shaneywayney
Veteran member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
Likes: 4,101
From: Great Mills, MD
Shaney, welcome to the forums. I think you will find a lot of people here that are willing to help you out.
As for your problem, when you say that it won't start, what do you mean by this? The motor will crank, but not fire, the motor will not crank, .....? this will change where the problem can be.
Sit back, grab a cup of Joe and enjoy. I think you are going to find a lot of useful information here. Unfortunately, in your case, the number of things that it can possibly be at this point is too many to even begin to list.
As for your problem, when you say that it won't start, what do you mean by this? The motor will crank, but not fire, the motor will not crank, .....? this will change where the problem can be.
Sit back, grab a cup of Joe and enjoy. I think you are going to find a lot of useful information here. Unfortunately, in your case, the number of things that it can possibly be at this point is too many to even begin to list.
Ready to go hide out....someone said key may have to be reprogrammed. Is this a possibility. Engine does not turn over. Do all wheels need to be on the ground?
Veteran member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
Likes: 4,101
From: Great Mills, MD
Shaney, as long as you are using the same ECU that you had in the car originally, that will not be an issue.
First, remove relay R10 from the engine bay fuse box. Find pins 3 and 5 for this relay inside of the fuse box. Insert a small piece of wire between these two pins. Does the motor turn over now (doesn't matter if the key is in the car or not, preferable to not have the key installed)? If yes, then you know the whole high current portion of the starter system is good in the car and the problem lies with either the ignition switch, ECU/passive anti-theft system, or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay (R10). See below for further checks. If the engine did not crank, then you have a problem with the wiring to the starter. Check to make sure you have battery power to the starter, you have the ground wire between the engine and the body installed, and the small command wire connected to the starter. If all these are good, then odds are you have a bad starter. Make sure to use a multimeter to check these wires.
Now, if you got the engine to crank over using the jumper wire, next you will need to connect a multimeter between pin 2 of relay R10 and chassis ground. Install a 500 ohm resistor (or any resistor more than 200 ohms) between pins 1 and 2 of relay R10 (or reinstall relay R10 with a small wire sticking out the side of the relay that is attached to pin 2). With the multimeter connected, attempt to start the car using the key. Does the multimeter do a little blip upscale and then settle back to around 0.0 VDC (anything under 1.0 VDC is good)? If yes, then you have a bad relay R10. If the multimeter is showing 12 VDC, then the car is not getting the signal from the instrument cluster to start the engine. But, first check that the fuse for the ECU is not blown. If the fuse is good, then odds are you have a key issue.
Hopefully this will get your problem figured out. If you need more info, let me know.
First, remove relay R10 from the engine bay fuse box. Find pins 3 and 5 for this relay inside of the fuse box. Insert a small piece of wire between these two pins. Does the motor turn over now (doesn't matter if the key is in the car or not, preferable to not have the key installed)? If yes, then you know the whole high current portion of the starter system is good in the car and the problem lies with either the ignition switch, ECU/passive anti-theft system, or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay (R10). See below for further checks. If the engine did not crank, then you have a problem with the wiring to the starter. Check to make sure you have battery power to the starter, you have the ground wire between the engine and the body installed, and the small command wire connected to the starter. If all these are good, then odds are you have a bad starter. Make sure to use a multimeter to check these wires.
Now, if you got the engine to crank over using the jumper wire, next you will need to connect a multimeter between pin 2 of relay R10 and chassis ground. Install a 500 ohm resistor (or any resistor more than 200 ohms) between pins 1 and 2 of relay R10 (or reinstall relay R10 with a small wire sticking out the side of the relay that is attached to pin 2). With the multimeter connected, attempt to start the car using the key. Does the multimeter do a little blip upscale and then settle back to around 0.0 VDC (anything under 1.0 VDC is good)? If yes, then you have a bad relay R10. If the multimeter is showing 12 VDC, then the car is not getting the signal from the instrument cluster to start the engine. But, first check that the fuse for the ECU is not blown. If the fuse is good, then odds are you have a key issue.
Hopefully this will get your problem figured out. If you need more info, let me know.
