My alternator problem is not working...
#1
07-05-2011, 09:47 AM
My alternator problem is not working...
Hello,
I have been reading the forum for a while, and now i have a serious problem.
My alternator is not charging the battery or doing anything. I had a little crash 2 weeks ago: The front right wheel hit the sideway at 50km/h aprox, the car jumped and the side of the tire got split, so I changed the tire and problem solved. But after a week I realised the alternator was not working and I don't know if it has something to do with that incident.
I have charge the battery outside the car, and I have checked 12,5V in the battery (engine started) and going down as the time passes.
Then I checked the 3 wires from the alternator, but at the up side of the engine:
I want to know what else to check and if I shoud check those leads at the bottom, touching the alternator (I didn't do that before because it was a bit difficult to do because of not enough light). Changing the alternator is very expensive here, and the way it has stopped working (all of a sudden) looks weird.
I Hope someone can help me
I have been reading the forum for a while, and now i have a serious problem.
My alternator is not charging the battery or doing anything. I had a little crash 2 weeks ago: The front right wheel hit the sideway at 50km/h aprox, the car jumped and the side of the tire got split, so I changed the tire and problem solved. But after a week I realised the alternator was not working and I don't know if it has something to do with that incident.
I have charge the battery outside the car, and I have checked 12,5V in the battery (engine started) and going down as the time passes.
Then I checked the 3 wires from the alternator, but at the up side of the engine:
- one of them was at the same voltage as the positive from the battery (0,1V down I think);
- the other one was at 0,57V,
- and the third one was at 7,47V.
I want to know what else to check and if I shoud check those leads at the bottom, touching the alternator (I didn't do that before because it was a bit difficult to do because of not enough light). Changing the alternator is very expensive here, and the way it has stopped working (all of a sudden) looks weird.
I Hope someone can help me
#4
07-19-2011, 11:27 AM
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I'm not sure, private message Thermo if you can, he is the resident expert but I'm pretty sure when you check the voltage at the battery with the motor running you should see something like 14.7 V.
The other thing I would check are whether or not all your cables are firmly attached. Maybe your accident caused something to loosen.
The other thing I would check are whether or not all your cables are firmly attached. Maybe your accident caused something to loosen.
#5
07-19-2011, 03:58 PM
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#6
07-19-2011, 05:38 PM
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Ernest, ok, this should be fairly simple. It sounds like you have access to the alternator, so, this is what I want you to do: If you look on the alternator, you will see a large wire coming off of the back of the alternator and then a 4 wire plug on the side of the alternator. First, measure the voltage at the large single post with the motor running and write the voltage down. Next, locate the green wire with a red stripe (don't confuse it with the red wire and a green stripe). Measure the voltage there and write that down. Finally measure the orange/green wire and write that voltage down.
Ok, now for figuring out what is wrong with your car. If the large single wire is up at 13.7 VDC or higher, you have a bad wire between the alternator and the starter (you don't mention any problems with getting the motor started). If the voltage on the large single wire is under 13.0 VDC and the green wire with a red stripe is reading under 12.0 VDC, you have either a bad fuse (Fuse F6, a 7.5 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box) or the green/red wire has a problem and a new wire needs to be run. If the green wire with a red stripe is up above 12.0 VDC but the red wire with a green stripe is under 11.0 VDC, you have a problem with the GEM or the wire between the alternator and the GEM. If the green wire wtih a red stripe is above 12.0 VDC and the red wire with a green stripe is above 12.0 VDC, then your alternator is toast and you need a new alternator.
Hope this helps and if you need any more info, let me know. Please keep in mind that this assumes you have a car made after March 2004. If you have one made before then, let me know as the fuse number is slightly different (Jag made a design change to the car and renumbered things).
