Oil Pan Gasket Leak - $920 dealership price
Cracked Coolant Reservoir - $345
Grease Leaking at Drive shaft Flange - $215
Negative Battery Cable Corroded - $240
Both IMT Seal Leaking - $220

Is there anything I can do by myself? Or is this something I should have a mechanic or dealership look at? Please post any DIY Links, would be helpful.
Thinking of doing the Coolant Reservoir and Battery Cable for sure. Those are usually pretty easy, but I could be wrong.

Thanks,
B

 

The IMT's are pretty easy, I think that's in the FAQ's.
Generally oil pan gaskets are a pretty simple job but for whatever reason there seems to be some heartache over doing them on these cars - not sure why. I'm sure a quick search will show you whatever you need to know. Good luck!

 

Bruserker, everything but the oil pan gasket would be my recommendation. IMT seals will take you maybe 20 minutes to do (just need to stretch the o-ring over the lower valve vice pulling the valve all the way out). The coolant reservior can be picked up for around $100 as I recall and replacing it takes very little time. Same with the battery cable. A few bolts and it is all take care of.

As for the greasing a leaking drive shaft flange, please fix it correctly and install a new output shaft seal. The seal is fairly cheap and installing it isn't that bad. It does require moving the driveshaft out of the way, but as you will see, getting it out of the way isn't that hard.

The oil pan gasket, well, that is a lot of labor and I would also ask them how they plan on accessing the bolt that is under the transfer case. Some places remove the transfer case, others will drill a hole in the transfer case bracket and access it that way. Just something to consider.

 

the oil pan is a littlle tricky ive heard of 2 ways to go about it but both are complex and require alot of time and removal of other parts but a gasket is only about $30

 

it's always fun to try new things on your car and there is no better way to learn, but going to the dealer will save you in the headache department. Let us know how everything goes!

 

You can also just seal the Coolant Reservoir where it's cracked with some JB Weld.

Remove it, clean it, and mix some JB Weld to close the crack. Wait 24 hours for it to cure well before putting it back on the car.

 

How bad is your oil pan leaking? Unless it's getting rather bad I wouldn't even bother. If your tranny or transfer case craps out, get it done at that time. It's not a DIY unless you know what you are doing and have tools and plenty of time.

All the others like Thermo said are pretty straightforward. Review the X type FAQ's and do some searching on the board.

 

i would not recommend doing the oil pan gasket. you do not have to drill a hole nor do you have to remove the transfer case but it is a very difficult job for anyone who does not have a lift. your transfer case grease leak is probably from the companion flange nut. remove the nut clean the flange install rtv on the nut reinstall nut. torque the nut to 160nm according to tsb 308-01. hope this helped.

 

So far, I replace the coolant reservoir with a $100 part. I replace the battery cable with a dealership part for $135. Should I download the JTIS to continue with the other repairs? I am not planning to get the oil gasket replace and will find a mechanic to do the job. I do plan on doing the the repairs, if I can get a reasonable source and guide line for the procedures.

Thanks,
B

 

Btw, I used Prestone Extending Coolant. It is the green stuff. Am I suppose to use the Jaguar Oil stuff instead? Should I flush out the green stuff and just buy the dealership coolant or is there something else I can get?

Thanks,
B

 

My oil pan gasket doesn't seem to be leaking too much. The dealership put a note that said leaking greatly. I see like maybe 2 nickle size drops everyday on the garage floor. Is that a lot? Or could I ignore it for now?

 

I would take a look at that negative battery cable before I spent $135 on buying a replacement. It's hard to imagine that it is so corroded that it can't be cleaned-up and re-used. If you remove it from the car completely, wire brush all the corrosion off, and then either use baking soda and water or a battery corrosion remover off the shelf, it'll probably be as good as new. Re-install it then using a corrosion inhibitor that you buy at a parts store.

The JTIS download has been a problem for many people to get without errors.

The IMT O-Rings are only $11 from the dealership and you can do that in about 15 minutes. We can guide you on how it's done.

As long as you check your oil and keep it topped-up, you could run that engine for years without any problem while it leaks a couple drops.

 

I'm going to pick up some IMT-O Rings this weekend. Should I just follow the guide I found on the Type-S Jags. Hoping it will work out the same way?

IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Or do you have another guide I can follow? It is too late on the old negative cable. Brought and installed. My car ran fine, before the negative cable change. If anyone would like to buy my old cable and coolant reservoir, feel free and PM. I'll post some picture up, hopefully some drip pictures to show where the reservoir is leaking.

I'm planning to do a flush on the antifreeze with some Zerex Dex-Cool. I did mixed the old jag Dex-Cool with the Prestone Extending mix all 50/50. I feel uneasy doing that, and will be doing a full flush with the Zerex.

