My gf has recently gotten tired of dishing out 90+ dollars so im going to start doing it, but I am unsure of what type of motor oil to use. I called Jaguar and they said Non-synthetic Mobil 1 10w-30, but I'm thinking that all Mobil 1 is synthetic. I use Havoline 10w-30 on my other vehicles, but wanted to double check before putting any of that into a Jaguar. Please let me know what you guys use in your X-types. Thanks, in advance.

 

Most say on the oil filler cap what Jag recommends.

Castrol GTX 5W 30. A new Purolator Oil Filter PL20195 would make a most excellent change!

 

Most dealers in the UK use Castrol Magnetec 5w-30.
Ive used this in mine for 4 years of owning
I queried the type with Jag customer services and they emailed to say it doesnt matter whether you use synthetic or semi synthetic they dont recommend one above the other as long as it meets their specifications I suppose.
Enter your car details here for which oils are OK
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castr...ategoryId=3205
It all comes down to personal preference as a lot of owners on this site have their own preferences for which oil they use that meets at least the spec

 

thanks guys!!

 

I have been using 5-W30 Amsoil and mobil 1

 

Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic in the winter. 10w30 in the warmer months since my car has 100k on the odo.

 

5w-30 Amsoil Synthetic Oil with a Mann or OEM Filter.

Oil change intervals of 10K miles.

 

Royal Purple 10w -30

 

Castrol GTX 5W 30 is what I use.

 

Why would you go the 10w30 in the warmer months???

 

not to put words in his mouth, but my guess would be that he's compensating for what he is assuming are 'growing' tolerances.
In other words; as the mileage on the motor increases, so do the tolerances in bearings and other friction areas of the motor. the thinking is that a 'thicker' or heavier viscosity oil will 'fill' that space better than a thinner oil, and create a better barrier of lubrication. He's probably thinking as well that in the winter, the lower temps leave the oil thicker and he's getting the same result.

It's old-school, and is one of those "generally accepted facts" among the old-schoolers, but I've never seen a study that indicates it works. In fact, since the thermostat in the motor regulates the temp of the oil (indirectly, by determining the temp of the coolant), the ambient temp probably has very little to do with the temp of the oil.

but I dunno. I've never tested it.
There are new oils on the market that are designed for the higher-mileage motor. I don;t know what they do to it to call it thus.... anybody else know?

personally; I'm a fan of high quality full-synthetics...... always.... no matter the viscosity.
I'm a royal purple or redline sort of guy.

 

I use Mobil 1 5W-30. I think that the recommended weight is important considering the variable valve timing.

If you don't want to spring for the brand name premium (although Mobil 1 is available at WalMart) you can get WalMart brand full synthetic for a bit less.

I usually wait till Mobil 1 is on sale at Auto Zone. They have a sale periodically where you can get 5 qts of Mobil 1, any weight, and a Mobil 1 oil filter for $29.95. At Auto Zone you can sign up for one of their cards where you get a $5.00 credit every time you spend $20.00 or more so I will buy 5 qts & a filter four or five days during the week it's on sale.

 

I switched over to Unical 76 Full Synthetic 5W-30. Car runs a lot better now. Engine is buttery smooth all the way to redline now. Oil Change every 3000 miles just to be on the safe side. Cause I drive my car HARD.

 

I run 5W30 Castrol GTX in my car. I use the Motorcraft filter with it.

I have to agree with Mcjaguar on the running of various viscocity oils. The old motors normally had tolerances up in the 0.010" range in a lot of cases (only the valve guides and the lower bearing clearances between the bearing sleeve and the block had tighter tolerances). In the newer motors, in an attempt to get longer life out of the motors and whatnot, the tolerances have been dropped so everything is now down into the 0.002" range, if not tighter. So, with the larger clearances, going with a heavier weight oil during colder times was probably a good idea. But, with the newer motors, going with a heavier oil can actually be detrimental to the motor as the heavier weight oils have a larger molecule, and in some cases, the molecule can be big enough that it can't fit where it needs to, leading to a lack of lubrication all together. You can see where this might be bad.

Keep in mind that when you try looking at the lubricating properties of full synthetics, the weight of the fluid is only a relative measure of how the full synthetic fluid compares to a traditional oil. In a lot of cases, the synthetic molecule is smaller than an equivolent traditional oil. So, there is some argument as to the benefit of running full synthetic. But, with the motor up and running at temp, the difference is negligible.

If you want to learn about oil and the differences between things, check out http://www.bobtheoilguy.com. He works in the oil industry as I recall and has all the inside scoop and will go into the technical side of things about why oil X is better than oil Z.

 

Castrol Syntec 5w30 (#2 brand for wear protection, Amsoil #1)with factory filter..year around..

 

Castrol GTX 5W30 (listed on my oil fill cap), MANN oil filter number W719/36. I change it every 3,000 just because it is cheap insurance in my mind. I used to take it to the dealer for the 10K, 20K, 30K, 40K service.

 

Well I guess we won't know until he answers but onece 5w-30 and 10w-30 oil heats up it is the SAME viscosity. They are both 30 weight when hot. That is the point of multi viscosity oilit is thin when cold, 5 weight or 10 weight then THICKENS when hot to 30 weight. This helps the old to flow better on cold start up.

 

That is correct, mostly.
Here's a great description my boy found some time ago when his science project demanded some research.

The oil doesn't thicken.... it exhibits the characteristics of both viscosities, at their corresponding temperature ratings.

 

Well, I don't want to get into a Bojangles contest with you but
when cold, 5w-30 flows like 5 weight oil and when hot it flows
like 30 weight. Last I knew, 30w is thicker then 5w.

My point was I can see no reason to switch between 5w-30 and 10w-30
based on cold or warm weather. They both become 30w when hot.

 

Yeah, I don't see any reason for us to argue, when we're saying the same thing. My understanding about HOW it happens is simply different than your own.
Most of my understanding comes from all the research and experimentation we did for my Boy's jr high school science project..... which is ironic, since you brought-up Bo. but I make no claim to being an oil engineer or even a guru. I just know how oil pours when heated on a bunsen burner.....