Well i finally found an X type today....2004 3.0 Sport, black on black. 102000 miles $6200...i test drove it today and loved it!. (drove 4 hrs away to see it)
I left a deposit and he will deliver it for me tomorrow. I was tooooo excited to go over everything on the car....i turned into a teenager again and forgot all my valuable inspecting skills!.

I did hook up my OBD2 scanner, and there was a P1000 pending code.

He'll be here with the car tomorrow morning and i want to be sure this isn't something too diabolic to fix, if it is i'll want to reduce the price of course.

I'll post pics tomorrow(ish).....doubt i'll get much sleep tonite!

 

This may not be allot of help but look at this thread. It's not a code you can clear yourself. It has to clear itself. I think there is a good chance the owner cleared out other codes. If that's the case you will have that code until it resets if everything is ok. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...asy-way-50358/

A tech posted this in that thread. After 16 yrs of teaching Ford OBDII drivability and the Xtype basically running Ford software. P1000 is a normaly occurs after the Dtcs are cleared. It does not indicate a fault but as in previous thread just means not all of the OBDII monitors have completed.

 

thanks for the speedy reply!.....i had just found that info and am now more worried, was the PO trying to "pull a fast one?"
clearing the codes long enough for me to test drive it.
He lives 200 miles away so when he delivers it it should show the P1111 testing complete code or the original codes that were cleared.
If he arrives and it shows the same P1000 code i assume it'll be likely he cleared the codes again just before arriving at my house?
I don't want to ask him about this before he comes as i don't want to give him a heads up that ill be re-testing it when it arrives.
any advice??

 

Drive a bout 30 miles down the freeway with about a half tank of gas. This should goe through the drive cycle to reset a monitors. If there is a monitored fault it will reset unless its intermittent, or already repaired and cleared

 

the area i test drove the car was a built up suburban area with no chance to "put my foot down" so when he arrives tomorrow i'll take it and him for a blast down the interstate and see what happens....i'm still major excited so even if the car has issues i'll still probably take it, though with a reduced price if the check engine light appears.
The car i sold to fund this had check engine light issues....i fixed all the problems before re-selling it, i'm part of the 4% :+)

 

Make sure that the CEL bulb is still in. I once bought a car, no CEL so all is well. Then a world of pain, turns out he had removed the bulb from the dash. Now I always check by turning the igniotion to on but not started. But like everyone says, if he's driving it 2 hrs to deliver it, it should be cleared, no light. P1111 will always be there if you plug in the code reader.

 

The battery is kapot, we had to jump it to restart it when he arrived, so that at least explains (possibly) the P1000.
I'll get a battery tomorrow (i bought the car today)
if the P1111 doesn't arrive soon after i'll start to worry :+)

 

Hope he gave you a discount because of the bad battery. If you get the one that belongs in it they are quite expensive.

 

i was so excited i didn't want to spoil my day haggling....got it nearly 3k under book value, so i'm ok with putting some $ into it from day 1 :+)

 

iownme, if you are still getting perpetual P1000 codes, if you have a bad battery, when you are attempting to start the car, it can drag the voltage down enough that the computer will see it as loosing power and result in a resetting of the computer. You may also find that the auto up and down features of the windows will not work in this case too. It would explain a few things with what you are seeing with the car.

 

i was relieved to find it had a bad battery...that answered my question as to the P1000 code....now i just have to wait to get the plates so i can drive it around and see if i get any horror codes..hehe....should have the plates on monday

 

This just happened today with mine. It went into limp mode after CEL came on. I disconnected the battery to clean the terminals, now the window up feature doesn't work.

Also got a P0121, P1316 and a P0304.

Any ideas, CEL is on and limp mode is random and does reset for a few min after turning off car.

 

bzavasnik, as for your windows not being auto any more, you will need to reprogram them. THis is easy. Simply start with the Driver's window and lower the window by holding the window switch in the down position. Continue holding the switch down for 3-4 seconds after the window is fully down. Next, hold the switch in the up position to shut the window, again, holding the switch in the shut position for 3-4 seconds after the window is fully shut. Repeat this for each of the windows. Once this is done, the windows will have the auto feature restored.

As for the codes you are getting, the P0304 code is saying that you are getting a misfire on cylinder #4. As for P0121, that is a throttle position sensor fault. I would first check the wires going to the plug for the TPS at the throttlebody. THese have been known to have issues and can cause what you are seeing. As for P1316, that is a general injector trouble code. That is more than likely related to the P0121 code as the amount of time the injectors are open is a function of the TPS voltage.

So, I would start with the TPS plug and then go from there. IT is possible that the TPS can have issues, but the likelihood of that is pretty low. COuld also be that the throttlebody is sticking, leading to issues. That would need you to use some throttle body cleaner and spray out the inside of the throttlebody to remove any tarnish that may have formed.

If you need more help, let me know.

 

I noticed last night that it looks like the TPS plug was replaced before. Someone cut the wires and just used electrical tape to reconnect them. It got dark before I could dig any further, but I'll take a closer look at it tonight.

Thanks for the window trick.

The misfire on 4 had shown up before but went away on it's own. Well, maybe it didn't go away, but the CEL turned off.

 

This code means nothing other than the Engine and all systems are OK. Mine comes on now and then, more then then now. When I stop the car and let it sit for a few minutes and restart it doesn't come on again. It has happened twice in the year I owned the car. My OBD II checker shows it means all systems are OK, but as someone mentioned the full engine check was not complete when you drove off.

 

In the X-type, you will generally need to do 2 or 3 starts to get a code to re-appear.

 

bza, I would recommend getting your hands on some Raychem heat shrink (part number WCSF-070). This is heavy duty heat shrink that also seals itself to the insulation. This is good because you don't have to worry about water intrusion in the future and essentially makes the wiring as if it had never been cut. Just make sure to solder the wires together before applying the heat shrink. You will want to overlap the heat shrink about 1/2 to 1" on each end. This will give the heat shrink enough overlap to make a good seal. If you are worried about this surviving under the hood, this stuff is rated to survive a nuclear reactor explosion (I use this stuff at work and can be bought on E-bay). It will survive the engine bay with no problems.

 

Will do the solder and shrink wrap.

I drove the car to work this morning, CEL is on but no limp mode. At lunch I started the car and the CEL turned off.

Leads me to believe that it could be a loose wire on the plug, gonna check it now. LOL, just another thing to do....Ugh. The wife got rear ended in the Rover yesterday at lunch time. I was 2 cars in front of her (yes, we go home for lunch) and heard the 4 car pile-up crunching. Yep, was a really bad day yesterday.

 

The Landrover i sold, when i bought it, not only was the CEL removed, but about 5 others also!...flush mounted LED's...not replacable. So another cluster was bought on ebay, unfortunately as the odometer did not match up with the ECU odometer it caused the odometer to continually flash, causing a note of concern to most, making it tough to resell. tried selling for many months...got so buggy about getting a jag i sold it for $3250..t'was a happy day when it sold!...of course i fixed all the problems causing the other lights to illuminate!.

The X had a bad battery when it arrived, so it still had the P1000 and we had to jump it to restart it. It'll be registered in the morning so i can drive it at last!...i'll post when i get the P1111 (or a CEL :+)

 

The proper way to splice wire together is to twist it and solder it. Then apply a rubber shrink wrap to it, this will make sure the connection is strong and water proof.