I acknowledge that this decreases horsepower and the stock airbox and inlets are the best way to get cold air into the engine..... but the sound was soooooo boring

I've seen a few other open air intakes on the forum but most looked like they had removed the entire airbox and just left the new filter flopping around. I decided to purchase an additional pair of OEM airboxes so I can go back to stock if needed and cut them so they hold the air filter to the OEM mounts.







Love the sound. >

 

this is EXACTLY what I wanted to do! Thanks for sharing. Clean job too.

Part # for the filters?

 

Lovely job. I'm running the same filters on my setup.

Also, I'm not convinced it decreases horsepower - you just need to shield the filters as much as possible from the hot engine air, and get as much cold air to them. I tried to do this to an extent with some carbon fiber sheeting. Not particuarly pretty, but it does a good job:



I also recommend trying to get as much cold air to these filters as possible. I've done this by installing flexible piping behind the front bumper going to each filter box:


With a 3" subwoofer port in the front grille each side:


It sacrifices a small amount of airflow to the radiators, but given that it's on the inner edge of each vent, I think the loss of cooling is minimal.

 

Hey Dave,

I do have OBD logging so I can tell IAT and Manifold temps have increased. Yes at speed more cool air is blowing into the engine bay than when at a standstill but the stock boxes were accessing almost 100% "outside" air. I'm also in Phoenix so the heat is real. I'll go in for my final tune later this winter and kept the stock boxes so I could do a direct comparison so I guess we'll see.

Devil you want a pair of Ramair CC-296-UNI with the reducing rings. You only need the largest one but necessary for a perfect fit over MAF. Best pricing (shipping) I could find was ebay for $41. Happy to snag a few close up pics since the "lines" were critical to get the right angle of the dangle. And I owe you for the aux radiator info

 

Heh.

Re: IATs: yeah I think should still be resolvable by essentially extending the edges of the filter box you've chopped vertically until they contact the hood liner. That way you're creating a larger enclosed area that behaves like the filter box. I'm pretty envious of the job you did for the pipe entry into the filter box, as you can see mine is nowhere near as neat, so I might need to pick up a second pair to do it properly. If I can't get a good enough seal against the hood I might stick a perspex window on the top like our Mustang/Hellcat brethren seem to favor.

I also have some more ideas for getting additional cold air to them. Heatsoak when you're stuck in traffic is one thing, but giving it the beans at night when it's sub 60 F is somethng else...

 

I personally think the high IAT's are not from the intake pipes but from the inter-cooler setup due to the coolant loop from the radiator into the inter-coolers. With the surface area very high in the dual inter-coolers it would make sense to have high IAT if the 200 degree coolant is circulating in the bricks that are supposed to be cooling down the intake charge. IDK why they would design this that way, seems counterintuitive. I want to separate them completely from the coolant, use a killer chiller on the bricks, and insulate the intake manifold/SC from the engine heat with Aspen Aerogel thermal blanket on the underside of the intake manifold. For the intake pipe a ceramic coated metal pipe with aspen aerogel wrap should do the trick. If I can epoxy it to the pipe, I might coat the aerogel with Raptor truck liner to look stock and be durable. I have talked with a fabricator to make a water cooled intake manifold with Laminova dual pass inter-cooler with the killer chiller. I should be able to get below ambient air temp with that. Great thing is the car already has the pumps and heat exchangers to do all this, just need to fabricate the cooler and bolt the supercharger and killer chiller to it.

 

Agreed on the chargecooler circuit/coolant temps, I've already separated it off and am running 1/2" hoses to a 5 gallon coolant/ice tank in the trunk, along with relocating the chargecooler pump there.

I was running an in-tank bilge pump which seems to be what a lot of the drag/street racing lot do, but despite the flow rate these are not built for 100% duty cycles and I found it was overheating and blowing fuses. I've since switched to an Allstar pump mounted outside of the tank, which has a higher flow rate than the Bosch pump I'd upgraded to orignally.

Separating the circuit itself off was a piece of cake, just required a 16mm & 22mm "Coolant Bypass Cap" from HPS to blank off the output pipe on the coolant radiator and the input pipe of the chargecooler radiator, available on Amazon and .

 

I see you have pusher fans on the front of your charge cooler. Do you see a reduction in coolant temps from it? Have you done any work to excavate the pressure under the hood? Did you see drops in IAT with your rear tank setup?

I have some ideas to vent that pressure, It will be difficult because there is no room under the hood for airflow. I would like to delete the plastic insert in the side fender vents to allow for more air to vent through, and I want to perforate the hood in a Bugatti Concours de E'legance vent pattern vertically to vent the high air pressure from behind the radiator. Also removing the rubber seal on the back of the hood to allow for air flow out of there. There still is water drainage in the cowl so I am not worried about water getting in that way.

I wish I could jump headfirst into this project, but I just spent $7K on my race car getting it ready for some competition. Still have another $15K to go before it's competitive. My Jag is next but it looks like next year before I can really get some steam on my ideas.

 

That sound is awesome! I hate that you can't hear the supercharger on these cars. I mean.... I think that was on purpose, lol.

Also the coolant lines into the SC heat exchangers is likely for cold weather use. You want to get your IAT's to a reasonable temp when its 0 deg outside. No doubt if you live in a moderate climate you don't need that.

