Hi all, I'm new to the forums and I recently bought a 2003 X Type. I really like the car and I am enjoying it, but I have my first concern. Yesterday the check engine light came on and I noticed the car was shuddering just a bit while idle and sometimes it feels like it is going to stall, but never does. I took it to Autozone and they were able to get this error code indicating some type of electrical problem. They advised a tune up would likely solve the problem. Does anyone have more specifics on what this problem could be and perhaps how much it will cost to fix? Thanks.

 

If I need to post more information please let me know. This problem has me very worried that it might be serious.

 

Ken, the code that you post is a CAN ECM/INST network malfunction. What this is saying is that the wire bundle between the ECM and the instrument cluster is not always relaying all the information correctly, therefore the ECM is having to look at other sensors to guess at what the correct settings should be. Unfortunately, the fix for this is either: 1) new instrument cluster, 2) new ECM, or 3) replacing the CAN wiring bundle between the ECM and instrument cluster. I don't see how a tuneup will help with this.

If you need more info, let me know. I will see what I can dig up about this problem. Based on what I know about our cars, the more likely problem is the instrument cluster. But, I am only taking a guess with that. Have you noticed the instrument cluster doing anything goofey like not always having the gauges where you would expect them to be or the digital readout missing a line or doing funny things? If so, then I would be starting there.

 

Hi,

I just bought an x type too.
I was also concerned about the engine light coming up and staying on until I turn the key to start the engine. When the engine is on, it disappears.
Do I need to be worried or is it how it goes?
Any comment would be very welcome

 

Laurence, what you are seeing with the check engine light is normal. What that is telling you is that the ECM is getting power and it is able to do checks with the car running. This is an anti-tamper thing done to prevent people from simply pulling the bulb to the light to be able to past emissions inspections by "having the light out". As long as the check engine light does not come on as you are driving, all is good.

 

Thanks for the reply. It seems so odd to me that a bad instrument panel can cause my car to act as if it wants to stall. The only thing I noticed on the instrument panel is that when I tested out the dimmer, it wouldn't respond correctly, brightening and dimming randomly. If this is indeed the issue how much does a new one cost usually? For this type of problem do I have to worry about the car going into limp home mode?

 

Chris,

Thank you very much for your comment on my issue, I feel so much at rest now, I didn't buy a lemon!
Forgive my ignorance but I am a keen learner

Ken,

Sorry for butting in your thread.
I really hope you can sort your issue well and easy

 

Ken, as for the dimmer, do all of the lights (radio, door lights for switches, other dash switches, etc) flicker with the instrument cluster or is it only the instrument cluster that is having issues. If it is all the lights, then you have a bad headlight switch and you need a new headlight switch (the dimmer is built into the headlight switch, so, you can't get just a dimmer). If it is only the instrument having the issue, I would first remove the instrument cluster from the car and check all the solder joints on the back. It is possible that you simple have a plug that has gotten bumped and a few of the solder joints have been cracked. This will also give you a chance to check out the wire bundle to so you can see if there is a damaged wire. After that, I would be looking at a professional repair tech to look at the car as he will have the proper equipment to differentiate between the instrument cluster and an ECM.

Laurence, we all have to start somewhere with a new car. Don't worry about it. I like learning about all the vehicles I drive in extreme detail.

 

Thanks thermo. Only the instrument clusters dims strangely. Also today I took the car to get scanned again and apparently all cylinders are misfiring. Could this also be caused by bad instrument cluster or ECM?

 

Ken, instrument cluster really has nothing to do with the firing of the engine/spark plugs except for the fact that if the instrument cluster was pulling too much power, it could affect the operation of the ECM.

Based on what you are describing, you have 2 issues. The one being a problem with the ECM which is resulting in the P1638 code and the weak firing. The second problem being the lighting issue with the instrument cluster. These two issues are coming through 2 different plugs. So, we can rule that out.

As for the flashing instrument cluster, I would venture to guess that you have a loose ground wire for the instrument cluster. If it is the connection inside the dash, then you should also be seeing the J-Gate, radio, A/C unit (if separate), and DSC switch (if equipped) all flashing too. If they are not flashing, then it is either the wire going between the instrument cluster and the ground point or the power wire going to the instrument cluster for the lighting. Because you say that none of the other lights in the car are flashing with the instrument cluster, we can eliminate a lot of things. I would say to remove the instrument cluster and verify that the plug on the back of the instrument cluster is tightly installed and then if you want to do voltage measurements, let me know and I will tell you where to probe.

