Sorry for the confusion... I was talking to the original poster. I got the impression that he was planning on cutting the power, ground, and remote wires that lead to the stock amp and plugging them in to the aftermarket amp.

I would do a setup similar to the ones that you described. Use the high levels to feed the signal to the amp, run my own wires to the subs, and run new power and ground witha fuse in the line to the battery/fuse box (which ever you run it to).

 

Oh ok...

 

This can also be accomplished by running a wire from the fuse panel. Whichever one you pick just make sure the power is turned on by the ignition.

 

Some amps (I know my JL audio has this) has a turn-on sensing function for high-level inputs only. If you specifically look for an amplifier that has this option, you won't have to worry about trying to find a way to turn it on and off. lol I would never have thought about tricking it, way to think outside the box bo.

There have been previous discussions on new power wires to these amps, and unless you really go larger on the amp & speakres...the existing power wire should be fine. I'd ground new though, but that's easy to do. I'll stick by my recommendation if you go with 6.5s and under 100w, it should be adequate.

 

That's pretty sweet feature h20, probably similar to the auto on/off feature on the home theater subs. I don't think I could spend that kind of money on a jl tho! LOL

I've wanted this amp forever now...

 

Ahhha! Using the old amp to feed the new amp so the EQ functions (sub level) can be used...gotcha! i was wondering why you were so concerned about keeping the old amp in there.

 

I believe my old amp to be dead, since it's not currently powering the speakers at all, so hooking it up to a new amp wouldn't and using a resistor and a cap as bo did may not be an option. I'm really not looking for too much bass, in my first car I went way overkill with a 2000W amp and broke my mirrors, seals and rattled a bunch of screws out. 100W would be plenty for me.

I checked out the 6.5" kickers and they apparently work in free-air applications to, so I could put one in the decklid with a new amp. For 100W, hopefully the power cable would hopefully be good enough and I could simply run a new ground and then a remote to the headunit (this will probably be a pain, no idea about the stock navi's hookups)

Something just came to mind though: would it be possible that I have a fried fuse? Does the subwoofer amp run off its own fuse? Anyone have a guide to the fuse box in an x-type?

 

I can't remember the specifics. It is possible that a fuse is blown. It's always easiest to check these small stupid things rather than waste money if your happy.

If you cannot get your stock amp working, running the wires wont be a big deal since you'll have to tap into the door speakers to supply a signal source to the aftermarket amp.

 

I don't know if I'd be happy with the stock woofer, it never worked since I bought it!

I pulled three fuses associated with the audio system and amp, as per the manual: F69, F72, F74. F69 had a 7.5 amp rating but the manual said it should be 10 so I swapped it. Everything else appeared fine... After turning it on, the sub didn't work

 

Wish I could help more. The only thing I can say is test all the wires going into the amp and check for power (someone may have the write-up for what colored wire does what???)

 

I really didn't like to stock sub or system for that matter. When I can have a conversation with the radio all the way up, it just has to go. I would start by bypassing the stock wiring and running some after market wires and equipment. There is some great advise in this thread about trunk space, 5 channel amps and free air woofers. I personally really dont need the trunk space but lost 1/2 of it to a box. I believe you may be able to use the upper portion of the stock box, maybe even make the holes bigger for some bigger woofers, and just hang some free-airs from the back deck. The down side is they need lots of power but being they are in the back deck you might not need that much. JL makes some kick *** stuff...

 

Well anything that he could fit back in that spot wouldn't need too much power. I haven't seen too powerful of 6.5's.

Has anyone put anything bigger in the back deck or anything more powerful? I'd imagine you'd have to dynamat the crap out of it to keep everything/including the window from rattling???

I say get 2 of these and toss them under your driver seat! They take very little power! I'm going to put some on my couch when I get a chance!