is slowly going away I think you may be right about the oil change and some oil on the manifold. I need to put cardboard underneath the car and see if it is leaking any fluids.


I have the 3.0 AWD model I did a little bit of research it seems this engine was also used in the Mazda 6 (the 2002-2008) generation before they introduced skyactiv, and in the ford Contour and the Lincoln MKZ which is what I think this engine is based off of. It looks like its a really great engine from what I read not sure how much Jaguar customized it they all have different HP ratings.
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:24 AM
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jagxtype, yes, they are based off of the same block and share a lot of common components. But, there are also little oddities with the Jag engine as compared to the other variations. The big one being the Jag engine has the water pump on the backside of the engine (ie, next to the battery box) where the other engines have the water pump on the front side of the engine (by the passenger tire-US Version). Some of the Duratec engines had variable valve timing (like the Jag does and I believe the Lincoln did), but the others had standard timing (ie, did not vary). So, a lot of parts are obtainable through your local auto parts store if you ask for the parts from say the same year Lincoln LS 3.0L car. But, this is not 100% true.
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:39 PM
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And don't forget that this engine was also used in the S-Type 3.0 and would be probably much closer to the one in the X-Type than the one Mazda used.
================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:59 PM
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Jeff,

These are posts you may find interesting as a new owner, I wish you lottsa luck on your new adventures with your new X~Type, BON VOYAGE!! Stu

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-owners-95731/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...x-type-103407/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...stions-110908/

As usual there are a mix of good the bad and the ugly, but as a previous owner of 3 X Types and still driving one, I think the Jaguar X Type is an amazing most under-rated vehicle, and I LOVE IT, BY JOVE
 

Last edited by Stuart Beattie; 04-25-2014 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:24 AM
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It seems like a whole bunch of postings and very little help, I am just making a statement here
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:31 AM
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I fixed the manifold marring with aluminum tape I will try and add photos. Also it seems to have stopped that burning oil smell
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:29 PM
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As someone new to Jaguar and the X-Type and the forum as well (2004 X titled to me today although it's been in my possession for a week or so), I'm getting a sense that repairs, parts and service can be quite costly.

I find the commentary about the headlight rather surprising. Not just the fact that the adjusters were broken but bumper removal was required to replace it. Can this really be the case?

Our car (excuse me--motorcar) has just shy of 69,000 miles on it. Once I got the mouse nest out of the a/c duct, the odor is disipating and driving today was quite pleasant. But what sort of issues should I anticipate or otherwise prepare for?

Thoughts and comment most certainly appreciated.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:18 PM
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Hey Nova Joe welcome! I'm also new to Jaguar, I bought an xtype 2004 with 67,000 miles on it, its already up to 68,000 I really like this car. Don't let the headlights scare you, also taking the bumper off wasn't that big of a deal. I will post how to do this next time I do it and post photos.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:34 PM
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I added photos of my purchase, I also added photos of what the carpet under the hood was doing to my manifold and how I fixed it.


My car I'm proud of this purchase for a 2004 it looks like it just came off the assembly line


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...r-x-type-9682/


Other then the manifold problem it had...


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...manifold-9684/
 

Last edited by jagxtype76; 05-09-2014 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:32 AM
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GOOD LUCK! The links they provided are super helpful
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:23 AM
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Thanks for the welcome, jagxtype76.

Bumper doesn't scare me much...pretty handy around cars other than the occasional error about which end of the hammer to hold! Just seems a bit deep for what is usually a fairly simple process.

I recognize that most vehicles are built with assembly line efficiency in mind and sometimes the in service aspect seems to be a distant consideration.

Ah, but the mystique of driving a Jag! I've read the X is an "entry level vehicle to the Jaguar family". If this is entry level, the top of the line must be truly amazing. Incredibly solid, stable and predictable in it's handling.

But I guess you guys already know that. But it's a new and very pleasant experience for me.

Oh, lord, I ramble. Sorry.
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:44 PM
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bumoer was easy takes 5 min to take off once you know where the last bolt is. You dont needvto take it off to replace bulbs... just to remove the light assembly itself
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:09 PM
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Thanx for clearing up the headlight issue, jag.76.

Any idea if small bottles of touch up paint are available? I suppose I could call Jag but there may be a less expensive route.
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:34 PM
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That's one sweet looking Jag.

Welcome to the forum and hope you enjoy your new car!
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:43 PM
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Definitely a clean looking car. Hope you have good luck with it.

One thing I noticed is that you have the original style PCV breather hose that is smooth. Those have a tendency to split on the underside and cause vacuum leaks. They came out with a ribbed one that is much stronger. Do a quick search on here and you'll find out all about it. Cheap and simple to fix if it comes up, but one way or the other it will eventually split.
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:47 PM
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Nova Joe, the parts may be expensive, but if you know what parts to get where, it is not any more expensive than any other vehicle. Keep in mind that a lot of the motor parts are shared with the Lincoln LS 3.0L motor. So, you can get a lot at the local auto parts store and you are not force to go to Jag to get what you need. So, if you need something, ask. We may have even the part number to get what you are after.

As for removing the bumper cover to access the headlights, welcome to the new way that a lot of cars are being made. They add little things like this to the newer cars to bring you back to the dealership to have the work done on the vehicle. But, like others have said, after you do it once, you will find that removing the bumper cover is easy and only takes about 30 minutes to get it off.

As for common issues, mostly what we deal with a vacuum leaks. But, we have those figured out at this point and with a few simple checks, you can fix all of these yourself for very little. After that, if you don't stomp on the loud pedal (ie, gas pedal) routinely, then the car will last forever. The transfer case is a little weak and if you like to go light to light as fast as possible, the transfer case can give out on you and leave you with a $3,000 repair bill. Should you drive like there is an egg under your foot? By no means. But, like the old saying goes, if you play, you will pay. This really only seems to be a problem from a stop. You get up to speed and all is good too. You may be somewhat in the good if you have a later 2004 X-Type (there was an improvement made to the car mid year and part of that was a re-designed transfer case, which leads to other interesting bits). But, if you are still on the factory transfer case at this point, then you may be good.

Now, for the quirk I mentioned earlier with the transfer case. The later 2004's (ie, manufactured after March 2004, the build date is written in the driver's door jam) were built without a viscous coupling in the transfer case. So, what this means to you is that the newer transfer cases have an "open differential" splitting the power front to rear. So, in adverse weather, if you break a single wheel loose, it will spin that one wheel and the other 3 will become dead. The fix for this is to have a car equipped with DSC (dynamic stability control). You can determine if you have this option by simply looking on the center console and you will find a button labeled "DSC". If you don't have this button, you may find that the AWD system may not be all that you are expecting in the winter where traction is limited.

As for other issues, you know about the headlights. So, I won't even go into that. The rear suspension can be tempermental if you let things get really worn. A lot of people notice that their rear wheels lean in at the top and/or that the rear tires point toward the center of the front bumper. The fix for this is pretty easy as you have to replace the upper control arm or the lower/forward control arm (the smaller of the two arms on the bottom of the rear suspension). The bushings in these wear out and cause the alignment to go out leading to rapid tire wear. The upper arm we have a replacement part that is actually a Volvo part that gives you adjustability for adjusting the caster. The lower/forward arm is something that you will have to get through the dealership. If you have questions about the rear suspension, let me know. I have done some playing with it and I am the one that found the replacement part for the upper control arm.

If you have more questions, keep them coming.
 
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