Hello yall,
Ok, delema,
I have a rubber mounting attached to the end of my transfor case, which, 1, restricts my access to the drain nut,
2, in Bo's awsome post about filling through the drain isnt a option for me.
Question being, how will i go about draining and filling this rear transfor case?
An not to mention, Alphadude brought up a good point about the propshaft, i looked and it appears to be dry, am i wasteing my time with this transfor case?? an my whinning noise comes from the propshaft??
Thanks for all ur help!!
Oh, is it just me or are all the photos from these post been deleted????

 

Smoothshift, you have me lost here, rear transfer case. Are you talking about the rear differential (ie, under the trunk area?) if you are talking about that, then you don't have a drain plug on that, you have to suck the current fluid out with a vacuum pump and then refill the rear differential with 75W-140 full synthetic fluid.

If you are talking about the transfer case, I would be curious as to what rubber mounting you have attached there (pics please). If it is a scoop looking piece, then you can remove that by removing the 10mm bolt that holds it in place on the other end. The end at the transfer case (as I recall) is simply held in place with a plastic dowel. The drain plug is at the very bottom of the case hidden inside the webbing on the side of the transfer case. So, I think you might be looking at the wrong plug.

As for wasting time worrying about doing the transfer case fluid change, I don't think you are wasting your time at all. If you don't know what it was last done or it has been more than say 30K miles, then it is due. When it comes to the propeller shaft bearing, that can be the source of a lot of noises and I would grease that too. You can do both of these things in your driveway/garage in no time.

Here is a picture that I took and is located in my gallery.
As you can see from the pic, I am using a radiator drain valve with a 1/2" male NPT to 1/4" NPT female adapter. All you have to do is file off the flats of the adapter to give yourself room to install the assembly (if you don't fill off the flats, they will contact the transfer case, preventing proper installation). Then I use some tygon tubing and place it inside of the brass collar and run the other end to above the engine. I can then gravity fill all the fluid I need to (proper amount is adding about 400 ml, to achieve a total fluid content of 550 ml-150 ml remains in the transfer case unless you take action to lean the car and drain that remaining stuff out). If you need more info about the transfer case fluid change, let me know. I have done it on mine and another members car. The hard part of the whole thing is simply getting the tygon hose into the collar. But, if you do that with the valve closed, it is really easy (ie, remove the drain plug, install the new valve, close the valve, install the hose, and then open the valve).