Good morning Mark!

It has a point that reaching it cannot return, it stucks...
i will let you know, since tommorow i will hack the old (not the new-old) MAP and check things out...

 

Hi Chris, goodmorning!

What ever i have done, load with not much load, with a lot of load, many variations, there is no bad electrical response. She just re-adjusts the idle, just a little bit, and she continues to work smooth.
As about the bent cable to the fuse box, it must have been touched by someone, i dont that someone with minor technical knowledge (i couldnt even think that manufacturer would have done something like this) would have place or even better, leave this cable like this. I just checked the cable - visually - if there is some kind of different sence of touch, nothing. I just readjusted it from bent to a light curve.
I already have "installed" another negative cable from battery to chasis, since yesterday praxis.
For now, there is no issue, as i see. No temperature in the terminals or the cables. I even tried to recharge the battery and there was no need to, the electonic charger indicated it as fully charged. Meaning the alternator sends what is necessary and the network carries all the loads where it should.
As a conclusion till now, i see no more electrical issues, something i did was effective, the un'bending, the new negative cable, the spray contact, all of these together, who knows...
As i told Mark, today i will hack the old - not the new/old, i am waiting for the new/new - MAP to see what's inside and what the situation is.
Soon more news!!

Thank you very much Chris, see you in a while!!!

 

Hi Dimos,
Just clarifying your post #21, you mentioned MAP in your post (possibly an error in your reference). MAP is a non moving part just a stationery airflow sensor you first indicated with the plug off in your other thread.
If you have actually found that your TPS sensor (attaches to the side of your throttle body assembly) is internally jamming when you manually operate it, finding it sometimes fails to return back to stop position, then that will definitely cause problems and freak out ECM and send bad commands to transmission. I have been there, and suffered that problem!

I used a Dremmel with the very fine spherical engraving bit to channel 3/4 the way around the TPS plastic backing plate perimeter, so I could relieve the tension causing the binding the my TPS's input shaft. I then was able to epoxy the backing plate seam that I had cut to seal it again in the functional new position.

 

Yes Mark, you are right. I ment TPS, 21st and 22nd post sorry for this... i have lost my sleep and my mind with all this...

So, a few minutes ago i opened the old TPS and there were 2 issues: the spring returning the cylinder to its place was misplaced, one of its 2 pins was not in the hole, and the one of the two metal sheets slidining in the resistor's slide was broken. That was the old TSP

The new/used TPS was not hacked! i sprayed just a drop of WD40 and rotated it with my finger, just to move it move it!
But before placing it back, i thought of something i was probably doing wrong:
Incide the cilinder of the TPS there are 2 teeth, meating the butterfly blade that turns em and regulating the voltage to ECM. These teeth can be placed in two ways:
- the one way is the wrong way, because the butterfly blade cannot rotate em and
- the other, proper way, is where butterfly blade seats under the one teeth and on the top of the other, in a way that moves the cilinder forward and backward. I placed it this way...
I erased the codes and started the engine.
I drove my old lady for a round and for now, no P0122 appeared when we stopped and checked. But the GEARBOX FAULT message is there...
I recall that a few months ago appeared again for a while and disappeared just like this.
Is it possible to remain as a result of the hard reset i conducted?

Your opinion please Mark...!!!

 

Chris good morning!

Please check my latest post and throw some light over my ignorance

 

Dimos, let me look at my reources so I can get an idea of what throws the code you are seeing and see if there is something that we are missing. The one check that I can't say that I have heard was getting a load test done on the battery. We have seen where if the battery starts to get old, it allows some of the ripple voltage that the alternator generates to make it to the computer which will cause it to throw random codes.

 

Hi Dimos,

I was able to clear gearbox error with battery disconnect for around 30 minutes, but some codes require you to clear with suitable OBD11 reader.
Also some codes will be removed after 5 driving cycles, once the ECM is satisfied that there have been no further occurrences of that error.

Thermo (Chris) can probably confirm for us whether the gearbox error light you now have will self clear, or if it needs forced removal with OBD11 tool.
Your thoughts Chris?

 

Dimos, because of all the stuff you have had going on, I would do a hard reboot of the car (ie, disconnect the battery, wait 5+ minutes, then reconnect the battery). see what you have then. This will reset everything and potentially clear up some confusion that the car has seen and attempted to overcome with your issues. But, if you are still getting a gear box fault light, then you should also be getting one or more codes that should be able to be read via the OBD port. The gearbox error light can be caused by many things and without having atleast a little something to go off of, it is hard to say what is going on.

If you are not getting any codes, then atleast take the car out for a drive and tell us what you are experiencing (lack of power, hard shifts in every gear, only a hard shift on the 3rd time the car shifts, abnormal noises, etc). Right now it is appearing to be a comms issue and the reboot should fix that. Then we need to see what else we are dealing with.

 

Hi Mark!!

OBDII indicates only P0122 and it is right... please read below, i am gonna anwer to Chris and explain what i did and what i descovered

 

Hi Chris, this is me from the other side of the world!

Things didnt go as i expected with the new/used TPS, it is also a crap, like my mine, the old one i hacked.

BUT i figured out something by hacking the old TPS:
I shortwired the two lines inside it, those who are sliding over 'em the two pins of the cilynder of the sensor as the butterfly rotate it. I put it in place, put the key in the ignition and no GEARBOX FAULT appeared. So, deffinetly this bad TPS is associated with bad gearbox message... of course, i didn't start my lady.
The only code i know is real for now is the P1647, this thing needs to be replaced, i know it.
So, i will wait for the new/new TPS, place it where it belongs and pray toThe Mighty
When i will start the engine, i will let you know.
Thank you very much for spending your time around my situation, @h2o2steam as also for all of his support!!!