Ok, now for figuring out what is wrong with your car. If the large single wire is up at 13.7 VDC or higher, you have a bad wire between the alternator and the starter (you don't mention any problems with getting the motor started). If the voltage on the large single wire is under 13.0 VDC and the green wire with a red stripe is reading under 12.0 VDC, you have either a bad fuse (Fuse F6, a 7.5 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box) or the green/red wire has a problem and a new wire needs to be run. If the green wire with a red stripe is up above 12.0 VDC but the red wire with a green stripe is under 11.0 VDC, you have a problem with the GEM or the wire between the alternator and the GEM. If the green wire wtih a red stripe is above 12.0 VDC and the red wire with a green stripe is above 12.0 VDC, then your alternator is toast and you need a new alternator.
Hope this helps and if you need any more info, let me know. Please keep in mind that this assumes you have a car made after March 2004. If you have one made before then, let me know as the fuse number is slightly different (Jag made a design change to the car and renumbered things).
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#7
07-22-2011, 06:08 AM
Thank you very much for your help, Thermo.
I am going to check all those things in the next hours and I will post the results. I think you're right and my car is made after March 2004, because the fuse numbers are all like that (Fxx) and I don't have a fuse 82 for example.
P.S: I was away from the computer these days.
I am going to check all those things in the next hours and I will post the results. I think you're right and my car is made after March 2004, because the fuse numbers are all like that (Fxx) and I don't have a fuse 82 for example.
P.S: I was away from the computer these days.
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#8
07-22-2011, 01:44 PM
Hello Thermo,
I have checked the voltage of the wires coming off of the alternator
.
But I think you told me about the diagram of the gasoline car model (my car is 2.0L diesel engine, sorry for not clarifying that, i only wrote 2.0D) because the F6 fuse is not present in my car and in my car manual says it's gasoline model exclusive this fuse.
I have realised that my alternator have a 3 wire plug (not four wire), and i have measured them. Here they are, from top to bottom as they are:
Those nearly 8V are telling me that i have to say goodbye to my alternator? I hope I am wrong.
I am awaiting for your analysis or your instructions, Thermo.
Thanks again.
I have checked the voltage of the wires coming off of the alternator
.But I think you told me about the diagram of the gasoline car model (my car is 2.0L diesel engine, sorry for not clarifying that, i only wrote 2.0D) because the F6 fuse is not present in my car and in my car manual says it's gasoline model exclusive this fuse.
I have realised that my alternator have a 3 wire plug (not four wire), and i have measured them. Here they are, from top to bottom as they are:
- Brown: 7,94VDC at 2000rpm (it was not stable at idle rpm: 6,5-8,5VDC).
- Orange-Yellow striped: 4,75VDC
- White: 11,55VDC (this is the same as the positive of the battery, it was a bit discharged during the test)
Those nearly 8V are telling me that i have to say goodbye to my alternator? I hope I am wrong.
I am awaiting for your analysis or your instructions, Thermo.
Thanks again.
Last edited by ernest0; 07-22-2011 at 08:12 PM.
#9
07-22-2011, 09:15 PM
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ernest, as for the fuse, I am simply telling you what the JTIS is telling me. I am going to see what I can find out by looking around inside of the JTIS. I am giving you the info for the 2.0L diesel engine. Occassionally there are little errors in the diagrams like this that I find.
As for the wiring colors that you are talking about, those are completely different than what I am seeing. So, I want to go about this a different way. If you look at the plug for the alternator, you should see 4 wires coming off of it. If you remove the plug and do a very detailed look at the plug, down near where either the wires go into the top of the plug or the face of the plug that goes into the alternator, you will see the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4. If you would, relate these numbers to the wire colors that you are seeing. This will help me give you better information as I will match up the wires and their functions.
Just for your reference, I am listing the pins and their functions so if you have some electrical knowledge, you may be able to make sense of what is going on.
Pin 1 (generator control signal), Red/green wire
Pin 2 (power from fuse box to power the regulator/field), Green/red wire. Should be at the same voltage as you see across the battery. If you have more than a 0.2 VDC difference, you have an issue with the wire or the fuse itself.
Pin 3 (Field control), orange/green wire (your brown wire? sometimes the orange will darken and look brown). This will fluctuate to maintain the output of the alternator at the desired voltage. As long as this voltage is not 0 VDC or battery voltage (12 ish volts), then it is good.
