Recently my engine light came on and the dealership recommended replacing the spark plugs, coils, and knock sensors for $2600 stating that might fix it. $2600 and the word "might" did not compute and I left.

It is a 2002 X-type sport model with 63,000 miles that has had minimal problems after the initial new car issues.

Reading up on how to replace these components I searched for a code reader and a stronger confirmation.

I bought the code reader and pulled the codes. None of the codes suggest what the dealership recommended. So I am either vindicated or not as smart as I think.

I ordered the Jaguar manual and need a little insight. The information on the codes in the manual are just shy of totally cryptic.

The codes are P0113 intake air temp, P0118 Engine Coolant, P0123 throttle/pedal position sensor, P0505 idle air control, P1492 DTC def not found and P0443 Evap emission system purge control value circuit.

A long list, but it seems one may have caused several to fail. Reading the posts it sounds like a new radiator cap may solve P0118 and possibly P0113. It may also need a thermostat and possibly a heat sensor to fix P0113. Going with the less expense radior cap first being cheapest was recommended snd will be followed. Can PO123, PO505 and P1492 also be associated as downstream errors related to P0113?

P0443 sounds like I may have issues with the EVAP canister by the gas tank fill and is a seperate problem. I have read the comments on checking it, just have to locate it and see if I can access it myself. Am I on track or way off base.

There was also the mention of a couple of seals or gaskets that may be leaking related to P0113, but there was not a definitive location or name for these gaskets or seals, any help here?

Last, the Speed sensor light is on and the cruise control does not work. I understand the cruise control may not work until the issues above are corrected. I replaced the front speed sensors discs and rotors. No error codes apear for the brake system speed sensors yet it comes on and the brakes work fine or the light is off and the brakes stutter. Is this somehow related to the above problems PO123 which is then associated with PO113 and P0118??

A long winded question, but I tried to provide enough insight to see the whole picture.

Thanks for any comments that shift me in a direction. As long as I am moving I am not standing still.

 

Start again, clear everything a go drive and see what returns. Then come back

 

Have had my car for five days, now, and have two codes (P0105, P1000). Looks like I'm going on eBay tonight and buying a scanner. It's like a spare tire ... you have to have one.

Grumble, grumble, grumble ...




Once I get this ironed out, I'm gonna love the car. In the mean time, it's just frustrating, that's all.

 

you only need to worry about the p0105 and I dont remeber that one off the top of my head seeing how Im at home now

 

Thanks for the feed back. I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, IMT O rings, radiator cap and the hose to the PVC (it was split). I threw in a fresh air filter for good measure.

Taking the battary out left plenty of clearance to remove the thermostat, there is no advantage to removing the air cleaner, just too many hoses underneath to even see through. Dropped the bottom hose of the thermostat after releasing the hose clamp, I plugged the hose with a rag to prevent dropping a screw down the hose (if you don't you will). I removed the three screws. Wasn't hard to replace, just a little ackward removing the last screw without racking your knuckles.

Since I disconnected the battary while working the codes where cleared as suggested. I took it for the recommended test drive. The only code showing up now is P0333 #11 with a Knock sensor 2, circuit high bank 2. It runs well, but the plugs are only listed for 60,000 miles and it is now over that. The plugs are cheap enough and so is the knock sensor, but a set of coils are $500 if you replace them all.

My thought is while the intake manifold is off go ahead and replace the coils, spark plugs, knock sensor and clean the injectors. It is a little more expense, but a lot less work then jumping from coil to coil or having to replace another one a year later. Any comments and does anyone know the life expetency of the coils? Am I going overboard and only need to replace one coil?

I am assuming this should fix the car.

For those interested, the dealership estimated $2,600 to fix the car; so far with the code reader I have spent $185 and two hours of work. Found a nice code sensor at Harbor Freight for $89 with a 20% off coupon dropping that. The same code reader cost $249 at Amazon.com.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

FYI: A little of topic, but you have been nice. If you like saving money or avoiding dangerous chemicals in processed foods, you are welcome to drop by our site http://healthylife.rmtrain.com.

 

whille coils do go out on X's, they dont go out often. I wouldnt replace unless you have an issue