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im replacing the rear driver side hub and bearing but the old one wont come off the halfshaft.
i rented a hub puller and a slide hammer.
the bolt in the center of the puller is just drilling its way into the halfshaft.
i had been using lots of pb blaster.....after trying with the puller i decided to try the slide hammer, but i think i was supposed to leave the hub bolts mostly in because after a couple of slides the hub came out of the carrier but with the halfshaft still attached.
how would you proceed from here?
From what I can view of the picture it looks like you have NOT removed the bearing outer circlip. Get some snap ring pliers and pull that and it should come free.
Theres no clip it drives straight off but i never use those pullers they dont work. I spray the splines with penatrant and use a good air hammer with a punch attachment and in the center of the shaft will drive it straight out every time. replaced the nut when going back together
should i reattach the hub bolts and try a sledgehammer on the halfshaft with the hub puller loosly attached but with the center bolt turned tight against the halfshaft then sledgehammer the end of the pullers bolt?
this is the only heat i have...think it will help?
You're going to have a hell of a job using a puller on the hub / drive shaft. Instead re-bolt the hub to the car and refit the hub nut so that it sits just flush with the end of the drive shaft ( to help protect the thread) .. if you haven't got access to a air hammer you'll need a large copper mallet (3lb or bigger) to hit the end of the drive shaft with ...I've just done a drive shaft it did take quite a shock to free it ... Once you break the rust in the splines it'll start moving easier you can then unbolt the hub from the car and if necessary use the puller to remove the hub .
when you reassemble it make sure you clean the splines on the shaft and use copper grease on the splines both male and female.
by putting the nut on the end of the shaft and using that to take the force to save the threads, wouldnt those three raised pieces on the nut just crack off?
i was using a 3lb mallet, i also have a 7lb
i tried using the puller as a "pusher" against the shaft, using the center bolt on the puller, tight up against the shaft then pounded the puller bolt with the 3lb mallet...that did nothing!
The three raised piece's need to be just flush with the end of the driveshaft ... I do feel for you dude my drive shaft took one hell of a hit to break the splines loose from the hub ...just make sure when it starts moving not to punch it back too far and damage the drive shaft CV joint.
Also you should use a new hub nut when refitting .
The three raised piece's need to be just flush with the end of the driveshaft ... I do feel for you dude my drive shaft took one hell of a hit to break the splines loose from the hub ...just make sure when it starts moving not to punch it back too far and damage the drive shaft CV joint.
Also you should use a new hub nut when refitting .
yeah this is def stressing me out!
i watched watched mine being done a few years back on a different x by a friend and he really struggled.. did you have to hit it many times before it moved?
in my pic u can see the allen keys behind the bearing just to give the shaft more "travel".
i do have the new nut :@)
I always kinda like to build up the force but this time mine took 3 REALLY hard knocks to free up ... then some still quite heavy hammering to keep it moving. Keep in mind I'm a 6'4" fat ******* with the wrong end of 22st to put behind the swing ... But it did free up just hit it bloody hard ... To add to an earlier comment my CP air hammer wouldn't budge my driveshaft this time I had to resort to my inner Thor.
Thor....
IT IS OFF!
it took the mighty power of my 76 yr old farmer neighbor!
he did it different to what i thought could work.
4 hub bolts left loose.
puller fully attached to hub with nuts on tight.
puller center bolt tight against end of shaft.
several hard hits with the 7lb hammer on the end if the puller center bolt ( i had only used the 3lb)
as it slowly came loose i would tightten the center bolt and he continued to hit it, by the end i was able to turn the center bolt with a wrench until it popped off.
that form of "impact" hammering is new to me and a great lesson
If remember correctly it's 200 foot pounds ...so very tight . I had to use my big 3/4" torque wrench.
I have just checked on the SKF spec sheets for the Xtype jags and front and rear hub nuts are both 200ft-lbs (270Nm) .... Yay my memory wasn't knackered.
if you ever need to know the hub nut torque for a car look here. hub nut torque pdf
Last edited by greenestate; Sep 20, 2018 at 02:46 PM.
I thought it was just me that everytime I work on my cat it hisses and scratches me. Btw, the 2 hour top hose assembly we both just did took me 5, smfh.
ya dell... mine hisses every time i get my wallet out!
i can believe it took 5 hrs, thats a beatch of a job.
SO....TEST DRIVE....AGHH....felt just the same....so got it home, jacked it up.....checked other rear wheel bearing.....TOAST!
i now have it stripped down and will be attempting the second hub removal shortly.