Pin 4 (battery light signal on the dash), blue wire. This should be up at battery voltage. When it drops below battery voltage, it triggers the computer to trip on the battery light on the dash.
keep in mind that the wire colors I listed for the pins are what are called out on the diagrams in the JTIS. These are the same colors that have been used since the X-Type was first starting to be built. So, unless someone had to replace the plug for the alternator, I am not sure what is going on. If you do have a new plug that was added, I would look at those connections where the plug was spliced into the factory wiring. If they are a few years old, I would venture to guess that is where you problem is. The alternators for these cars are actually very reliable and hardly ever fail. Not to say that they can't. but, it is a rarity.
As for the wiring colors that you are talking about, those are completely different than what I am seeing. So, I want to go about this a different way. If you look at the plug for the alternator, you should see 4 wires coming off of it. If you remove the plug and do a very detailed look at the plug, down near where either the wires go into the top of the plug or the face of the plug that goes into the alternator, you will see the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4. If you would, relate these numbers to the wire colors that you are seeing. This will help me give you better information as I will match up the wires and their functions.
Just for your reference, I am listing the pins and their functions so if you have some electrical knowledge, you may be able to make sense of what is going on.
Pin 1 (generator control signal), Red/green wire
Pin 2 (power from fuse box to power the regulator/field), Green/red wire. Should be at the same voltage as you see across the battery. If you have more than a 0.2 VDC difference, you have an issue with the wire or the fuse itself.
Pin 3 (Field control), orange/green wire (your brown wire? sometimes the orange will darken and look brown). This will fluctuate to maintain the output of the alternator at the desired voltage. As long as this voltage is not 0 VDC or battery voltage (12 ish volts), then it is good.
Pin 4 (battery light signal on the dash), blue wire. This should be up at battery voltage. When it drops below battery voltage, it triggers the computer to trip on the battery light on the dash.
keep in mind that the wire colors I listed for the pins are what are called out on the diagrams in the JTIS. These are the same colors that have been used since the X-Type was first starting to be built. So, unless someone had to replace the plug for the alternator, I am not sure what is going on. If you do have a new plug that was added, I would look at those connections where the plug was spliced into the factory wiring. If they are a few years old, I would venture to guess that is where you problem is. The alternators for these cars are actually very reliable and hardly ever fail. Not to say that they can't. but, it is a rarity.
#10
08-08-2011, 08:13 AM
Hello again, Thermo. I was on holidays for two weeks far from the car, so i could not check it again.
Now i'm back, I have some photos of the plug of my alternator. I have never changed it. The car was from my father, and he says he has never changed the alternator. Here are the photos with the 3wire plug. I don't know if I am not checking the right plug:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I have also found this on JTIS under X-Type 2004.25, in the section 414-00 Charging system - General informations, subsection Description and Operation:
What should i do. I sincerely appreciate your help.
Greetings!
Now i'm back, I have some photos of the plug of my alternator. I have never changed it. The car was from my father, and he says he has never changed the alternator. Here are the photos with the 3wire plug. I don't know if I am not checking the right plug:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I have also found this on JTIS under X-Type 2004.25, in the section 414-00 Charging system - General informations, subsection Description and Operation:
There are three wires connected to the generator from the ECM by connector EN16:
EN49-1; RG wire, is the voltage regulator request setting from the ECM to the generator.
EN49-3; OG wire, is a pulse width modulated signal (PWM) from the generator to the ECM which enables the ECM to monitor the generator load on the engine.
EN49-4; U wire, is the charge warning lamp signal wire from the generator to the ECM.
EN49-1; RG wire, is the voltage regulator request setting from the ECM to the generator.
EN49-3; OG wire, is a pulse width modulated signal (PWM) from the generator to the ECM which enables the ECM to monitor the generator load on the engine.
EN49-4; U wire, is the charge warning lamp signal wire from the generator to the ECM.
