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I’m looking for some advice and hoping that someone can help me out!
Ive joined the RP club 🤨 when accelerating hard and above 3000RPM she goes into RP,
switch engine off for 10 mins and it resets its self,
after doing a lot of digging on Jag forums and finding similar problems as mine i decided to remove the actuator located In front of the sump and replaced the actuator valve that seems to be the main culprit.
put it all back together took her for a drive and RP again! 🤨 plugged the car scanner in and the following codes came up:
P22D2- inlet valve- valve stuck open
P0235- boost pressure sensor A - circuit malfunction
P00BD- MAF sensor A
P22CF- TC inlet valve - control circuit open
Is this on a first generation (2007-2015) or second generation (2015 onwards) XF? Please advise and I'll move your question to the appropriate model forum.
A complication is that modern Jaguars use extended diagnostic codes. The addiitonal two characters usually give more targetted troubleshooting detail but it requires Jaguar Diagnostics (SDD) or equivalent to read these.
Is this on a first generation (2007-2015) or second generation (2015 onwards) XF? Please advise and I'll move your question to the appropriate model forum.
A complication is that modern Jaguars use extended diagnostic codes. The addiitonal two characters usually give more targetted troubleshooting detail but it requires Jaguar Diagnostics (SDD) or equivalent to read these.
Graham
Hi Graham,
sorry forgot to say this is a 2009 model XF
thanks
Last edited by GGG; Jul 8, 2020 at 05:41 AM.
Reason: Add end QUOTE code
Going through the Workshop Manual, the common cause between this error collection seems to be "suspect turbine intake solenoid stuck open".
Graham
ok great stuff! Does this seem to be a common fault on these models? Would make sense as that was the only thing left to check.
when I have the valve off everything seemed to working ok but it was the first time I’ve done that so I’m still learning with it all, I like to get stuck in and learn about the way things work
I was hoping other members would have jumped in as I'm not familiar with this model. In the absence of volunteers (), here's the Electronic Engine Controls section from the Workshop Manual:
The most likely candidates appear on the third page - see items 8 and 15.
Could be loosing pressure from the manifold to what i was told.
my jag does the same but only when its cold. If i have driven for 10 to 15 mins with my foot up. Then, after if i put my foot down the RP does not come up. So i have decided that i will leave it and not get it fixed.
Also noticed that just before the RP, when it happens, feels like the car hesitates to go gear up and stuck on 3 or 4th gear. I feel that the inability to go up geat caused the RP on mine.
Seems that you could also have a fault with both the MAP and the MAF sensors. You should investigate those, it could be faulty sensors, corroded connections, a broken wire or even a faulty ECU (tho this seems the least likely atm). I suspect you will retain the RP error until they are fixed because the engine doesn't know how much air its taking in and struggling to get the fuel+air mix correct. This will manifest itself in two ways:
Cold start: The engine will be in open loop mode and relying on the MAF and MAP sensors to guess the right fuel+air mix. The idle will be higher than normal and probably a bit rough. If you try to drive immediately, and put your foot down, the engine can misfire because of the incorrect fuel+air mix, the ECU won't know why so it will throw the car into RP mode. RP is basically the ECU's fail safe of "the engine is doing something I didn't expect - I need help"
Warm engine: Once the O2 sensors have warmed up (usually 1-2mins) then the car will go into closed loop and it will be able to adjust the fuel in based on the O2 readings, the MAP and MAF sensors are less influential at this point. If you left the car idle from start you'll notice the rev's drop when it goes to closed loop. The ECU is compensating for the MAP and MAF issues by using the O2 data. However this is imperfect because the O2 data is post burn so there is a lag between the burn and O2 sensor reporting back to the ECU, so the ECU is altering the fuel-air mix based on what just happened in the engine and not what the ECU is asking the engine to do. Whilst driving at consistent low rpm then the time delay, and rate of change, between fuel+air in and burn out is lower and the ECU can manage this within its tolerances, but you will have reduced engine performance and efficiency because the mix will be ever so slightly off. If you put your foot down and take it to high revs then there is a lot more air being drawn into the engine very quickly, the tiny delay in the O2 sensors telling the ECU what just happened will be material and the data from the MAP and MAF sensors has a greater influence on ECU calculations. Since your MAP and MAF sensors look like they might be giving you duff data the ECU will make incorrect calculations and put in the incorrect amount of fuel, so you will find that the engine hesitates and/or misfires under heavy load/high RPM. If these fall outside of the ECU tolerances it will throw the car into RP mode.
The above is worse on cold days, e.g. close to freezing, as the air density increases compared to milder days and that changes the amount of fuel needed to be injected, if the ECU isn't getting good data from the MAF and MAP then its calculations get even more off when there's denser air being thrown in.
You should get an OBDII dongle and check the readings from the MAP, MAF, O2 sensors and the fuel trims to see if its doing what it should.
