What does Bank 1 and Bank 2 mean?
#2
On Jaguar's in-line 6 cylinder, the AJ6 or AJ16 engines, Bank 1 refers to cylinders 1, 2 and 3, while Bank 2 is cylinders 4, 5 and 6.
Hope that helps!
#3
bank 1 vs bank 2
On a 1996 vdp x300 engine, would cylinders cylinders 1, 2 and 3 also apply to bank 1? And where are 1, 2 and 3 located, nearest to the firewall or nearest to the radiator? thank you
The term "bank" refers to a grouping of cylinders in the engine. In "V" configured engines, as in V6 and V8, Bank 1 is the reference to the RH bank of cylinders, as the engine sits in the car and viewed from the driver seat. Bank 2 is the LH side. In the X-Type, the engine is turned 90 degrees to the right, that means Bank 1 is now the rear bank and Bank 2 is at the front.
On Jaguar's in-line 6 cylinder, the AJ6 or AJ16 engines, Bank 1 refers to cylinders 1, 2 and 3, while Bank 2 is cylinders 4, 5 and 6.
Hope that helps!
On Jaguar's in-line 6 cylinder, the AJ6 or AJ16 engines, Bank 1 refers to cylinders 1, 2 and 3, while Bank 2 is cylinders 4, 5 and 6.
Hope that helps!
#5
I have 2004 Jaguar X-type 2.5, manufactured for USA roads (driver is on the left side, instrument table is on MPH).
I understood, "bank 1" has 2 oxigen sensors (grey plug = upstream & black plug = downstream).
Also, I understood, "bank 2" has 2 oxigen sensors (grey plug = upstream & black plug = downstream).
Can somebody use this photo of engine of my car, and draw on this photo
2 arrows, that red arrow shows positions of "bank 1" oxigen sensors plugs , and that yellow arrow shows position of "bank 2" oxigen sensors plugs?
I understood, "bank 1" has 2 oxigen sensors (grey plug = upstream & black plug = downstream).
Also, I understood, "bank 2" has 2 oxigen sensors (grey plug = upstream & black plug = downstream).
Can somebody use this photo of engine of my car, and draw on this photo
2 arrows, that red arrow shows positions of "bank 1" oxigen sensors plugs , and that yellow arrow shows position of "bank 2" oxigen sensors plugs?
#6
I can't draw on your photo but the front sensor upper is just below the air cleaner on the exhaust manifold. The connector is beneath the battery box. The front lower sensor is at the base of the catalytic convertor that is bolted to the exhaust manifold.
The rear sensors are in the same location, If you look beneath the intake area on the drivers side you can see the upper sensor at the exhaust manifold. The lower sensor will be at the base of the catalytic convertor.
The rear sensors are in the same location, If you look beneath the intake area on the drivers side you can see the upper sensor at the exhaust manifold. The lower sensor will be at the base of the catalytic convertor.
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newtojags (03-27-2018)
#7
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#8
L and R banks are identified as viewed from the rear of the engine. The right hand cylinder bank is numbered 5,3,1 and the left hand cylinder bank is numbered 6,4,2.
LH upstream (manifold - item 14) and downstream (catalyst - item 13) circled.
RH upstream (manifold - item 1) circled. Downstream (catalyst - item 16) sensor is not visible in the drawing.
Graham
LH upstream (manifold - item 14) and downstream (catalyst - item 13) circled.
RH upstream (manifold - item 1) circled. Downstream (catalyst - item 16) sensor is not visible in the drawing.
Graham
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newtojags (03-27-2018)
#9
The front bank plugs are beneath the battery box. Remove the battery and the plastic box and the are mounted under the steel battery support bracket.
For the rear follow the upper sensor wire from the exhaust manifold up to where they are mounted on the metal wall behind the engine.
If you have a sensor gone bad then it would show up as a check engine light and the OBD Scan would identify the bad sensor.
Before going into throwing parts at the problem get a scan of the OBD codes and post the numbers and we can help you out.
For the rear follow the upper sensor wire from the exhaust manifold up to where they are mounted on the metal wall behind the engine.
If you have a sensor gone bad then it would show up as a check engine light and the OBD Scan would identify the bad sensor.
Before going into throwing parts at the problem get a scan of the OBD codes and post the numbers and we can help you out.
#10
Tanks a lot to Graham ("GGG") and "avern1".
I checked and meassured all 4 sensors and their wires. Several times "to plug - to unplug" and to check on computer.
Definitely, the bank 2 sensor 1 is object to replace.
Code fault is P1647, there is 0 (zero) ohm only on that sensor, voltage of wires are normal.
As, information, the number of bank 2 sensor 1 (upsteam oxygen sensor on bank 2 of the X-type) engine, what is written on Denso product is:
1X43 - 9F472AA .