Vehicles With A 2.0L Diesel Engine
The diesel charging system differs from that used in petrol-engined variants in that it incorporates a 'smartcharge' function.
This function is capable of supplying infinitely variable voltages to the battery, depending on the temperature and on the current requirements of the battery.
The system continuously monitors the battery voltage and temperature (via the ambient air temperature sensor), and uses a map of both to deliver the optimum charge to the battery.
Another feature of this system is that it uses a 'wake-up' and 'sleep' strategy, initiated by the ignition switch position and ECM, rather than being constantly active, to avoid current drain.
The diesel charging system differs from that used in petrol-engined variants in that it incorporates a 'smartcharge' function.
This function is capable of supplying infinitely variable voltages to the battery, depending on the temperature and on the current requirements of the battery.
The system continuously monitors the battery voltage and temperature (via the ambient air temperature sensor), and uses a map of both to deliver the optimum charge to the battery.
Another feature of this system is that it uses a 'wake-up' and 'sleep' strategy, initiated by the ignition switch position and ECM, rather than being constantly active, to avoid current drain.
Greetings!
#11
08-08-2011, 04:52 PM
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Ernest, I am a little perplexed on this one. There is something askew with this and I need to look at my car to see what is going on. Hopefully that will give me some insight as to what you are seeing and make more sense to me.
On a side note, what is that on the wiring? For example, on the top wire (orange), what is that sticking out the top of the wire? Is that exposed copper? On the middle wire (yellow) the side of the wire facing the camera, is the insulation damaged there? Just trying to make sure that I am seeing what I think I am seeing.
On a side note, what is that on the wiring? For example, on the top wire (orange), what is that sticking out the top of the wire? Is that exposed copper? On the middle wire (yellow) the side of the wire facing the camera, is the insulation damaged there? Just trying to make sure that I am seeing what I think I am seeing.
#12
08-10-2011, 11:18 AM
Thermo, those little zones of exposed copper are where i took the measures using the multimeter, I pricked the insulation with the test probes (maybe it wasn't necessary... 
how do you do that from over the engine?).
This afternoon I am going to follow every wire, take some photos and try to tell you where they are going to. The voltage of each of them is in an earlier post.
how do you do that from over the engine?).This afternoon I am going to follow every wire, take some photos and try to tell you where they are going to. The voltage of each of them is in an earlier post.
#13
08-10-2011, 02:29 PM
Well, the 3 wire plug from the alternator goes to another 3 wire plug, and after this plug every wire has a different color than before (checked).
From alternator plug ---> After another plug. Voltage
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Light Brown ---> White 7,94V
Orange-yellow stripe ---> Light brown 4,75V
White ---> Orange-Yellow stripe 11,55V (the same as the positive of the battery, it was quite discharged).
Photos of this plug where the colors change:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
After this plug, the 3 wires goes to a very big plug:
White goes to pin1
Light brown goes to pin25 I think.
And Orange-yellow stripe goes to pin42
Photos of this plug:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I couldn't measure the big cable coming off of the alternator, it seems to go to the starter and to the battery, but assuming the alternator is not charging the battery, it should be the same as the + battery, shouldn't it?. Here is another photo of that cable:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
From alternator plug ---> After another plug. Voltage
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Light Brown ---> White 7,94V
Orange-yellow stripe ---> Light brown 4,75V
White ---> Orange-Yellow stripe 11,55V (the same as the positive of the battery, it was quite discharged).
Photos of this plug where the colors change:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
After this plug, the 3 wires goes to a very big plug:
White goes to pin1
Light brown goes to pin25 I think.
And Orange-yellow stripe goes to pin42
Photos of this plug:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I couldn't measure the big cable coming off of the alternator, it seems to go to the starter and to the battery, but assuming the alternator is not charging the battery, it should be the same as the + battery, shouldn't it?. Here is another photo of that cable:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#14
08-28-2011, 09:20 AM
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Pardon my non-Jaquar interuption, but I found this thread with a google search for "Alternator not working after wreck". Ernesto mentioned that his alternator problem mysteriously started after he had a "wreck" and also was wondering if there could be a connection. I am just looking for a brief coment or two since I am not interested in hijacking this thread, but maybe Erneto's alternator problem is related to mine.
