Hi, I have problem with my 2014 Jaguar XF. I can't close any door using pilot or buttons inside the car. When I leave a car press the button doors won't lock and the car beep twice. Only trunk is closing and opening. I went to the ASO and they check all systems all sensors and everything is ok. Diagnostics does not show any errors.
Does anyone have any idea what happened?

 

If you've still got both key fobs, do you have the same symptoms with either? Just trying to eliminate the key fob as the problem since there are known issues with worn battery contacts. If you've used one fob exclusively and put the other away as a spare, its likely that your primary fob could be quite worn.

 

Yes. The same issue on both key fob. the service said that maybe something was partially decoded. Is it possible? I think its impossible. the car fires, the key is detected, the boot opens and closes, the alarm works. Only the door does not work.

 

Sounds like one of the door lock actuators. They are prone to failure. Although you can usually get a code on the diagnostics system that shows you if one of them is faulty

If you sit in the car with the doors all closed and press the central locking button to lock and unlock the car a few times do all four of the silver locks on the doors move every time?

 

 

Unfortunately I think it's just guess work for us to offer suggestions over the forum. There is a set of diagnostic tests that the dealer will need to run - anything from fuses to a damaged wiring harness to issues with the c locking controller. Suggest you take it to an experienced LR tech and have them do the root cause problem solving. Else you might throw expensive parts at it

 

did you get any resolution on your lock issue? I need help. Everything was working fine on mine until 2 days ago. I still had the original battery, so decided to preemptively swap out for a new battery. Same kind and rating. since installing the new battery i am unable to lock or unlock the car with remote, or door or console buttons. I have tried disconnecting for a while and reconnecting the battery but that did nothing. I have reset all the original settings but nothing. I had no issues prior to this new battery. for reference, the fob will still activate the lights and panic,and if i press the unlock part the daytime lights come on as usual, but nothing for the door locks except the dreaded double friggin' beep! All fuses are ok and nothing is loose...
if anyone has any advice please let me know. I dread a dealer visit for something like door lock reset...

 

Try sitting inside the car and starting the engine. Does that work? If so key fob is paired correctly

What is the voltage across the battery with the engine off? Possible that the new battery is relatively discharged and not strong enough to move a stiff lock actuator. Should be around 12.6V or above. If not the trickle charge (or do a long drive) and try again.

Do you get any errors like trunk/ hood open when you start the car? Sometimes it thinks a door / trunk or hood isn't closed properly.

Then try using the silver lock latch on the driver door to repeatedly lock and unlock the doors. Do all 3 other latches move correctly?

Open and slam the trunk. Do the same with the hood

Now try again from outside with the fob

If it works now then one of the door lock actuators is failing and is intermittent

If it still doesn't work, pull the codes. That will tel you which one is failing

At the same time change the keyfob battery to eliminate that issue

 

thanks for the reply

I am officially stumped...

 

Yes. I solved my problem. It turned out that the main signal control module is faulty. This is supposedly some kind of box which can not be repaired because it is programmed for a specific car during production.
I had to order a new one that was programmed at the Jaguar headquarters.
They also had to program the keys to the new mailbox from scratch.
Now everything works fine. The whole repair took about 3 weeks. I waited 16 days for a new module and then 2 days for assembly and programming.
Everything has been repaired under the warranty.

 

I can only wish the engineers at car companies would be allowed to design these cars to be more easily repairable and less finicky. As someone that has an electrical engineer and computer programming background that designed and built complex automotive projects that included creating these types of "control modules," I know that this stupid need to program modules to a specific car is unnecessary, that the car could do a much better job of telling you what's wrong without a need for specialist, and that the fact that modern cars are not resilient when it comes to things like the battery/electrical condition that results in all sorts of weird symptoms is all just bad engineering that is caused by the bean counters. It's always been this way in car design, so I know it's a hopeless wish.

 

Do you happen to know the control module they replaced? I am only seeing one on the basic schematic related to locks and alarm. # C2D44410.

 

Battery saga update:
So I had to break down and drop off at the dealer, since nothing I tried helped with the locking issue. They diagnosed it as the central locking module C2D44410. I was able to work them down slightly on the module price and labor, but this turned out to be the most expensive battery replacement I have heard of, by far.

The thing is, I didn't do anything wrong that I can tell. I disconnected pos first, then ground, never arc'd the posts and yet, the module still failed. What a bummer.
I think if I need to disconnect battery again, next time I will hook up a DC source first so nothing loses power,unless I actually need to lose power (depends on what you're working on I suppose. I talked with the service tech, who actually said they leave the car running, then disconnect and replace on their own vehicles.
I don't know which method is better, I'm just glad I can now lock the darn car again.

 

do u mind if I ask what the bill was for this as I'm reading through this thread hoping there was a fix that didn't involve the dealership, its looking an awful lot like im SOL and will be taking my 2013 to the dealership with the exact issue u both have been talking about
just want to kind get an idea of what these donkeys are going to be charging me?

 

This tread is over 3yrs old, when little was known about this problem.
Here's the TSB...