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One caution in doing this with the nipper. Initially, I was trying to cut the hole even closer to the actual ring size. In several places the distance tolerance from metal to pump ring is very short. The nipper I used has a "jackhammer" piston moving REALLY fast and (unknown) protrudes out the bottom of the cutting tip a bit. I luckily was over cautious in removing sections (not putting plate back in, more on this in future) & noticed it was chewing up the top (and protruding plastic tabs) on the ring. Just altered my thinking and enlarged the cut hole a bit to compensate. Not a big deal at all. The for the lack of a better description, asphalt shingle coating in some places of cutting with the nipper (thickness) were taken care of easily with scoring and a sharp chisel with light taps.
This will amuse some, another caution with nipper use. Wear long pants, obviously eye protection, noise was really not bad. Hot (97°) here so was in shorts. The nipper when used (& I was cautious in pressure applied) cuts 1/2 circle pieces of steel (think of a cut finger nail) about 1/8-3/16"(?) wide left to right and miniscule back to forward. Went to reposition myself and holy ****!! Though a nest of ants were in my pants. The shavings had filled both "pant" legs of my shorts with sharp not people friendly metal shards. Ok, lesson learned, wear long pants. The ones in the socks, down side of shoes into foot were not so hot either but nothing like sitting on stinging nettle, lol.
I just noticed, on my picture showing the yellow tag on pump top, you can see some of the "ants in my pants" metal shavings in the recessed dimples. I had vacuumed the car up before photos.
Dell: Making Progress! A few shared learnings for the next steps.....
1) When you loosen and remove the white retaining ring, pay close attention to the position of the green O-ring and possibly a thin metal split ring sandwiched with the O-ring, pictured below. I don't know if some or all X-Types have this thin metal band, as I could not find any mention of it in the workshop manual or JEPC. And there are no instructions or pictures that I could find to show if the L-shaped profile faces up or down. I recall trying it one way and being dissatisfied with the seal, then flipping it over for a much improved seal, as measured by the absence of petrol fuels in the passenger compartment.
2) The green O-ring was slightly stretched, I presume from 10+ years compression under the white retaining ring. I attempted to reuse it, but found the diameter too large to form a good seal. Solution: A new O-ring, part # C2S8592 for ~$20 proved a much better seal.
Thx for the heads up, dw. Btw, anyone interested in buying a ring tool, I bought a generic one, but there is a "dedicated" one. Various places will tell you different numbers but they all are really the same (different prefix for different auto makers). The base code part # is 310-123.
I did see one piece of advice from a Mustang owner (same base #, different prefix letters), said because it's sealed against the rubber seal as well as the pump loaded spring, to put downward pressure when you use and remove the ring. He even mentioned that's why "banging" as I did is more difficult if tightly sealed and older seated gaskets (X's)
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 08-03-2018 at 11:07 PM.
Only parts store that could get me an o ring C2S8549 in Utah is Advance. Coming from Fresno, CA @ &17.46 & no shipping charge, Sat. Order, Wed. Delivery. Better safe than sorry.
Oh, and also downward pressure when reinstalling the ring. I'm going to put a little "fluid film" spray on it prior to installing. Being an old ranch boy, pretty familiar with the great attributes of it.
Well, it's done!! Old pump out and used pump installed. Took it for a 100 mile drive. No codes, no stuttering, fuel pressure good. Tested the new/used pump sensor sitting outside the tank as mine has always drained the main (LHD) passenger tank with 80-95 miles left on range. It worked outside of installation showing low fuel light and NAV warning. Somehow the main pump never would transfer all the fuel from the driver's side to the main side and the low fuel light nor NAV warning never showed up. With 3 gallons in a gas can in the trunk, drove it to "empty". At 30 miles range left, the low fuel light illuminated and the NAV warning came up. What a relief to have that off the worry list for the future.
One difference I noticed during replacement, the o-ring depicted above was different than the original. The original was flat and had a groove down the middle of it on both sides where the top of the fuel pump rim pressed into it. Mine did not have a metal "L" piece as noted by DW above. BUT, the new gasket made more sense to me. It is flat on the side towards the fuel pump hole and rounded on the top, outside and underside, if that makes sense. Think of if you cut it, looked at the end it would form the letter "D". When installed and the locking ring installed, the rounded part(s) fit snugly into the rounded molding of the locking ring. And it was stretched out a bit, so putting the new one in was well advised.
The other really pleasant surprise was the fuel tank looked like it was installed yesterday. Not one bit of sediment, dirt, nothing!
Thanks for your excellent advice and guidance.
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 08-11-2018 at 11:19 AM.
Dell: Congrats!!! That first successful test drive is a great feeling.
IIRC, when I installed the new green O-ring it, it had a circular cross section, whereas the old O-ring had a square cross section, very flat on the inside edge. See pictures in post #44. I simply assumed the old O-ring started with a circular cross section and was flattened and stretched by 10+ years of compression under the retaining ring.
Dw, notice in my pic posted the old one is shown and is/was black not green. It was circular, flat like a normal fiber or paper gasket (thicker) about ~40-50% wider than the new green one and in the middle of the circumference (bi-secting inner and outer) was a groove on either top or bottom side. If you expand the pic you can see color and the groove. I shot the pic to actually try documenting the possible "L" metal ring you mentioned, but not one on mine.
Hey dw, note this statement by a British Jag Tech. I was just researching a small bothersome (very small evap leak) that occasionally occurs mostly when I idle stationary for a pretty good period. Not a big thing just bothersome sometimes.
Dell: Interesting and as odd as 2 incompatible electrical connectors on the fuel pump, with no way to know what's on your X-Type until you dismantle the tank. Ugh!
British Jaguar engineers, or American Ford Engineers, or maybe the consequence of them colaborating!
The 2 electrical connector differences on the pump (& no adapter) just kept eating at me. That even Jaguar cannot tell what is on any specific car is inconceivable to me. So, I had a thought = perhaps the difference was manufacturing site. So I called the very knowledgeable (SO rare) Jag guy in Las Vegas to run it by him.
Nope he checked it out long ago as well. It boggles the mind!! Smfh.
So here is my hole repair. Took toolbox rubber mat, cut a smaller circle for hole, larger to cover the entire cut. Rubber cemented the smaller to the larger, then rubber cemented it in place for easy future removal if needed. Then I covered the entire back seat pan with Zirgo Ultramat for sound deadening and heat/air insulation.
08-03-2018, 05:13 PM