That sensors use various models of Jaguar (not only X-type) and various models of Ford.
I checked and meassured all 4 sensors and their wires. Several times "to plug - to unplug" and to check on computer.
Definitely, the bank 2 sensor 1 is object to replace.
Code fault is P1647, there is 0 (zero) ohm only on that sensor, voltage of wires are normal.
As, information, the number of bank 2 sensor 1 (upsteam oxygen sensor on bank 2 of the X-type) engine, what is written on Denso product is:
1X43 - 9F472AA .
That sensors use various models of Jaguar (not only X-type) and various models of Ford.
Last edited by jaguar.awd; 04-05-2018 at 05:19 AM.
#11
Afrer one year and many troubles, how to know what exactly caused yellow light "check engine", I went to official Jaguar service in Sofija (Bulgaria), about 430 miles far from Mostar (Bosna i Hercegovina).
They have original dyagnostic for my model.
The results of dyagnostic are in attachment.
There are two main problems:
1. P1647 = should to replace C2S51801 (lambda sonda for block 2 sensor 1)
2. P0305 = should to replace C2S42673 (ignition coil of cylinder 5 on block 1)
They have original dyagnostic for my model.
The results of dyagnostic are in attachment.
There are two main problems:
1. P1647 = should to replace C2S51801 (lambda sonda for block 2 sensor 1)
2. P0305 = should to replace C2S42673 (ignition coil of cylinder 5 on block 1)
#12
Jaguar SDD is the best tool to use but any code reader should have been able to detect the Powertrain DTC error codes P0305 and P1647.
Graham
#13
jaguar.awd: Pictures of the locations of all 4 oxygen sensors are in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084601
And pictures of the locations of electrical connectors for all 4 oxygen sensors are in this post (same thread): https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084230
Cylinder #5 is on Bank 1 - the firewall side - near the brake master cylinder of your continental Europe car (for UK cars, the brake master cylinder is on the opposite side / driver's side). You'll need to remove the upper intake manifold to reach the firewall spark plugs.
Don't assume you need to replace a COP - Coil on Plug - to fix code P0305 - cylinder #5 misfire. Misfires are usually caused by engine oil in the spark plug well. If there's oil in the wells, remove the valve covers, clean up the oil and install new valve cover gaskets. I'd do this on both banks while you have it apart.
One last trick......swap the coils between cylinders #2 and #5 while you have it apart. Cylinder #2 is on the radiator side by the oil fill cap and easy to access, so if the misfire continues after you replace the gaskets and clean up the oil, the #2 coil is easy to replace with minimal disassembly.
Search this forum for many posts on how remove the upper intake manifold to replace the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets - routine maintenance for our aging cats. Here's one with pictures: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ted-how-62847/
Good luck.
And pictures of the locations of electrical connectors for all 4 oxygen sensors are in this post (same thread): https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084230
Cylinder #5 is on Bank 1 - the firewall side - near the brake master cylinder of your continental Europe car (for UK cars, the brake master cylinder is on the opposite side / driver's side). You'll need to remove the upper intake manifold to reach the firewall spark plugs.
Don't assume you need to replace a COP - Coil on Plug - to fix code P0305 - cylinder #5 misfire. Misfires are usually caused by engine oil in the spark plug well. If there's oil in the wells, remove the valve covers, clean up the oil and install new valve cover gaskets. I'd do this on both banks while you have it apart.
One last trick......swap the coils between cylinders #2 and #5 while you have it apart. Cylinder #2 is on the radiator side by the oil fill cap and easy to access, so if the misfire continues after you replace the gaskets and clean up the oil, the #2 coil is easy to replace with minimal disassembly.
Search this forum for many posts on how remove the upper intake manifold to replace the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets - routine maintenance for our aging cats. Here's one with pictures: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ted-how-62847/
Good luck.
#14
For me, to drive 2 x 430 miles is not so problem, I love that!
In this situation, I was not go to Sofija (Bulgarija), just for dyagnostic. I was there on 4 days trip, because Sofija is splendid town with roman ruins, with old churches, with very good food, with mountain close to town.
Also, I was in Jaguar service to dyagnostic. I have got complete list of ali "codes" (not only "P" code).
For example, ali previous non-original dyagnostics did not showed "P0305".
Last edited by jaguar.awd; 05-05-2018 at 11:28 AM.
#15
Don't assume you need to replace a COP - Coil on Plug - to fix code P0305 - cylinder #5 misfire. Misfires are usually caused by engine oil in the spark plug well. If there's oil in the wells, remove the valve covers, clean up the oil and install new valve cover gaskets. I'd do this on both banks while you have it apart.