When it comes to your firing issue. All the coils have a common power supply and a common ground. This would be the most likely place for a problem. I would first try replacing fuse F92 as this is easy and simple to do. Next, would be to do a once over of the wiring harness for the coils. Specifically you want to take a look from where the bundle splits to the front and back half of the engine to the firewall. If you have a problem, that is where it is most likely to be. If I remember right, near the driver's strut tower is a point that is fairly tight and the bundle is most likely to get damaged there. Again, if you want to do voltage measurements, let me know. Then we can atleast narrow it down to a ground issue or a power issue.

Hopefully I am giving you some useful information in combatting this casualty.

 

Wow Thermo I really appreciate your feedback. Just to be clear, I only experienced the instrument cluster dimming/brightening issue once when I tried using the dimmer. It does not behave that way normally. I think I will leave the instrument cluster alone for now and focus on the the misfiring cylinders. I will try what you've suggested regarding that and I will let you know what I come across. Supposing I cannot fix this myself, about how much am I looking at in repair costs? Should I continue to drive the car with misfiring cylinders? I drive to work and home only and stay off the highway. Also, do I have to worry about the car going into limp home mode?

 

Ken, if the car is not throwing misfire codes (ie, P0300, P030X where X is the cylinder that is misfiring), I would continue to drive the car. The misfires are only occurring once in awhile and it isn't enough to cause any damage to the engine. Now, am I saying that you should just forget about this, by no means. But, you don't have to worry about any damage to the engine in the short term.

As for repair costs, these are just guestimates, so, take them for what they are worth. I would plan on 2 hours of diagnostic services (at about $100/hr), then you will have the repair time (more than likely an hour or so at $100/hr), and then the cost of the new parts (won't even begin to guess about that). So, plan on $300 plus parts. It can be something very simple like a damaged wire which can be fixed with nothing more than a butt splice and some heat shrink ($3 in material). But, if the problem is say the ECM, then you are looking at probably $700 or so for a new computer. A professional shop will have the instrumentation to diagnose it properly. At work I have access to stuff that I could probably make work, but a shop will be able to take their computer and in a matter of a few minutes confirm the misfire.

As for limp mode, I would highly doubt you will fall into that since the check engine light is not lit for something related to a misfire or a lean condition with the engine.

 

Ok, last question, I promise, should I take it to a Jaguar dealer or will any professional shop do?

 

Ken, for something like this, I would think that any quality shop that is familiar with Jags or European cars should be able to fix this. Granted, based on the engine, even taking it to say a Ford/Lincoln dealership would work too (same engine is used in the Lincoln LS with a few changes to the motor).

I just would not recommend "Vinny's We Fix" shop. They probably don't see vehicles like this and would probably look at your car like it is a flying unicorn. Go with a quality shop and you will be far, far ahead in your repair.

 

You're not going to believe this (or maybe you will). I took it back to the dealer and it turned out to be loose air hose. I originally thought the problem was air related because the car felt like it was stalling and I could smell the car running rich but the problem codes threw me off. Thank God it wasn't a serious problem! The check engine light did come back though, but the car is not shaking and is running great. I'll give it a tune up and see how it does. Thanks for putting up with me!

 

Ken, get the new codes and lets take it from there. I have a really hard time imagining that a loose air hose was the cause for the P1638 code. I will believe that the car is running better with the hose tightened up. But, I have been wrong before. Lets start from a new beginning point and take it from there.

 

Good point. When I tried starting my car this morning, it first made a loud noise I had to try a second time to start successfully. Also, I noticed that my radio settings were reset. I will get the codes read again.

 

Ok so I got the codes read again and there are only two. Before there were several but whenever I got them read the staff at Autozone would focus on code p1638. Now the codes left are p1647 and p1000. I had them double check to ensure these would be the only two codes left.

 

Ken, based on the P1647 code, your bank 2 upstream O2 sensor has bitten the dust. Not the easiest to get to, but with some work, you can change it out yourself for around $100. The P1000 is simply saying that the codes have been recently received or recently cleared and the car has not been driven far enough to get a satisfactory set of readings. So, it is nothing to worry about.

 

Thanks for all your help and patience!