myjag, what you are experiencing is the difference between the transfer cases in 2004 and up x types. Because the 2003 and below were notorious for having transfer case problems, jaguar decided to change the case around a little bit and reduce the flexing on the transfer case. In doing so, they got rid of the viscous coupling inside of the transfer case which I personally believe is what gave the x type the majority of the awd. Many members on this forum have different opinions as to which transfer case is better and they are all right in their reasoning, but one thing is for sure... The 2004 and up xcases are more reliable, yet they also seem to be more of a rear wheel drive car than an awd car which is what you are experiencing. So to answer your question, your car is fine if the front wheels are not spinning, it just means your transfer case will probably last longer

Also I would like to suggest to do something with the member "kalkoperth." He only has one post, no introduction, his post is faulty, and is advertising in his post which is in a highly viewed thread. Just my thought.

 

Just a quick thanks to all contributors to this thread, lots of good bits of info.
Attempted this last weekend on a 2001 V6 with 5 speed man box.

UK owners can buy all necessary fitting from (Links included)

All are ½" Brass Fittings (12.7mm)

½" Male to Male Connector


LINK - PlumbSure Central Heating Brass Hex Nipple 12.7mm Male, 0000003889244

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½" Female to Female connector


LINK - PlumbSure Central Heating Brass Socket 12.7mm, 0000003889275

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½" Drain **** Valve


LINK - PlumbSure Draw Off Plug 12.7mm, 0000003888971

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Some minor modification is required

* - The ribs on each end of the female to female connector will require carefull grinding down, taking care not to cut down to the threads.

* - You could VERY carefully grind flat the body of the female to female connector to allow use of adjustable spanner to tighten it on. If you can imagine it would no longer be a cylinder shape, more like a oblong block.

* - The drain **** valve will need the nozzle trimming down to fit, this is to allow enough clearance to screw in the fitting in.

Rest was very easy & straight forward, simply attached clear tubing & hand pump to nozzle, pumped in required amount of oil (I overfilled) , leave clear tubing attached, turn valve shut, then remove pipe, wipe excess, done, few drops of oil lost & virtually NO mess

Don't forget the PTFE tape

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EDIT - Hand Pump available from Machine Mart



LINK - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-transfer-tool

Any question feel free to PM me.
I can even give you my number & talk you through it

Good Luck

 

Plase forgive me for posting to an old thread, but I have a question regarding this process. So if I'm understanding correctly, there is only one hole in the transfer case, and for this job it serves as both the drain hole and the fill hole. So with the hole being so low on the transfer case, how do you prevent all of the new fluid from coming out when you go to screw the plug back in? I get the purpose of the fill valve, to be able to shut off the flow once it's full so that the fluid doesn't drain back out, but what about when you take out the fill valve to put the plug back in? Or is the whole idea that you leave the fill valve in permanently?

 

Here is how I did it..


Remove the Drain plug (be sure to clean all the metal grit from drain plug) and let it drain..while it's draining, jack up the right side of the car as far as you can to the point of almost tipping it over..this will get as much of the old lube out as possible..,don't expect much either.

Now let it down and jack up the left side of the car to about the same height..measure off about 600 ml of synthetic 75w140 gear oil and pump it in with a hand pump (you get them from any auto parts store)..The faster you pump it in, the better..then quickly install the drain plug before too much pours out..

 

This method is fine but be wary of adding 600mls of oil. If the transfer box is drained using the standard drain plug, there will be 250mls of oil left in the bottom of the box and even with tipping the car over, much of this remains. Unless you measure how much of that 250mls you get out, you're likely to overfill and the excess will blow out of the vent in the top of the box, giving the impression of a blown shaft seal on the righthand side.

 

That is a good cautionary statement..one I too was worried about..BUT as I said, if you tip the car up on the right side as high as you can get it, it will drain most of the old lube oil out..I did fill I think around 550 ml because by the time you mess around to get the drain plug in, you lose about 50 ml...Anyway..I drove it for 30,000 more miles and didn't have one drip or drop of blown out overfill..just saying, I didn't have any problems..

BTW: It must be mentioned again, Please be safe and use Jack-stands to keep the car off of you..

