seafoam induction cleaning?
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From: ga
seafoam induction cleaning?
On my old landrover there was a nipple on the intake which allowed you to connect a hose, then you would put the other end of that hose into a can of seafoam, the vacuum would suck up the seafoam, then you leave it to sit for 10 mins then drive the car....clouds of white smoke would blind vehicles behind you, but after about 30 seconds the smoke cleared and the car would drive like a new car....is there a way to do an induction cleaning like this on the X, other than spending $125 at a dealer which has the B&G induction cleaning machine?
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From: Great Mills, MD
iownme, what I would tell you to do is to remove the vacuum line off of the top of the intake. Then you can get a rubber hose that will fit into that opening and then you can stick the other end of the hose into the can of seafoam to do the cleaning. As for 30 seconds of smoke, with the X-TYpes, you are going to get more like about 5 minutes of smoke out of the car. Atleast that is my experience with doing this. Others will tell you that doing this provides no gains to the car. I will leave this to you.
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From: ga
for $8 i'll give it a shot....it made a night and day difference to the land rover, and most of the forum users did it on a regular basis, with the same results as me. My only regret was not trying it when i first got the car. My guess is it does not make such a difference in cars which run premium gas as they tend to have less carbon buildup....I should have my plates by tuesday/wednesday and will finally be able to drive the X...this wait is agonizing..hehe.
Thanks Thermo
Thanks Thermo
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From: Perth Ontario Canada
Seafoam or similar is a waste of money on a car in good condition. If it actually 'does something' in terms of performance, there's a serious underlying problem that needs to be fixed.
Modern engines do not accumulate gum and deposits like WWII era 2 stroke outboards did. That's what Seafoam was developed for. Save your money and stay away from the snake oil aisle at the store.
Modern engines do not accumulate gum and deposits like WWII era 2 stroke outboards did. That's what Seafoam was developed for. Save your money and stay away from the snake oil aisle at the store.
Seafoam
I've had it solve too many simple injector problems on everything from Mercedes (5), Porsche (2) and Audi (4) to say it is worthless. It is worth the $7 I pay. I was just asking about the XK and anyones experience. I suppose your saying that if you get a check engine light on this over engineeered and under built beauty just rush into your local Jag dealer and pay his mortgage for the month.
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Perth Ontario Canada
I think I'd wonder what I was doing wrong in life to have so many injector problems. Pouring it in an intake tract won't clean dirty injectors anyway.
BTW- if you're plagued by CEL problems on top of injector problems, buy a code reader. They're only a few bucks on ebay. That way you'll see what's wrong with the car instead of hoping for miracles.
BTW- if you're plagued by CEL problems on top of injector problems, buy a code reader. They're only a few bucks on ebay. That way you'll see what's wrong with the car instead of hoping for miracles.
Trending Topics
Seafoam
The use of Seafoam spray for intake cleaning is a recent thing. I have always used it by adding it to the gas. I didn't mean to indicate each car had injection problems. Two of the Mercedes, one Porsche and two Audi's, as well as a Maxima. Nissans had injector problems in the 90's. I live in the midwest where ethanol use is mandated. Where else are you going to find a possible fix for $7. My question remains, has anyone got experience cleanig the intake system and MAFS. Would Seafoam hurt the MAFS? What about the effect of the Supercharger?
Last edited by Excalibur2012; Jun 8, 2013 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Additional thoughts!
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Perth Ontario Canada
It's been done since the '40s. Nothing new.
If you think it's a 'miracle' at only $7, make it yourself for about a buck. It's 50% light oil, 30% naptha and 20% rubbing alcohol.
If you think it's a 'miracle' at only $7, make it yourself for about a buck. It's 50% light oil, 30% naptha and 20% rubbing alcohol.
Restricted Performance as Related to Knock Sensor
Have seen reports recently of this problem being intermittant and related to faulty knock sensor which gets back to a question I had on fuel quality related to Octane. Some state do not test at all (PA) some say they do and don't (OH). My current state of WI has had reports of Octane Fraud. Here is the deal My wifes ES300 gets intermittant CE light. She says she uses midgrade. Which can vary from 88-91 Premium can vary from 91 to 95 at some stations and some have ethanol in upper grades (Citgo) , others don't . How much of a change in Octane does it take for a Jag's ECM to begin suppressing knock and could that cause a "Restricted Performace" scenario?
Last edited by Excalibur2012; Jun 10, 2013 at 10:08 AM. Reason: spelling
Restricted Performance
I value everyones input, especially if they lay hands as I have for many years. Many on here can't afford to buy new and some just hand the car over to a dealership each time something is amiss. Not sure most of us can afford that, or is it needed. DIY is the only way I have been able to own some really great marques in my life. I'm sure many here feel the same. Forums like this are invaluable. Thanks Mikey!
Last edited by Excalibur2012; Jun 10, 2013 at 10:11 AM. Reason: clarification
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From: Duanesburg, NY
Excal,
I'm with you! I've learned so much about my cars from people who have actually experimented with good and bad results. This forum has saved me countless hours and countless dollars in repairs. I use Seafoam regularly on all of my vehicles. From Jags, Land Rover, Chevy's and Fords. It works for me as far as an excellent maintenance product and internal cleaner. It is not parts in a bottle. Has anyone ever used Seafoam in a sluggish power steering system?
