I replaced the rear brake pads, the car runs good for about 10 km and then sticky brakes started. All 4 wheels are sticky. I end up replacing the rear calipers and the rear brake hoses hoping that it will solve the issue. I'd bled the system and tested but it's still the same - sticking brakes after running about 10 km. What I do when this happens is to open one bleeding port and it's good to go again. Then, I replaced the master cylinder but still did not resolve the issue. I tested the vacuum booster and work fine I guess. Now, after putting the car at the garage since the issue started in May 2017 and not using it, I tried again and discovered that the sticking is still there but now on the Front left and passenger rear wheels only. The other two wheels (front right and rear passenger left) do not stick anymore.

I'm thinking of replacing the vacuum brake booster but a bit expensive. Any help here is much appreciated.

Thanks,

 

From your write up I am assuming you didn't have this problem before the brake work on the rear. Since you replaced the rear calipers and also the master cylinder the I have to assume they are in good order. A bent rod on the booster will cause sticking but it should show up at all wheels. If the booster has failed then the pedal should be very hard to push and the brakes very slow to react.
So I think your problem is still having air in the system that is causing the ABS to act up trying to control wheel speed. I would try bleeding the system again following the procedures outlined in the shop manual (attached below) before replacing anymore components. Make absolutely sure you keep the master cylinder topped up. Also make sure you have not damaged any of the wires going to the wheel sensors.

 

Thank you, avern1, and also appreciate you sending the bleeding procedure. A friend and I bleed the brake system many times previously and did it a couple of ways. We made sure that no air may enter the system and make the reservoir always filled when bleeding. We will bleed again per the procedure you've sent. We’ve also examined the booster rod last year when we're addressing the issue desperately to solve it and it looked good, not bent.

Do you consider the ABS valve block could be the reason? I’ve read a thread posted here by David Jump that solved his issues by ultra soaking and cleaning, refitting the ABS valve block. This is what I plan on doing ASAP. I will just have to research more on the removal, and the process of cleaning so I’ll not damage it. I’ll try to ask David for some tips.

Thanks again.