I am looking at buying an X type as a daily driver while i restore an old XJ6.

Are the X types reliable vehicles?

Is there anything to look out for?

Do they normally **** out at a certain mileage?

 

From my limited experience.
Not counting style and history they are no better or worse than most other cars. Thousands of them here in the Uk and we have the advantage of the diesel engine ones so lots of workshop knowhow as the engine gearbox combination is also common to a zillion transit vans and a multitude of London taxis. I believe the AWD models throw up a few problems at high mileage if not serviced well.

The overrider is "THEY ARE JAGS AND A GREAT DRIVE"

 

Mad Hatter, I drove mine out to 188K miles with no major issues (biggest being more than normal maintenance on the rear brakes, but easy work each time). the thing that seems to determine whether the car will go forever or last hardly at all is the transfer case. But, by this time in the car's life, if the transfer case was going to be an issue, it already has been. With that being said, if you drive it like a bat out of hell light to light, don't plan on the car lasting too long (granted, most cars won't). You drive sensibly, you can easily get the car out to 300K miles.

If you were to have to look out for a few things, I would say to take it for a test drive and see if you hear a grinding sound coming from the front end (normally means the transfer case is about to go). Next, after the drive, run you hand by all 4 tires. They should be warm and all about the same temp. If you have a rear that is really hot, it has a bad e-brake lever. Along those same lines, engage the e-brake just before the drive. Pay attention to how easy the e-brake is to engage. It should come up slightly and then slowly get harder and harder. If you can pull it pretty much to the top with little effort, again, you have a bad e-brake lever (these tend to rust up and remain engaged, causing the brakes to remain engaged during normal driving).

The e-brake is an easy fix (new caliper) and can be used to knock money off of the car as it will need immediate repairs. Easy work. I have a write up on the issue and a few fixes for it to. Just a matter of which way you want to go.

If you have more questions, let us know.

 

They are great cars if maintenance is kept up. Find one with no lights on and no weird noise from the drive train. Change the fluids when you get it and you should be good. Any issues that come up most likely have been discussed here and there are a lot of friendly helpful people on here willing to help you out. At worst, chances are it will probably still be more reliable than the XJ6 you are restoring.

Good luck!

 

The XJ6 has a 350sbc i rebuilt myself with 6,000 miles on it 😂 it will be bulletproof.

Thanks for the comments guys. This will be the "sensible" vehicle in my vehicle to please the gf. Between the full restore of the XJ6 and the full restore of my Ducati Monster, i just want one i can drive with no issues.

 

Hi the tip on the E/hand brake is a good idea.
Better one is to make a habit of when you are stopping the car and on the flat, Just take your foot off the brake and let the car stop it's self. Even a slightly grabbing brake will give that little jerk instead of a smooth stop.

Rolls Royce on their chauffeur driving course teach this. They say that your passenger in the back reading his newspaper should not be able to tell the car has stopped. Not always possible of course but a good thing to practice.

Should have been a grease nipple on that brake lever of course.

 

I owned my '04 X Type for a year, and sold it only because we had too many cars. It was a great driver and nice interior. As you're in road salt country, rust is going to be an issue; be sure to get a prospect car up on a lift for inspection. Change all the fluids if you buy one, as they were probably never touched by PO(s). Transmission drain-and-fills are relatively easy; transfer case and differential not so much. Search forum and you'll see several threads for help.

 

In my opinion choose a model after 2004. Most problems were solved by this point. And be sure that the previous owner(s) solved common and known problems and to do regular care.

In restrospect, I love mine but I would have bought a later model had I more knowledge. However, in continental Europe you will find 90 % diesel models.

Parts are easy to find too, except for interior fittings.

 

Mad Hatter, I am going to go into more detail about what Solar was eluding to. IN early 2004, Jaguar changed the transfer case that they were using. The earlier design has a viscous coupler in it that ensured that the front and rear maintained power at all times. In the redesign, they got rid of that viscous coupler. So, while all wheels still get power, the transfer case is now an "open differential" design. What this in short means is once a wheel looses traction, it will suck up all the engine power unless something limits it. This is where getting a newer car, ensuring you have the "DSC" (dynamic Stability Control) button on the center console will be a necessary thing. If the car doesn't have it, you will just have to remember that when you are in a slippery situation, you will need to ride the brakes a little bit to keep the wheel speeds in check. This is where if you look on the car, you will see a lot of the parts with a part number beginning in "4X43" if you have the later "redesign" car. If you see everything with "1x43" part number beginnings, then you have the earlier cars. In short, cars built after March 2004 are the redesign cars. I have found a few oddities out there, but that is a fairly reliable date to use.

 

Yeah thanks for the info. I am trying to look at my options right now. I am looking at the X type, the XJ8, and the XF.

Preferably, I would buy an XJ8 as it is rear wheel drive, v8, and has a longer wheelbase. I just need to see what I can get a good deal on.

 

I keep contacting dealers that are advertising x types and both of the ones that I have called on the dealers have told me that there is nothing wrong with the car and to come sign papers on it. I tell them to do a thorough inspection on it before I come waste my time looking at it. Both times they have called me back and told me that after a further inspection that the engines needed to be rebuilt.

