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I'm in the middle of the rebuild and as expected I did snapped on of the main bearing M8 bolts. I contacted ARP bolts and they were no help so I send another request to them since it all depends on the person who you are talking to. Any ideas on where to get them?
The cranks are similar, but you need to check what the numbers are on your crank pulley bolts. Some are left hand threaded and some are right. Just double check that and you should be fine.
Check out this video from Atlantic British (around 28:16)
I'm in the middle of the rebuild and as expected I did snapped on of the main bearing M8 bolts. I contacted ARP bolts and they were no help so I send another request to them since it all depends on the person who you are talking to. Any ideas on where to get them?
I had to scour everywhere. However, I found I could order directly from ARP as long as I knew exactly what I wanted, or I found TH Motorsports stocked a pretty good selection. ( https://thmotorsports.com ) When it came to the main M10 studs, I found eBay was pretty much my only option. Although, I think I actually found the set that fit at TH Motorsports too...I just got lucky. Oddly, @davetibbs used 4.75" long studs, and I think I finally settled on 4" long studs. Must be a slight casting difference. I recommend measuring once you get everything apart then ordering from there.
I believe the part numbers I used are:
M10 studs: AM4.000-1LB (I think @davetibbs used AM4.750-2LB)
M8 main bolts: 661-1014
M8 side bolts: 661-1007
Thank you so much for replaying, I was able to order the M8 bolts with the above parts number 661-1014 but it looks like that the original is little bit longer, Is that normal ? did anyone experience issues after torquing the bolts ? do you know the torque spec for it, also if you know the piston ring orientation? Thank you very much in advance for you help.
Hey Dave, haven’t heard/ seen any new content from you lately. Was wondering if I could ask if you knew the exact specs of the pistons you had purchased from Mahle? I will be having to pull mine due to some significant issues. I would like to install some forged ones in and you were the first person to come to mind. Not sure if you will ever see this but any information would help more than you’ll ever know. Thanks.
Thank you so much for replaying, I was able to order the M8 bolts with the above parts number 661-1014 but it looks like that the original is little bit longer, Is that normal ? did anyone experience issues after torquing the bolts ? do you know the torque spec for it, also if you know the piston ring orientation? Thank you very much in advance for you help.
Sorry, I didn’t see this sooner, but yes, the bolts are slightly different in length. However, the shoulder on the ARP bolt prevents it from seating further than necessary. The new bolt meets the “rule of thumb” as far as a steel bolt into aluminum and how much thread grab is needed.
with that said, I had to have my block line honed because the torque specs for the ARP are higher than the OE stuff, it’ll deform the roundness of your main journals. That said, my machinist said it really wasn’t too bad. Let me stress that if you don’t do thing, you’re going to create excess friction where there shouldn’t be any and you could run into issues rather quickly into the service life of the engine.
the torque spec for the ARP bolts should have come with them. If not, ARP should be able to provide it to you. Sorry, I’m not near my engine right now, and I can’t remember the exact spec off the top of my head…plus it’s always a good practice to look it up…even if you think you know it.
as for piston ring orientation, I didn’t really find anything in the manual about it. However, I’m away from my computer and on my phone, so I can’t really dig too much. The rule of thumb I’ve always used is at least 90 degrees between the ring gaps if at all possible.
