Catalytic Converter Saga
Just want to post this up for reference for anyone that falls into this issue. Was quite the ride. I searched high and low and found absolutely no help. So for the next guy, here ya go
. Hope this is the shining light you're looking for.
From what I have found in my research is that around 60k the cats commonly fail on the XE V-6 and F-Type V-6. They get replaced and fail again... every 60k. I have spoken to several folks about this and techs as well. I guess the cats are too undersized and/or too close to the manifold. This is on a stock / factory tune. Nothing crazy. I'm sure there are folks out there that have luck on them.. but every AJ126 f-type / XE owner I spoke to had a MIL and went in for repair and they "replaced the cats at no cost"
The dealer wanted to order this and replace. But due to massive back-orders (I WoNdEr WhY) they were going to take a while. And my local dealer was going to force me to pay for the cats at a tune of $3k+. I argued till I was blue in the face. NOPE. "the cats are a consumeable" lol. money grab. I honestly don't want anyone touching the car anyway.
I snagged some sport 300cell cats from Velocity and installed. SOUNDS AMAZING.
THIS IS A TRACK CAR!! Track day have fun toy. EPA BE GONE! lol. The following information is for off-road use. track car usage only.
I have 2 options. disable the 4 rear O2 checks in tune or trick the ECU. BOTH options will remove the MIL form the dash. Only one will pass emissions / smog checks. Both preform the same.
The MIL illuminated and was failing checks. installed O2 defoulers and still failed. Tried several types of defoulers and the ECU and O2 sensors are very sensitive. Used these and it worked. Use an air hammer to nudge the heat shield up 1/2" to make room for bank 2 sensor 3. Drivers side is bank 1 Passenger side is bank 2.
The ECU passes all checks and the car preforms just like from factory... only with cats that will last longer than 60k miles.. sound better... and are less expensive than factory cats.
I'm pretty sure there is a check in the ECU that if you have issues with emissions systems it will cut power on the top end. I cannot find it in the ECU so I can't prove it. But it felt like power up top was gutted till this was fixed.
Do NOT drop O2 sensors. or use rattle guns or even standard drills to remove or install O2 sensors.
From melting some O2 sensors at Road Atlanta... Here's my take. JLR sensors cost $300+ / sensor OR you can use the NTK sensor from your local part shop. I have confirmed those work just as well. and are ~$110. And with having 6 of these babies, it's a well needed break.
cheers!
-Crackberries
. Hope this is the shining light you're looking for.From what I have found in my research is that around 60k the cats commonly fail on the XE V-6 and F-Type V-6. They get replaced and fail again... every 60k. I have spoken to several folks about this and techs as well. I guess the cats are too undersized and/or too close to the manifold. This is on a stock / factory tune. Nothing crazy. I'm sure there are folks out there that have luck on them.. but every AJ126 f-type / XE owner I spoke to had a MIL and went in for repair and they "replaced the cats at no cost"
The dealer wanted to order this and replace. But due to massive back-orders (I WoNdEr WhY) they were going to take a while. And my local dealer was going to force me to pay for the cats at a tune of $3k+. I argued till I was blue in the face. NOPE. "the cats are a consumeable" lol. money grab. I honestly don't want anyone touching the car anyway.
I snagged some sport 300cell cats from Velocity and installed. SOUNDS AMAZING.
THIS IS A TRACK CAR!! Track day have fun toy. EPA BE GONE! lol. The following information is for off-road use. track car usage only.
I have 2 options. disable the 4 rear O2 checks in tune or trick the ECU. BOTH options will remove the MIL form the dash. Only one will pass emissions / smog checks. Both preform the same.
The MIL illuminated and was failing checks. installed O2 defoulers and still failed. Tried several types of defoulers and the ECU and O2 sensors are very sensitive. Used these and it worked. Use an air hammer to nudge the heat shield up 1/2" to make room for bank 2 sensor 3. Drivers side is bank 1 Passenger side is bank 2.
The ECU passes all checks and the car preforms just like from factory... only with cats that will last longer than 60k miles.. sound better... and are less expensive than factory cats.
I'm pretty sure there is a check in the ECU that if you have issues with emissions systems it will cut power on the top end. I cannot find it in the ECU so I can't prove it. But it felt like power up top was gutted till this was fixed.
Do NOT drop O2 sensors. or use rattle guns or even standard drills to remove or install O2 sensors.
From melting some O2 sensors at Road Atlanta... Here's my take. JLR sensors cost $300+ / sensor OR you can use the NTK sensor from your local part shop. I have confirmed those work just as well. and are ~$110. And with having 6 of these babies, it's a well needed break.
cheers!
-Crackberries
Guess I'm lucky, with 80k miles on my V6S F-type. But even with the VAP tune, I rarely drive it like I stole it, which probably helps. Tracked it twice, but that was a long time ago.
I'm sure the high RPM and WOT 100% killed mine. And the dealership knew it was a track car when it came out of the racing trailer lol. I was screwed when that happened. lol.
here's a short vid of the short track over there. *this specific track event is what killed the cats*
here's a short vid of the short track over there. *this specific track event is what killed the cats*
Last edited by Crackberries; Mar 10, 2023 at 09:08 AM.
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