Changed out starter for a $60 rebuild and now low beam left headlamp does not work. Bulb is good. Changed left bulb to right and right to left and right still works. 4 1/2 ohms on lamp in socket. Plus has battery voltage and ground is good at socket. Did not hurt wiring loom. Is there a relay to check? There are five in the fuse box.

Changed 10 amp fuses left to right and all fuses have 2 ohms and as I stated have 4.5 ohms through socket and bulb.

I already have solved issues on our 66 XKE Roadster in the past and have met the Prince and know him well.

 

More details: Jumped positive wire from low beam to low beam left to right and only right goes on. But there is a good ground at left lamp. Left light bulb lights when moved to right side.

It must be a bad ground in right lamp but it tests well. When I jumper right to ground, the lamp does not light. When I jump right low beam ground to right parking lamp no lights on right side work.

Do I need new wiring harness ?

 

Lucas, you have me a little confused. I am trying to follow what you did and I can not make heads or tails of it.

What I would tell you to do is to first start with removing the fuse for the low beam that does not work. With the multimeter set to VDC, determine which side of the fuse has power. Now, go to the side with no power, set the multimeter to read resistance and measure from the dead side to chassis. Do you have the 4.5 ohms now? If so, all the wiring to the headlight is good and you have a good bulb. That means your problem lies in the fuse box and the problem is between the light buss and the fuse holder or you have bad clips inside the fuse box for the fuse you removed. What you can do at this point is to install the fuse, set the multimeter to VDC and then measure from the top of the fuse to chassis ground (you will find 2 small metal clips there, measure both of them). You should get 12 VDC on them when the headlights are on. If you get 12 VDC on only 1 side, then you have a high resistance fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, then the clip that you found dead has been spread too wide and is making a high resistance connection to the fuse. If you are getting essentially 0 VDC on both posts of the fuse, then the side that had power initially is spread and you are not making a good connection there.

If you need help narrowing things down in the wiring harness, let me know. I can help you there too.

 

We removed the fuse #4 and tested DC with the V.O.M.we got 61.8 m.v. left and .1 m.v. right with switch off.

With the battery switched on we got 600 m.v. left and 45 m.v. right as viewed from in front of car.

 

More: I took a reading at the bad headlamp Fuse #4 and go the above readings. I then removed the fuse from the good lamp and got the same mili-volt readings while that lamp was on.

The right lamp glows with the #1 fuse removed and the fuse terminals read miliamps.

The left lamp fuse #4 reads the same miliamps. I do not get battery voltage at the fuse box. can you assist ?

 

Lucas, if you are not getting battery voltage in the fuse box, then you have a problem inside the fuse box. The signal for the low beams is split inside the fuse box. odds are, your problem lies in a small connector that goes between the jumper inside the fuse box and the spade of the fuse. It will only be but about 1.5" long. Unfortunately, to access this, you have to rip the whole fuse box apart which is no fun unless you buy a new fuse box.

I wish I could give you a batter answer than that, but that is how it is.

 

I am not sure if the bulb is burnt out or not but for two days I have tried to access the headlight bulb but have not been able. I have removed the tray, both front wheels right inter wheel liner but still cant get front bumper off. I cant reach my hand up the inside of the fascia or can I get the nut because it is out of reach. I tried to loosen the charcoal canister but could not reach on one of its bolts. gave up again and put car back together. one issue is i tried to get cover off but could not so cover is loose. I am so put out I am thinking of selling the car and buy a buick

 

I had my front bumper cover off to rebuild the headlight assemblies. Once the wheel liners are removed, the fasteners along the splash shield then there are only 2 bolts remaining.
They are inside the area between the cover and the fender one on each side. They screw into a plastic bracket at the rear towards the tire area. once those are out you need to lift up and pull the cover off of the plastic alignment bracket.
Then the only screws remaining are above the headlight assemblies.

I'm just wondering why you need to pull the light assembly to change bulbs. They are all accessible from the rear of the light fixture.

 

there is not enough room to remove the cover I tried for about 1 hour moving it in all different ways cant get it off cant cover it back up. I read in another thread that someone connected a wire to the spring clip to reconnect it. The only other thing i have done to the car is top radiator hose. It is cold here and very miserable to work long. I am going to check fuses tomorrow.

 

I checked the fuse and it is good the bulb must be bad. I have the black cover loose and wire connector off but the cover will not clear. I have tried twisting it but can't clear the stuff under it. Can someone tell me how to remove the black cover. There does not appear to have enough room to remove it because the ABS break modules is in the way. All I can say is the Jag gave absolutely no care in how an owner would change there headlight. I know take it to the dealer they will change it for hundreds because anyone that owns their car must be loaded and money is no object wrong. I will have to drive that car with no headlight on the right side till summer is hear then I can fight the fascia off and fix the light. I am very disheartened with my purchase wasted my money. But it feel better telling someone.