well i just bought a 2003 x type last night from a auction and im pretty sure i blew it up.... car was overheating and i found a coolant leak from the bottom of the over flow bottle.... well being as i was far from home i temp repaired the bottle (or so i thought) was heading back down the road and made it pretty far before it started overheating again. but this time the engine cut off on me got pulled over and waited a bit thinking it had just got to hot and needed to cool. popped the hood and found oil on top of the trans but cant really see where its coming from. tried to restart it and it wont turn over. the starter spins and i can see the timing chain spinning the cam but no fire at all not even a stutter. checked the fuel cut off and it was tripped. but i pushed it in with out having the car in the on position. just got it towed home today and started poking around but still cant see where the oil is coming from. i did however find alot of oil in the intak/throttle body.... any idea if i killed it or not?

 

This sounds awful, hope you get this all better. Just know that these cars are VERY delicate, and for future reference, if the car starts to overheat, pull over immediately. Don't drive on it, and I stress that point. Make sure you pull over asap, and have it towed home, and chances are your coolant reservoir probably went out. Which is a much cheaper alternative compared to replacing your whole engine. Best of luck to you!

 

are you able to post a picture of the oily area?

 

Sure will... have to wait till i get off work today

 

hey guys sorry its taken me so long to get back.. 12 hour shifts leave me very little time for anything.

so heres where im at. ive been poking around quite a bit but i still dont have this figured out. heres the things ive checked

1. throttle butterfly is working
2. fuel rail has pressure
3. spark plugs are firing (spark is dull yellow not white/blue)
4. exhaust is pushing when turned over
5. pistons are moving and pushing air (i haven't compression tested it yet)

i bought a code reader and this is what i got

p0102
p0112
p0118
p0193---this code will not erase
p1108
p1603
p1000---this code wont erase but from what i read it wont go away till after a couple drive cycles.

also got a fuel system 1 and 2= open
fuel press on the code reader was at 70psi however it never changed even while cranking.
i did get rpm indication on the reader.

so before i start throwing parts at this thing... which one is most likely to be causing the no start? im going to try and upload a video now. thanks for all the help.

 

and of course i cant seem to up load the video... oh well any ideas out there?

 

Moxion, what I want you to do is to locate the MAF sensor and then follow the wiring down to where it goes into a big wire bundle. Now, this bundle is going to run towards the fire wall. Hand over hand this bundle. I bet you will find where this bundle has come in contact with a pipe or something and the outside black plastic sheeting is damaged. If you look deeper into that spot, you will find that the wires underneath are damaged too. You will need to repair these wires (in a lot of cases, you can simply wrap them with some electrical tape and that will be good enough).

 

checked all wiring and nothing is burnt.. however i did find a connector unplugged at the end of the fuel rail... plugged that back in but still no start. it did clear the p0193 code though. now the only code i have left is p1603. fuel press now reads 55psi while cranking with the sensor plugged in. this is driving me crazy.. how can i have no start with almost no codes and i have air fuel spark and compression?

 

also i entered the "engineering test mode" by holding the button on the turn signal and turning the car on... according to it i have the following dtc's

9359
960d
e510
9205
e511
9318
a879
5924

i dont really junderstand how i can have dtc's if i cleared the codes with my code reader.. any help out there?

 

moxiom, check fuse F40 to make sure that it isn't blown. This is the power that feeds the TCM (which is what your P1603 code is relating to). Next, turn the key to the run position and then using a multimeter, see if you have 12 VDC on the little metal tips on the top of the fuse (they are really small, but you will see 2 silver dots on top of all the fuses, measure with the red lead on one of these silver dots, the black lead on the metal part of the car). Do you get 12 VDC? If yes, then it is looking more than likely like your TCM failed. If you do not have 12 VDC, then relay R8 has failed, fuse F30 and/or F67. You can prove F67 is good by checking to verify that your low beam headlights turn on.

HOpefully this gives you something to check and find the simple problem.

 

well i got bored and pulled the intake and valve cover... milkshake oil says things are not looking good.. so rebuild or motor swap or try and sell?

 

moxion, really that depends on what mechanical abilities you have and whether you have a second vehicle to use for a bit. If you have mechanical ability and a spare vehicle, then I say rebuild the motor and go from there. You can probably rebuild it for under $1000 and a few long weekends of tinkering. If you need the car back, then you can probably get a decent used engine for around $1500 or so and drop that in over a weekend or so. But, if you don't have any mechanical ability, you can probably find a shop that would drop in a good used engine for around $2500. Now, whether you sell the car as is or not, that is a personal decision.