I'm with you! I've learned so much about my cars from people who have actually experimented with good and bad results. This forum has saved me countless hours and countless dollars in repairs. I use Seafoam regularly on all of my vehicles. From Jags, Land Rover, Chevy's and Fords. It works for me as far as an excellent maintenance product and internal cleaner. It is not parts in a bottle. Has anyone ever used Seafoam in a sluggish power steering system?
Excal,
I'm with you! I've learned so much about my cars from people who have actually experimented with good and bad results. This forum has saved me countless hours and countless dollars in repairs. I use Seafoam regularly on all of my vehicles. From Jags, Land Rover, Chevy's and Fords. It works for me as far as an excellent maintenance product and internal cleaner. It is not parts in a bottle. Has anyone ever used Seafoam in a sluggish power steering system?
I'm with you! I've learned so much about my cars from people who have actually experimented with good and bad results. This forum has saved me countless hours and countless dollars in repairs. I use Seafoam regularly on all of my vehicles. From Jags, Land Rover, Chevy's and Fords. It works for me as far as an excellent maintenance product and internal cleaner. It is not parts in a bottle. Has anyone ever used Seafoam in a sluggish power steering system?
Also, what do you guys think is better, the fuel additive or the spray? Or do they both pretty much give the same results?
Use of Trans Tune type products.
There is a difference between cleaning and what Trans Tune does. Transmission and Power Steering products seem to work by swelling seals which they do effectively. A technician will know immediately upon teardown if you have attempted to fix these components with an additive.
From the manufacturer's site, regarding Trans Tune:
That being said, I'm still wondering if anyone has a preference when it comes to the spray vs. the fuel additive for cleaning
Q: Sea Foam TransTune emphasizes that it doesn't swell transmission seals or act as a stop leak. Why is this so important?
A: Use of a stop leak additive, while a convenient short-term fix for a leaky transmission, can end up doubling or tripling the transmission repair costs you eventually will have to face. As the stop leak additive is absorbed into the seals and o-rings within your transmission, it causes them to soften and expand, and this is what temporarily stops the leaks. However, the stop leak additive fundamentally alters the consistency and density of those seals and o-rings, changing them from a firm dense rubbery material into something resembling the consistency of a marshmallow. This changes the torque tolerances between metal components and allows for more movement and vibration between these parts. Eventually, mechanical vibration shreds the now-softened seals, causing a catastrophic failure of the seals. So, what started out as a simple issue involving a single leaking seal, now affects EVERY seal and o-ring in your entire transmission, requiring a total tear-down of the entire transmission and replacement of every rubber and plastic component in the transmission.
TransTune has absolutely no effect on the composition of transmission seals or o-rings! TransTune simply acts to dissolve varnish build-up in valve bodies, pumps, electric solenoids and passageways, enabling your transmission to function as it was designed by the manufacturer. TransTune also controls harmful moisture that can cause corrosion and affect performance.
A: Use of a stop leak additive, while a convenient short-term fix for a leaky transmission, can end up doubling or tripling the transmission repair costs you eventually will have to face. As the stop leak additive is absorbed into the seals and o-rings within your transmission, it causes them to soften and expand, and this is what temporarily stops the leaks. However, the stop leak additive fundamentally alters the consistency and density of those seals and o-rings, changing them from a firm dense rubbery material into something resembling the consistency of a marshmallow. This changes the torque tolerances between metal components and allows for more movement and vibration between these parts. Eventually, mechanical vibration shreds the now-softened seals, causing a catastrophic failure of the seals. So, what started out as a simple issue involving a single leaking seal, now affects EVERY seal and o-ring in your entire transmission, requiring a total tear-down of the entire transmission and replacement of every rubber and plastic component in the transmission.
TransTune has absolutely no effect on the composition of transmission seals or o-rings! TransTune simply acts to dissolve varnish build-up in valve bodies, pumps, electric solenoids and passageways, enabling your transmission to function as it was designed by the manufacturer. TransTune also controls harmful moisture that can cause corrosion and affect performance.
Last edited by emaraszek; Aug 21, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
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From: Great Mills, MD
Evan, I think the question that you have to answer is where the gum is located. If the gum is on say a valve or the intake internals, then the spray would be the way to go as the fuel additive is not going to do much for you unless you suck it into the intake way up stream (ie, near the throttlebody for example). If your fuel injectors are getting clogged (resulting in less than effective atomization of the fuel), then you can spray to your hearts content and it is not going to fix the issue. You would have to pass something through the fuel injector to loosen the gum deposit and then flush it out the tiny holes at the end of the fuel injector.
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From: Duanesburg, NY
I treated my 2001 land Rover with Seafoam last week. I did everything by the book. The treated fuel did clean out the system however, the gas mileage was horrendous with the product in the tank. I calculated that I got 11.2 MPG on the treated fuel. I ran that tank nearly dry and then refilled the tank with regular untreated fuel. My mileage increased to 18.1 MPG. in the past (when I tracked it) I had averaged in the 15-16.5 MPG range for years. It's running better and the fuel mileage has improved significantly. I can't complain about Seafoam at all. I have used it regularly on all of my vehicles but never took the time to precisely track the resulting MPG.
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From: Perth Ontario Canada
Given the chemical makeup of Seafoam, (naphtha, rubbing alcohol and light petroleum oil) I'm not surprised. On the other hand there's nothing there that will do very much for engine cleaning either.