Seems that you could also have a fault with both the MAP and the MAF sensors. You should investigate those, it could be faulty sensors, corroded connections, a broken wire or even a faulty ECU (tho this seems the least likely atm). I suspect you will retain the RP error until they are fixed because the engine doesn't know how much air its taking in and struggling to get the fuel+air mix correct. This will manifest itself in two ways:
Cold start: The engine will be in open loop mode and relying on the MAF and MAP sensors to guess the right fuel+air mix. The idle will be higher than normal and probably a bit rough. If you try to drive immediately, and put your foot down, the engine can misfire because of the incorrect fuel+air mix, the ECU won't know why so it will throw the car into RP mode. RP is basically the ECU's fail safe of "the engine is doing something I didn't expect - I need help"
Warm engine: Once the O2 sensors have warmed up (usually 1-2mins) then the car will go into closed loop and it will be able to adjust the fuel in based on the O2 readings, the MAP and MAF sensors are less influential at this point. If you left the car idle from start you'll notice the rev's drop when it goes to closed loop. The ECU is compensating for the MAP and MAF issues by using the O2 data. However this is imperfect because the O2 data is post burn so there is a lag between the burn and O2 sensor reporting back to the ECU, so the ECU is altering the fuel-air mix based on what just happened in the engine and not what the ECU is asking the engine to do. Whilst driving at consistent low rpm then the time delay, and rate of change, between fuel+air in and burn out is lower and the ECU can manage this within its tolerances, but you will have reduced engine performance and efficiency because the mix will be ever so slightly off. If you put your foot down and take it to high revs then there is a lot more air being drawn into the engine very quickly, the tiny delay in the O2 sensors telling the ECU what just happened will be material and the data from the MAP and MAF sensors has a greater influence on ECU calculations. Since your MAP and MAF sensors look like they might be giving you duff data the ECU will make incorrect calculations and put in the incorrect amount of fuel, so you will find that the engine hesitates and/or misfires under heavy load/high RPM. If these fall outside of the ECU tolerances it will throw the car into RP mode.
The above is worse on cold days, e.g. close to freezing, as the air density increases compared to milder days and that changes the amount of fuel needed to be injected, if the ECU isn't getting good data from the MAF and MAP then its calculations get even more off when there's denser air being thrown in.
You should get an OBDII dongle and check the readings from the MAP, MAF, O2 sensors and the fuel trims to see if its doing what it should.
Fivel amazing, you are the first person who has managed to give me an explanation that makes total sense.
i am not a mechanic but can follow instructions to do stuffs. Will check what you said and see how it goes.
I remember there was MAF error so will check that..
When this happened on mine it was a MAF sensor. But annoyingly it hadn't "failed" more that it was returning values within range but there was no relation between the readings being sent to the ECU and how much airflow there actually was.
I was in and out of a garage for about 6 months and no one could work out why it would RP only when it was really cold and hesitate at around 4500rpm. So I embarked on a long process of fiddling with it trying to work it out. I could see the fuel trims were struggling to keep the engine running smoothly, but the lack of a MAF error sent me on some roundabout journeys. I eventually discovered it was the MAF sensor when I sprayed in MAF sensor cleaner into the air intake. In bank 1 it caused the engine to almost stall (the expected result) because it interferes with the airflow reading, but in bank 2 it made no difference what so ever because the MAF just kept reporting reasonable, but inaccurate, results. Changed the MAF and most of the problems went away (I also discovered that the crankcase gasket was leaking oil into 2 spark plug wells - but that's another story).
Unfortunately, because it took so long to diagnose, I had been putting incorrectly burnt fuel through the cats and it had irreparably damaged them, which led to replacing them with the high-flows.
When this happened on mine it was a MAF sensor. But annoyingly it hadn't "failed" more that it was returning values within range but there was no relation between the readings being sent to the ECU and how much airflow there actually was.
I was in and out of a garage for about 6 months and no one could work out why it would RP only when it was really cold and hesitate at around 4500rpm. So I embarked on a long process of fiddling with it trying to work it out. I could see the fuel trims were struggling to keep the engine running smoothly, but the lack of a MAF error sent me on some roundabout journeys. I eventually discovered it was the MAF sensor when I sprayed in MAF sensor cleaner into the air intake. In bank 1 it caused the engine to almost stall (the expected result) because it interferes with the airflow reading, but in bank 2 it made no difference what so ever because the MAF just kept reporting reasonable, but inaccurate, results. Changed the MAF and most of the problems went away (I also discovered that the crankcase gasket was leaking oil into 2 spark plug wells - but that's another story).
Unfortunately, because it took so long to diagnose, I had been putting incorrectly burnt fuel through the cats and it had irreparably damaged them, which led to replacing them with the high-flows.
i will have a look at it next week. Maybe i will just clean the MAF to see if it helps. How difficult is it to change the MAF? Any1 know?
According to the manual your 2 sensors are fitted directly after the air filter.
i have cleaned my MAF sensor and made a huge difference.. my idle dropped to below 1k and more smooth acceleration now. Am just scared to put my foot down after cold start, in fear of RP..