I read the entire post but it seems to have stalled on 8/11. (not the automobile, just the post) Anyway, I was wondering if Thermo or anyone else has ever heard of the jolt from a fender-bender causeing an alernator to suddenly stop working that same day? The day after the wreck the starter just "clicked". A jumpstart worked. I did check the alternantor with an idiot light, and it shows a red light which means alternator not charging.
In either my case or Earneto"s case, is it possible that maybe alternator brushes or something could be dislodged in a light to medium broadside impact? Thanks for any insight you might have on this general question. This just seems to much of a coincidence for me.
My alternator is not charging the battery or doing anything. I had a little crash 2 weeks ago: The front right wheel hit the sideway at 50km/h aprox, the car jumped and the side of the tire got split, so I changed the tire and problem solved. But after a week I realised the alternator was not working and I don't know if it has something to do with that incident.
I read the entire post but it seems to have stalled on 8/11. (not the automobile, just the post) Anyway, I was wondering if Thermo or anyone else has ever heard of the jolt from a fender-bender causeing an alernator to suddenly stop working that same day? The day after the wreck the starter just "clicked". A jumpstart worked. I did check the alternantor with an idiot light, and it shows a red light which means alternator not charging.
In either my case or Earneto"s case, is it possible that maybe alternator brushes or something could be dislodged in a light to medium broadside impact? Thanks for any insight you might have on this general question. This just seems to much of a coincidence for me.
My alternator is not charging the battery or doing anything. I had a little crash 2 weeks ago: The front right wheel hit the sideway at 50km/h aprox, the car jumped and the side of the tire got split, so I changed the tire and problem solved. But after a week I realised the alternator was not working and I don't know if it has something to do with that incident.
#15
08-28-2011, 04:00 PM
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It is plausible that a hard impact could dislodge something within the alternator, however an alternator is designed to be a pretty robust piece of equipment and the chances of a light to medium impact dislodging the brushes are slim. On another note, if there was a preexisting condition, such as a loose or corroded connection within, an impact could possibly finish it off for you. Checking the voltages to the Stator, Regulator and output terminal should be your first step in diagnostics whenever possible. This will let you know if the problem is at the Alternator or somewhere else within the circuit. An alternative to this would be having the alternator bench tested, However, if it tests good you are back to checking voltages at your leads anyway.
#18
01-17-2019, 12:34 PM
did you manage to solve this
#19
01-17-2019, 01:17 PM
Veteran Member
Very old thread. It's usually better to start a new thread with your problem if it's over a couple of years old. This one is 8.
That being said =
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622
P1632 is another alternator code.
Most likely your alternator has died . Just be sure to buy an OEM Jaguar one as many of the lesser expensive Asian Web ones do not work using the 3 step charging method required on X's. Or if there is a qualified rebuilder in your area you can go that route.
That being said =
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622
P1632 is another alternator code.
Most likely your alternator has died . Just be sure to buy an OEM Jaguar one as many of the lesser expensive Asian Web ones do not work using the 3 step charging method required on X's. Or if there is a qualified rebuilder in your area you can go that route.
#20
01-18-2019, 03:04 AM
Very old thread. It's usually better to start a new thread with your problem if it's over a couple of years old. This one is 8.
That being said =
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622
P1632 is another alternator code.
Most likely your alternator has died . Just be sure to buy an OEM Jaguar one as many of the lesser expensive Asian Web ones do not work using the 3 step charging method required on X's. Or if there is a qualified rebuilder in your area you can go that route.
That being said =
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622
P1632 is another alternator code.
Most likely your alternator has died . Just be sure to buy an OEM Jaguar one as many of the lesser expensive Asian Web ones do not work using the 3 step charging method required on X's. Or if there is a qualified rebuilder in your area you can go that route.