 

Oh my. No, don't follow the S-Type procedure for your IMT o-rings. The X-Type is a completely different set up. Standing on the passenger side of the vehicle, you will see both the circular BLACK IMTs facing you. No need to remove anything but the electrical connections and the nuts on the the plastic housings. The upper one will pull right off. The lower you just need to pull off far enough to cut the old o-ring and remove it. On the bottom, simplly carefull stretch the new o-ring over the housing. Bolt them back up, reconnect and you are done. Search the X-type section I'm sure there is a sticky with pictures and everything.

 

If you're not against using an indie shop, get an estimate at one for the oil pan gasket. My Jag dealer quoted $1250, so I went back to the place I purchased mine used from and they did it for a third of the price (it did take 2.5 days to have ready). Worth a try.

 

Dunno what age your car is and what kind of shape is she in generally....excellent, fair, average etc etc?

The reason I ask is that seeker made a really good point......depending on what level your car is at you could leave that tiny leak, keep an eye on it and top up as required once in a while.
If I had it on my A6 ( 4 years old and in as new condition ) I'd probably do it straight away, on my sons Clios (10 years old - good condition ) I'd probably leave it if it were that expensive tbh....
With all due respect you don't sound like the keenest of Auto DIY'ers and so could end up paying a small fortune.
You're the owner, up to you at the end of the day

Good luck with the rest of it and please let us know what you decide to do....

 

The car is a 2004 Jaguar X-Type. It has 40k miles on it, I know..... I need to drive more. The car is in great conditions, and has been well maintained with a routine visit every six month to the dealership. The leakage isn't big, but I was going to replace it on the safe side. I will do some searches for the O-Rings to find some pictures. If anyone has a good image or link please post. I will take picture of my repairs with old and new part being replaced. Hopefully it will be helpful to someone else in the future.

Thanks- B

 

Numbers 1 & 2 in the diagram below are the Intake Manifold Tuning Valves where you replace the IMT O-Rings. You just disconnect the electrical connection, undo the 9mm bolts and withdraw them straight out from the manifold. Then you remove the old O-Ring and slip the new one in it's place.

They are extremely easy to reach and everything is quite visible (unlike the tutorial on replacing them you read before).

 

I think that it is great that you are doing things yourself!
This will give you a better understanding of your car.With the money saved, you can invest in tools needed to be able to do the next repair.

Also if the car is not needed as a daily driver,you can also afford to have more down time while doing the repairs yourself and learning.
As said,keep a eye on your oil level and as long as you keep it full/safe,you can leak a pancake size or more a day.On long trips you would check it more often.You are only talking a small annoying leak.Some folks would make you park it in the street rather then the driveway,lol. Get some engine gunk and spray it on the bottom side of the engine and wash it off to see if you can locate the leak.May have to drive a few days to have it show up.

Sometimes you can just clean the spot and rub some gasket sealer over it and it be fixed,without having to disturb the complete oil pan gasket.

Just remember we all have a learning point.Even the best mechanic had to start at the same point you are now.If you ever feel as if you got over your head.Do as you are now and ask for help.

You could also have the car towed to a auto shop for repairs.If you do half the work and want them to finish,it would save you some money.

I like to keep my hard earned money in my pocket myself.And to many tricks to the trade to pay someone to work on a car that you do not understand.That is like a open check book for them.I will get shot down in flames for saying that,but congrats to you!!
Keep up the good work.

Also Ebay is a great place to find original parts for far less then the dealership wants.

 

These are the prices the dealership wanted to charge me.

Oil Pan Gasket Leak - $920 dealership price
Cracked Coolant Reservoir - $345
Grease Leaking at Drive shaft Flange - $215
Negative Battery Cable Corroded - $240
Both IMT Seal Leaking - $220

= $1940

All the work I done, the outcome:

Oil Pan Gasket Leak - Tighten couple of loose screws on the pan - Fixed. Cost $0. It has been two weeks, no leaks. (estimated time spent: 5 minutes)

Cracked Coolant Reservoir (Top left tip was cracked, heard you can gorilla glue is back) - ordered a new OEM one online for around $120. Fixed - no more leaks. (estimated time spent: 15 minutes)

Grease Leaking at Drive shaft Flange - No idea what that means, never fix it.

Negative Battery Cable - Replaced with OEM Cable from dealership - $115. Felt no difference in the car, just a new shinny wire. (estimated time spent: 15 minutes)

Both IMT Seal Leaking (Original was these yellow flat O Rings) - Replace with the green IMT O-Ring - $10 dollar each = $20 fixed. (estimated time spent: 5 minutes)

Oh, I also found a cracked on my PCV Hose. During my repair, I was feeling a lack of power in the engine. I heard a whistling noise coming from my engine during my repair and notice about a 1 1/2 inch crack in my PCV Hose.

PCV Hose Cracked - Replaced hose with new threaded PCV hose from the dealership- $15 (estimated time spent: 10 minutes)

= $270 total cost for parts. Total estimated time: 50 minutes.