Both of these cars had suffered head gasket failure, and one of them a crack in the head. Is this a common problem on these cars? I am having a third dealer do an inspection on an X type right now, I am starting to get wary of these things. ( at least the dealers have been honest with me )

 

Just me, but I'd never ask a selling dealer to "do an inspection." If they've got a car that I'm interested in, I'm taking it to another shop for a PPI I pay for myself.

 

Out of state situation, I am not going to drive 6 hours + to do an inspection on every car im intersted in.

 

Third dealer came back and told me that the rear wheel speed sensors are throwing codes. In addition, the engine is throwing a lean on bank 1 code.
The other things to note are that the front struts are making noise ( i imagine that would be the springs not the struts ), it needs brake pads, and the air bag light is flashing ( i don't know what code ).

Codes thrown:
P0171
C1165
C1175
P1111

The biggest concern here to me is obviously the lean code. I did read that the computer can make up for it automatically up to a certain range, still doesn't make me feel easy buying it like that. Any thoughts on what the potential causes for that code are? And whether or not the computers in the car have prevented damage from lean conditions or not?

 

The seller must solve these problems before selling.

I'm not very well-versed in mechanic but the faulty component on the lean code may be found only after a thorough inspection. You'd better want to leave this to a mechanic.

About the codes, there's a link to download the Jaguar software JITS. Check the sticky topics of the forum! It may help you.

BTW, what MY is this one? When was it built?

 

Springs don't make noise; it's the struts themselves, strut mounts, ball joints or something else.

If it needs brake pads the rotors are prolly shot too. Brake job by itself is fairly easy DIY, but this car has a lot of issues.

Flashing SRS (air bag) light itself would cause me to walk away. I recommend you do the same.

 

Where are you looking/finding these cars? TWO for sale by dealers that have head gasket failures? One with a flashing airbag code and two bad wheel speed sensors? What reputable company would sell something like that other than if it was advertised as having problems and really cheap price because of it. And, no, head gasket failures are not common on these cars unless driven while overheated like any other car.

The wheel speed sensors aren't that big of a deal and the lean code is probably a simple vacuum leak and could be addressed probably very easily and cheaply. But the airbag, that could be pretty tricky and costly. The suspension stuff, that could be expected if you are looking at an early car, like a 2002. That car is 15 years old and stuff is just going to start wearing out.

I kind of got the impression you might be looking at something that might need a little TLC and you are willing to deal with that. Not sure how much time/money you are looking to invest, but there are a lot of them around that are in good shape and are cheap. Probably not a ton of them close to Springfield, but if you're willing to travel something will turn up. Just my two cents, but I would keep looking.

 

These were cars that were listed as perfect and $4k - $5k. I told them each I would have to drive several hours each to get to the car to inspect it myself before I would be interested in buying it. I insisted that if they didn't want to waste my time and theirs that they would do a thorough inspection on it before I did. Because if they weren't going to do one then I would bring a jack and jackstand and go through every bolt on the ****ers myself. All three of the dealerships I contacted gladly did their own inspection and brought me back the results.

They would try to present this information to me in the most innocent way possible but I could read between the lines. For example, on one car they called me back and told me that the timing cover gasket was leaking, and the exhaust had a sweet smell to it. I told them that meant that coolant was making its way into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. They still insisted that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle. Another one of the vehicles wasn't firing on all 6, not sure if it was an ignition, fuel, or air issue, but it wasn't capable of making its way from the back of the lot to the front of the lot according to them. I figure if its not capable of that the engine is best considered a write off.

Cars for Sale: Used 2005 Jaguar X-TYPE 2.5 Sedan for sale in Saint Louis, MO 63116: Sedan Details - 428896880 - Autotrader

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...7316/overview/


These were not the websites I found the cars on, but what was easiest to find them on again in google.

And I don't really agree with the other members that seem to be implying that if the car has any mechanical maintenance needed then it is not worth purchasing. Just negotiate the price and go fix the issue with the car, it's not a big deal. I am literally welding the frame together in my jag right now, I have already cut almost all of the electrical harness out of the car and am creating one of my own. Not to mention I pulled the engine and trans and rebuilt them both myself within a week of purchasing the car. Had them back in the car the afternoon i finished the rebuild and drove it home that night.

 

Man, hard to believe places like that can stay in business. Kind of sad really. That one at that independent looks like it was painted poorly and the steering wheel did not match the dash wood. The other one at the Cadillac dealer is a very rare model if what they said is true. 2005 was the last year for the 3.0 manual and I believe all of them were the sport models. Probably less than 1000 of them were sold that year. Extremely hard to find. Looks like it had some nice aftermarket wheels too. I wouldn't think that a franchised dealer would even want to deal with a car worth that little with those kind of issues/ let alone try and minimize them. Would have thought they would wholesale that out.

Good luck in your search.

 

According to the carfax reports they are buying these at auction, not even like they are trade ins. They know what problems they have, but are selling them as perfect vehicles regardless.

Also, I can confirm that according to the carfax report on it, it is a 2005 5spd 3.0 manual