One last trick......swap the coils between cylinders #2 and #5 while you have it apart. Cylinder #2 is on the radiator side by the oil fill cap and easy to access, so if the misfire continues after you replace the gaskets and clean up the oil, the #2 coil is easy to replace with minimal disassembly.
.
I will buy 1 used coil C2S42673. That used coils are cheap and still very good.
Also, I will buy 6 gaskets XR843533.
I allready instaled 6 new bulbs and 6 new other gaskets .
Of course, I will buy 1 used lambda sensor C2S51801. Just need to check ohms.
#16
The full print from an SDD diagnostics session is always very useful. Jaguar recommendation is NOT to clear codes because the earlier codes can help diagnosis.
Graham
#17
If your X-Type is well over 160 KM's (100K miles), consider also replacing the downstream oxygen sensor on Bank 1 (the firewall side). It's possible to replace this sensor without removing the upper intake manifold, but you'll see that it's much easier to access after you remove the upper intake.
#18
I have to explain something.
I live Mostar (Bosna i Hercegovina). In Sarajevo (capital of Bosna i Hercegovina) was opened Jaguar service in Novembar 2017.
I ask them for dyagnostic, but they responded: "we cannot because your Jaguar is 2004 X-yype, but we have instrument for 2008 X-type and younger".
It was reason why I should find another service and choice was Sofija.
Yesterday, I sent message (with results of dyagnostic in attachment) to service in Sarajevo and ask them again if they can to replace me parts, what I will buy by myself and bring.
They refused and wrote "we can replaced only parts what you buy through us", and added incredible prices and asked 50% money in advance.
I am frustrated about that so called "Jaguar service" and I think to complant in Coventry.
So called "service" in Sarajevo must not have licence if they have no dyagnostic tools for each model of Jaguar and if they refuse to fix vechile using replacement parts what I buy by myself.
I live Mostar (Bosna i Hercegovina). In Sarajevo (capital of Bosna i Hercegovina) was opened Jaguar service in Novembar 2017.
I ask them for dyagnostic, but they responded: "we cannot because your Jaguar is 2004 X-yype, but we have instrument for 2008 X-type and younger".
It was reason why I should find another service and choice was Sofija.
Yesterday, I sent message (with results of dyagnostic in attachment) to service in Sarajevo and ask them again if they can to replace me parts, what I will buy by myself and bring.
They refused and wrote "we can replaced only parts what you buy through us", and added incredible prices and asked 50% money in advance.
I am frustrated about that so called "Jaguar service" and I think to complant in Coventry.
So called "service" in Sarajevo must not have licence if they have no dyagnostic tools for each model of Jaguar and if they refuse to fix vechile using replacement parts what I buy by myself.
#19
jaguar.awd: Beautiful country & people. Traveling there is always enjoyable.
Regrettably your car repair experience is common. Dealers and independent mechanics routinely insist on parts they supply, Used parts are out of the question. So you must decide, like the rest of us:
Option #1) Drive a newer car with higher dependability & warranty at higher initial cost.
Option #2) Drive a used car with lower dependability and lower cost to buy, but higher cost for a mechanic to maintain.
Option #3) Drive a used car with lower dependability and lower cost to buy, and lower cost for maintenance you do.
Most of us chose option #3 and help each other maintain our old X-Types. Some chose option #2 and come here with questions, e.g. when their mechanic doesn’t know common ailments & repair needs of X-Types.
You’re seeing that you can save a lot of money doing your own repairs with lower cost parts that you buy. OBD code readers have become very inexpensive and are necessary to diagnose problems either on your own or with help from this forum, where almost every problem with your X-Type has already been solved by someone here.
So your experience and frustration is common, and this forum can help if you decide to do the repairs yourself with parts you buy at relatively low cost.
Regrettably your car repair experience is common. Dealers and independent mechanics routinely insist on parts they supply, Used parts are out of the question. So you must decide, like the rest of us:
Option #1) Drive a newer car with higher dependability & warranty at higher initial cost.
Option #2) Drive a used car with lower dependability and lower cost to buy, but higher cost for a mechanic to maintain.
Option #3) Drive a used car with lower dependability and lower cost to buy, and lower cost for maintenance you do.
Most of us chose option #3 and help each other maintain our old X-Types. Some chose option #2 and come here with questions, e.g. when their mechanic doesn’t know common ailments & repair needs of X-Types.
You’re seeing that you can save a lot of money doing your own repairs with lower cost parts that you buy. OBD code readers have become very inexpensive and are necessary to diagnose problems either on your own or with help from this forum, where almost every problem with your X-Type has already been solved by someone here.
So your experience and frustration is common, and this forum can help if you decide to do the repairs yourself with parts you buy at relatively low cost.
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