LED bulb for brake lights not working right
The problem is I can't figure out which bulbs really work and if I need to add resistors which I don't want to do. It seems no one knows for sure or can agree on the answer. I'm thinking they need canbus bulbs but I hate to buy them and have them shipped only to find out they don't work right or I need resistors, or I should've gotten the non-canbus type. It's just confusing. I just wanted led bulbs for my brake lights. I wish having a jaguar meant money fell out of the sky but it doesn't. I still have to live in the real world where my job doesn't give me enough hours and I don't get paid enough and I have more in student loans than I can pay off in 25 years.
I bought it with a loan when I was working more because I needed transportation to get to work. I see your point but I don't see the harm in finding a good deal on LED bulbs if they work. I wouldn't put in cheap oil, cheap spark plugs or cheap gas, but when it comes to light bulbs, LED's can be expensive so if I can find decent bright bulbs on ebay that work, I don't see the point in spending more right now. I'm just trying to figure out what bulbs/resistors if any I need.
I bought it with a loan when I was working more because I needed transportation to get to work. I see your point but I don't see the harm in finding a good deal on LED bulbs if they work. I wouldn't put in cheap oil, cheap spark plugs or cheap gas, but when it comes to light bulbs, LED's can be expensive so if I can find decent bright bulbs on ebay that work, I don't see the point in spending more right now. I'm just trying to figure out what bulbs/resistors if any I need.
Yeah, apparently you are because I simply asked him a question..
If I use a CANBUS led bulb in the brake light, would I need resistors? Because aren't the CANBUS bulbs supposed to have resistors built in to them? It says it will fix the blinker problem but how about if I use a CANBUS led bulb for the brake lights (1157)?
04xtype04, the canbus lights have the resistors built in, so, the need for an external resistor is not needed. Could you add one. Sure. I am not sure why you would.
Without trying to get too technical on you, I am going to try and explain what is happening when the turn signal is applied and why going to different bulbs causes the flasher to change speed. Initially, this design was created way back when when the idea of a computer or even IC chips was a dream. So, someone created a circuit that is based off of the current (not voltage) that the light bulbs use. By doing this, when a halogen light bulb failed, the amount of current that it drew dropped to zero and therefore caused the driver to know they had a bad bulb.
Now, fast foward to today. They are still using that same circuit because it is cheap and does what the driver needs. The problem comes when you start adding new technology that is more efficient. The new lights pull less current for effectively the same light output. Therefore, the circuit sees the bulb as not functioning properly and speeds up the flash rate based on how much less current it is drawing. This is where the resistor comes in. You are creating a second current path that will cause the circuit to pull more current (the amount is determined by the ohm rating of the resistor). You can in theory slow the flash rate down so it flashes really slowly by raising the current in the circuit through adding a really low ohm resistor (not recommended as every component has a maximum current that it can handle and will lead to other issues).
Hopefully this helps explain what is going on. This is why some of the LED lights will cause the flash rate to only pick up a little bit while others will cause it to flash excessively fast (all based on the current the LEDs are pulling).
Without trying to get too technical on you, I am going to try and explain what is happening when the turn signal is applied and why going to different bulbs causes the flasher to change speed. Initially, this design was created way back when when the idea of a computer or even IC chips was a dream. So, someone created a circuit that is based off of the current (not voltage) that the light bulbs use. By doing this, when a halogen light bulb failed, the amount of current that it drew dropped to zero and therefore caused the driver to know they had a bad bulb.
Now, fast foward to today. They are still using that same circuit because it is cheap and does what the driver needs. The problem comes when you start adding new technology that is more efficient. The new lights pull less current for effectively the same light output. Therefore, the circuit sees the bulb as not functioning properly and speeds up the flash rate based on how much less current it is drawing. This is where the resistor comes in. You are creating a second current path that will cause the circuit to pull more current (the amount is determined by the ohm rating of the resistor). You can in theory slow the flash rate down so it flashes really slowly by raising the current in the circuit through adding a really low ohm resistor (not recommended as every component has a maximum current that it can handle and will lead to other issues).
Hopefully this helps explain what is going on. This is why some of the LED lights will cause the flash rate to only pick up a little bit while others will cause it to flash excessively fast (all based on the current the LEDs are pulling).
My package of 194 led bulbs came today and I replaced the front parking lights in the high beams, the license plate lights, and the side markers by the front door. They were a little tricky to get in. The front lights are really crammed by the battery and it wouldn't come out. The passenger side popped the headlight out of place when I was pushing it in, so I had to get that to pop back in place. Also, I dropped the side marker wire down the hole by the wheelwell area. Had to fish that back out with a stick. Other than that they look really nice. Especially the license plate lights. The front lights are pretty dim looking, but they at least light up the high beam reflector with a white light, where before they were a really yellowish dim halogen color. I have a few more, I'm not sure if I should do the other running lights or save them if I need extras. Very happy with the results though. Car looks much more vibrant and new. Can't wait til I get around to getting some led brake lights and turn signals, and maybe the interior lights too if I get around to it.