 

Have you thought about adding venturing ducts above the air filters?

 

No solid data on this so far, I'm currently looking at various setups so I can start accurately measuring this stuff. I could just read the OBD temps but I wanted to get a few different sensors installed to measure differentials etc.

This was my attempt, created by chopping up a fiberglass hood for a Camaro and bonding the vents into my hood. Currently painted in black Plastidip (lol) until I get the whole car wrapped. Obviously the Camaro hood was designed for looks rather than anything else so I can't really vouch for their effectiveness at pressure excavation. They wobble a noticeable amount at high speed, so there's definitely airflow, but I can't say any more than that. You can certainly see the heat shimmering from them in traffic, which was honestly my main motivation.


I've had to adapt the front-most vents on the hood to channel water away from the cone filters, but these are likely drawing air out rather than ducting it in I thought about getting air into the filters from the top but honestly couldn't think of a way of doing it that looked even remotely OK, and I appreciate even the vents on my hood above are not to everyone's taste. Honestly I think the best plan at this point would be trying to get more air into the factory cold air intakes.

 

BTW, just to provide some additional info on this: according to the workshop manual, Jaguar actually designed the supercharger cooling system to operate independently of engine cooling, despite the two circuits being connected.

My understanding from the manual is that the hose that connects the supercharger cooling circuit to the engine cooling circuit (this goes between two radiators) is actually supposed to separate the two with essentially an air bubble - that's what the (attached) overview section means when it says that it "accommodates thermal expansion and retraction of the coolant". I guess when both systems are under pressure the air bubble is maintained?

Whether this actually happens in reality is hard to say - I know that before I separated the circuits entirely the supercharger coolant hoses always seemed pretty hot to me

 

that hood is awesome. Nice work.

 

excellent idea. What did you do with the hoses that went to those ports. I plan on just the bypass and no extra tank. I guess hook those two hoses together somehow. That sound right. Thanks

 

So the coolant radiator outlet, which faces the front of the car (all other ports on the coolant rad face the back), and the supercharger radiator inlet port, are connected by the same compound S-shaped hose, I believe it's number 17 on this diagram:


I essentially just removed this hose, and blocked off the ports that were left open by it.

I think you'll need an expansion tank, because water tends to do that when it gets hot, although I agree the whole point of separating these circuits is that this should only really get "warm" - however, the key to getting effective heat transfer and cooling is having a large water capacity, because there's more water in the system to heat - so in the case of my setup (which I honestly think might be overkill, but whatever) having the extra capacity of even the hoses that run from the engine bay to the back of the car, along with the larger radiator at the front, not to mention the comparatively large tank in the rear adds quite a lot of capacity in that regard, so I'm presumably able to keep a lower supercharger coolant temp as a result.

I won't bother putting together a scrappy MS paint drawing of the flow but basically I have the pump mounted just outside the tank in the trunk,and then hose routes around the top the rear passenger wheel arch, along the passenger side sill and up into the engine bay, where there is a tap for a temp sensor before it splits into two to go into the inlet of each chargecooler brick, and then the outlets of these join into a single pipe into the top of the chargecooler radiator, and then the outlet from the bottom of the radiator goes to another tap for a temp sensor which operates the pusher fans and then runs all the way back to the tank in the trunk.

The only future modification to this I'm considering would be adding a killer chiller into the circuit, potentially also paired with electronic solenoids to bypass the radiator in the front if the KC is able to bring the supercharger coolant temp below ambient.

 

Thanks for the info. I have an 06 str with the 4.2 and it has a small diameter hose connecting the tank to the charger radiator so i think that will be good to tie the systems for expansion. Still thinking of putting an extra cooler up front behind the grill for either trans or supercharger. ZF says the trans is fine to run up to 120C but i would like to never see that. Thanks again

 

Ah yes, I missed your sig - apologies. I can't offer any advice on the 4.2's cooling system as I don't know it, however the 5.0 comes with a trans cooler as standard (basically a very standard looking heat-exchanger with some not-so-standard connections on top. I have a spare one I plan on cannibalizing so I can braze the connections onto a larger universal heat exchanger.

 

the 5.0 has a few more coolant hoses but essentially the same. I have a nice plate type cooler picked out and it has an8 fittings so install will be easy. Just waiting for a little cooler weather and less smoke here in central ca

 

I modified my air filter setup very similar to what Davetibbs did. Absolutely no regrets. The supercharger whine is LOUD.

 

Found an interesting site that validated all my ideas I posted and did them. So I am not the first to think of all this. Their applications are for the CTSV and Hellcat and other cars like that. They don't have a Jaguar application but they are too expensive anyway. I can get all that done here where I am.

https://fiinterchillers.com/
US Dealer of them
https://www.cspracing.com/interchiller-central/

They did a Killer chiller with the inter-coolers, they insulated the intake and supercharger from the engine heat with a heat shield blanket and even made isolation plates the supercharger sits on to remove the heat transfer. They even use a water injection. They said the block heat and the heat from the head heats up the snout, S/C and the chillers quite a bit. They got their intake temps from over 100F to lower than -7F idling. This is design validation. Spacers, Insulation, K/C and reservoirs. Man I would have been happy with 40F they got -7F. I'm sort of excited to get into this. I wish I had more money and fab skills. I need to finish my race car so I can get into this project. Actually I should do this on both.