 

When the t-case is properly filled, should the oil JUST BARELY be starting to seep out the drain hole when that side of the car is raised 20"? Meaning, does jacking the car to the side 20" raise the drain hole to the proper "fill" level?

Thanks.

 

Jaguar recommend draining by disconnecting the rear drive shaft, removing the drive flange from the t'box output and removing the oil seal. When drained, fit new seal, reassemble the drive shaft and jack up the lefthand side sill edge to 540mm/21.25 in. Fill t'box with 400mls, replace plug and lower car!

 

Well I'm done here..this is an old worn out subject anyway..everyone has their own way..

good luck

 

While at my local dealer recently, I asked about having the transfer case, trans and rear diff oils changed, mostly because I like to start out with fresh fluids in my previuosly-owned cars. The quote was $990.00 plus $56..00 tax. I asked if they thought I brought in a Ferrari! I passed. Get my trusty independent to do it and supply the lubes instead.

 

Gold° I just have the same model as you, have you figued out how to keep the oil at the box after refill procedure... I just make a drain and refill, aber seems like there can not be done like this way... and there is high frequency noise emerges after i drain out the oil and havent put enough back in, i fell its like the gear cut each other without oil.

 

Dang.
They must have been thinking a pretty short life.
What I'd like to do is tell you all is I changed the oil in the transfer case today. I'd really like to say I changed it. But that is, technically speaking, not exactly what I did!

I raised the right side of the car up to where the bodywork was 20 inches off the ground, propped it up with jack stands, slid underneath and removed the plug from the transfer case... no easy feat, it is well tucked in behind some bulbous appendage of the transmission... and... and... nothing came out.

So just how bad was it? I pumped in four strokes of the pump on my bottle of Royal Purple 75W-140 and a little ran back out. How much is 4 pumps? I got out from underneath and pumped in 4 strokes into my measuring cup, and 4 strokes put in about 50 ml. If it is true that when drained at this angle about 250 ml remains, then I had about 200 ml left in there to begin with. That's all.

I measured out 500 ml of oil, switched sides and elevated the left side. I got about 400ml of the oil in there before it started to run back out. And then had a stink of a time getting the plug restarted back and must have lost another 50 ml back out. That should mean I have about 600 ml in there now.

So I can't really say I CHANGED the transfer case oil. But I do feel better.

I'll give it a month and do it again and try to get some of the nasty out of it.

UPDATE: driving around today, the car is much quieter, and the vibration I have at 60+ mph is still there but is greatly reduced and at times goes away completely.

 

AlfaVeloce,

How many miles on the car when you did this TC fill up?

 

122,000 miles

 

Thanks.

I had my 2003 2.5 up on jacks last night for it's 30,000 mile oil change and tire rotation.

While I had all the tools out, I decided to jack the drivers side up 20" and back the TC drain plug out. To my delight, good, clean fluid began to seep out as I got to the final threads of the plug. I raised the car another 2" and tested again. Same result. Good to know my TC is completely full and the fluid is fresh.

I raised the rear-end a few inches and backed the rear differential fill plug out to see what I'd. No fluid leaked out. This might be due to the fact the car was un-level (nose down.) Just to be safe, I gave it 10 or 12 squirts of gear oil from a pump-can. Still, no fluid leaked out. I did not want to over fill, so I plugged it back up and called it "good enough."

Question: Both TC and Diff plugs had red silicone sealant on the threads. Is this from the factory? Or has someone had these plugs out before me?

Thanks.

 

My original sealant on both was the red stuff.

 

I have red sealant on mine too - must be from the factory. Did you guys have any trouble cleaning the sealant residue off and getting a tight seal when you screwed the plugs back on?

 

Wire brushed mine till bright, then seal with thin ptfe tape - maybe 10 to 15 turns. Never fails. Being a taper thread, don't over tighten. 15 lbf.ft/20Nm only.

 

My seal stuff on the plug was red/reddish orange. It looked fine. I put it back in as-is since I'm taking it back out in a week or two.

 

I just left mine original sealant on too. Did not clean or replace.

Is this going to cause leaks?