Last edited by 04xtype04; Feb 15, 2014 at 09:35 PM.
04xtype04, the brake lights don't have any sort of "current control" feature to them. So, adding a resistor will not benefit you any. Can you add a resistor? Sure. But, in part, you are defeating why you are installing LEDs (for lower power consumption). The same can be said about your running lights, license plate lights, back up lights, and any other light that is on continuously.
If you start talking about say a Ford vehicle that uses a combo brake light/running light/turn signal, then yes, the brake lights would need to have a resistor added as they also double as a turn signal. But, that is something completely outside of our vehicles. But, this may explain why you see some people saying that it "must be done". For every rule, there is an exception.
If you start talking about say a Ford vehicle that uses a combo brake light/running light/turn signal, then yes, the brake lights would need to have a resistor added as they also double as a turn signal. But, that is something completely outside of our vehicles. But, this may explain why you see some people saying that it "must be done". For every rule, there is an exception.
Ah thanks for clearing that up. Ok I found the perfect cree LED bulbs I am going to get on ebay for the brake lights then. They are a 7w cree with about 8 bulbs. Should be bright enough.
I replaced the rest of my running lights today with the 194 LED's. They were tricky to get out but they look good. The red ones are a little pink, but it's cool. The amber ones really look yellow which is nice. I only had trouble with one LED bulb, it was very picky about where it sat in the socket, and would only light up if it were just right. I put it in and it's working fine for now, so hopefully it doesn't give me any problems or I will have to wiggle it around and try to try to adjust the contacts. Other than that it looks cool. Can't wait to see it at night. Wanting to do the others but this is a good start. It looks more high tech already.
I replaced the rest of my running lights today with the 194 LED's. They were tricky to get out but they look good. The red ones are a little pink, but it's cool. The amber ones really look yellow which is nice. I only had trouble with one LED bulb, it was very picky about where it sat in the socket, and would only light up if it were just right. I put it in and it's working fine for now, so hopefully it doesn't give me any problems or I will have to wiggle it around and try to try to adjust the contacts. Other than that it looks cool. Can't wait to see it at night. Wanting to do the others but this is a good start. It looks more high tech already.
Last edited by 04xtype04; Feb 16, 2014 at 03:39 PM.
Ah thanks for clearing that up. Ok I found the perfect cree LED bulbs I am going to get on ebay for the brake lights then. They are a 7w cree with about 8 bulbs. Should be bright enough. I replaced the rest of my running lights today with the 194 LED's. They were tricky to get out but they look good. The red ones are a little pink, but it's cool. The amber ones really look yellow which is nice. I only had trouble with one LED bulb, it was very picky about where it sat in the socket, and would only light up if it were just right. I put it in and it's working fine for now, so hopefully it doesn't give me any problems or I will have to wiggle it around and try to try to adjust the contacts. Other than that it looks cool. Can't wait to see it at night. Wanting to do the others but this is a good start. It looks more high tech already.
Yea that's a good idea... I don't have a video camera but even a photo walkthrough would be good. I wasn't sure how the corner lights came out at first. One side has a clip that presses the other side in. So it takes some wiggling around, and using some plastic cards to pry it out. You want enough force to pop the clip out but without damaging or snapping the light.
PS I haven't had any feeling in my thumb since replacing the bulbs yesterday. Hope it comes back. It kind of feels like when your foot's asleep.
PS I haven't had any feeling in my thumb since replacing the bulbs yesterday. Hope it comes back. It kind of feels like when your foot's asleep.
Yea that's a good idea... I don't have a video camera but even a photo walkthrough would be good. I wasn't sure how the corner lights came out at first. One side has a clip that presses the other side in. So it takes some wiggling around, and using some plastic cards to pry it out. You want enough force to pop the clip out but without damaging or snapping the light. PS I haven't had any feeling in my thumb since replacing the bulbs yesterday. Hope it comes back. It kind of feels like when your foot's asleep.
I want to see a vid or pic tutorial on the brake lights.
Dang was that the special Jaguar rate? lol. They are tricky to take out but that's just absurd. A half hour of labor would be plenty generous enough and a few bucks for the bulbs if he knew what he was doing.
Haha nah man, not even a half hour.. I had the bulbs changed for all four side markers in 5 minutes
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