Guys started to get P2635 after having rusted out break lines repaired and new master cylinder installed.

I put a new WIX fuel filter on Friday. Started the hesitations and jerking again. Starts and runs fine, until jerking start. Not missing.

Should I just order Fuel control module for 100 Canadian and replace it?
Forums indicate that is the most likely next step?

Thanks for your help
Vic

 

Chris / Dell.

I would truly value your input.

Thanks
Vic

 

Is the jerking when you near going over 3,000 r.p.m.'s and is fairly violent shaking. Sort of like if it were possible to rapidly (staccato) turn the key off and on?

 

Dell, I took it out this morning it is 7c / 45f here. Still had light on. Started and ran fine. Keep in around 2000 all good for a few miles. Then slow brought it up to 3000. Not issue. Stopped cleared code. Repeated process still all good. Drove it hard still good.

I will repeat all testing again after it warms up this afternoon going to 21c / 70f.

Perhaps it is the fuel pump after it gets warm. I only run premium.

Yes, I would say it is violent shaking. Much more then when I changed a coil pack a couple of years ago.

Thank you for your time.

 

Took car out at lunch for 15 mins and 15 miles. Drive it slow / fast in and out of sport mode. Running great. Real testing going now. Sent wife shopping with it. It is going to fail again it will be be will she is driving it. I will let you all know.

Vic

 

Wife drove it 40 miles, no issues. I drive it another 40 tonight after I cleaned out the winter mates and dusted. No issues. Hopefully it will stay running ok.
I will give an update next week regardless.

 

Car is back to throwing P2635 this spring. Fine all winter. I think fuel pump is heating up once the weather is warmer.
Not looking forward figure out which pump it is as per Dell's old post.

 

There is really only one pump. It's on the right side passenger (LHD car). The left pump works off the "bernoulli" system to equalize the gas from left and right saddle gas tank driven by the Electronic pump on the right side (which is the deeper of the 2 "wells"). The left side is just an equalization unit and Electronic indicator of gas level.

In fluid dynamics, Bernoulli's principle states that an increase in the speed of a fluid occurs simultaneously with a decrease in pressure or a decrease in the fluid's potential energy. The principle is named after Daniel Bernoulli, a swiss mathemetician, who published it in 1738 in his book Hydrodynamics.

 

Very interesting. I was referring to your comment:

"...Jaguar has 2 different production run assemblies for the tank and pumps. It is NOT dependent on year, nor vin numbers or ranges. One run uses the "pigtail" hookup on top of the pump, the other use the 6 pin (molded into the top of pump) type electrical hookup. They cannot tell which any particular car has until they drop the tank and physically look at the pump."

I am on not happy about not have correct assembly on hand before getting the work done.

As always thank you help and sharing your experience.

 

I changed the fuel pump on mine last October, as far I'm aware there is only one pump motor for all of the 2.5/3.0 petrol X-Types, the 2 litre petrol is a different assembly. I changed just the pump motor itself and not the whole assembly. Follow the guides on here and go in from under the rear seat. I didn't disconnect any of the pipes on the assembly itself, I just lifted whole the assembly out onto undid a few screws (3, I think) to split the assembly in half and then replace the motor inside. The pump I bought (UK) is in the link below but the electrical connector didn't fit, so had to rewire the old connector on and also the fuel strainer was different so used the original after cleaning it. It was a lot easier than I expected.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124619699106

 

I see your point now. Yes the electrical hook up to the pump is/can be one of two. It seems more members are now just replacing the actual "pump" module now instead of the entire assembly. My long thread "my kitty died today" has a comment from a member with the part he ordered and used to do this. Bearing in mind we are U.S. based.
It also has pics and measurements of where to go in from the top under the seat if that's the choice you make as I did.

 

Thanks, Dell / Topanga.
I will just replace the actual pump if it comes to that. I am truthfully afraid to cut the whole myself. I have read all the post on it. Seems very doable.
I put a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner in it two days ago and running fine again. I don't know if it just the freeze / thaw cycle that is doing it combined with hardly driving.
I only use premium not regular gas.

Thanks again. I will keep you posted.
I always love reading all great advice here in the forums.

 

About a month ago I replace the fuel control module under the back seat. It was only 140 dollars and do able to me. I was afear to cut a whole in the floor to replace the fuel pump. I am glad it did.
It fixed the problem. Car has never corned so well. No hesitation, smooth ride through all gears.

I will include a couple of pictures, finding and removing he fuel control module was a little trickier than I thought it would be. No hard but a look longer to fine then expect.


New Module



It is tucked in metal brace in the red circle. It is mounted to a bracket which is what you remove. Then you simply switch out the old module for the new.

Alas, I will start a new thread for new issue.