 

Dimos, do not worry about it. that is why we do this. I find it a challenge to try and figure this stuff out. call me a glutton for punishment. But, I have fun doing it. Get that new TPS sensor and then lets see what you have at that point and we can do what is necessary then.

 

Hi Chris, goodmorng Mark @h2o2steam , greetings from Cyprus!

Today i received the new TPS and after 2 minutes was plugged in place. I think my lady is back...
No gearbox fault light, no rough gear change, easy transition from gear to gear. For now things are good.
Do you think a hard reset will be a good thing to do now? or since everything seems ok i should leave it for now?

 

Dimos, I would day yes. Let the car learn the new TPS unit. Should make things as good as they are going to be.

 

Ok Chris, first thing in the morning: ignition to on position, detache the negative from battery, brigde it with positive, leave it for half an hour, re-attach the negative terminal, leave it for 10 minutes with ignition on and start the engine. Is it right?

 

Dimos, I would not short the two posts together. Anything that stores energy in the car is going to have it burnt up due to the computers pulling power. I would also leave the key in the OFF position. Lets not shock any more components than are necessary. The computers are going to kill any stored energy in a matter of seconds. Most people recommend the 5 minutes just to make sure that it is DEAD. Then you reconnect the battery cable and start the car.

 

Ok Chris, clear.
I will do it today and get back with new update

Thanks!!

 

Good evening Chris!

There is something else going on now (pffff....):
After TPS replacement and hard reset (as you pointed out above) i heard a sound, after stepping the pedal, like air is blown when i leave the pedal. Sounds like air leak...
I can locate it somewhere in the manifold area; and it sounds massive as a leak...
Other symptoms are that even if the idle is perfect, the engine starts perfectly -cold and warm start- when i step the pedal to drive, its getting confused, refuses to accelerate and after a while it looses power. No OBD codes except the known P1647.
Sound like manifold gaskets to you?

Thanks in advance...

 

One more question:

Could this be an exhaust leak, in the flexible part, near the manifold?
Could this cause my symptoms? i forgot to mention that i smell gas fumes form time to time...

 

Hi Dimos,
You have a lot of different symptoms in your description, I think we need to break them apart one at a time to understand them.

Firstly the gas fumes you occasionally smell.....are they exhaust fumes you are smelling or un-burnt fuel smell like smelling a gas can?
If you smell unburnt fuel, then you might have a vacuum pipe leak or solenoid failure in the Evap line located on the firewall lower left of brake servo.

If the car is starting and idling Ok, if you are still in park or neutral and try to raise the throttle (by pedal or hand) does the engine respond normally. If not I suspect the car is not reading the TPS properly or at all.

If it is raising RPM Ok, but on throttle release you are getting a heavy vacuum sucking sound when the throttle butterfly is closed and manifold vacuum is high, then you must have a vacuum leak somewhere.
Yes manifold gaskets (upper and lower) can be problematic, but if you haven't taken the manifold off throughout your whole diagnostic pursuit so far, then they have not be disturbed and not likely the area we should be looking at the moment.

Our 2.1 throttle body assemblies have a idle bypass solenoid that activates to bypass air around the butterfly under certain engine circumstances. You would have noticed that you have two loom plugs going to your throttle body....one TPS the other Idle bypass solenoid.
Check that you haven't left that unplugged etc. with your throttle body manipulations or that you don't have a solenoid gasket leak if you have removed that solenoid previously.
There is also a hose that goes from PCV valve to manifold that can get a split underneath....check that.
Check vacuum lines and T joiners from manifold to brake servo and ancillary vacuum pump fitted on our 2.1 variant for any splits, fractures. The nylon pipe joiners get brittle and can break if you happen to inadvertently put some force onto the hard vacuum lines.

Quite a bit to check, but not all of your symptoms seem to line up with one common cause.

 

Hi Mark, thank for replying!!! So:

"...the gas fumes you occasionally smell.." they are exhaust fumes

"If the car is starting and idling Ok, if you are still in park or neutral and try to raise the throttle (by pedal or hand) does the engine respond normally" no, the TPS is brand new and the car responds and raises when stepping the pedal

"If it is raising RPM Ok, but on throttle release you are getting a heavy vacuum sucking sound when the throttle butterfly is closed and manifold vacuum is high, then you must have a vacuum leak somewhere." THATS IT, a heavy vacuum sound coming somewere form the manifold intake - at least i guess comes from some place around there. Is it possible this fumes i smell to be provocated by a massive exhaust leak that leads to this loss of power,? Because otherwise, the car works perfectly...

"Yes manifold gaskets (upper and lower) can be problematic, but if you haven't taken the manifold off throughout your whole diagnostic pursuit so far, then they have not be disturbed and not likely the area we should be looking at the moment." No, its not taken out

"Our 2.1 throttle body assemblies have a idle bypass solenoid that activates to bypass air around the butterfly under certain engine circumstances. You would have noticed that you have two loom plugs going to your throttle body....one TPS the other Idle bypass solenoid.
Check that you haven't left that unplugged etc. with your throttle body manipulations or that you don't have a solenoid gasket leak if you have removed that solenoid previously." as far as i can see, everything is plugged in place, no solenoids hanging around
There is also a hose that goes from PCV valve to manifold that can get a split underneath....check that.
"Check vacuum lines and T joiners from manifold to brake servo and ancillary vacuum pump fitted on our 2.1 variant for any splits, fractures. The nylon pipe joiners get brittle and can break if you happen to inadvertently put some force onto the hard vacuum lines." sprayed many times, no reaction to that actions and i may say that i am handling things gently, X is a lady after all...!

"Quite a bit to check, but not all of your symptoms seem to line up with one common cause. " God.....